Ok, so I decided to get the whole kit, front and back for my EG coupe. I was not without my share of problems, but it was incredibly worth it in the end!!
My car came with the OEM 19mm bar up front, and no bar in the back. This kit replaces the front with a 24mm bar, and adds a 19mm bar in back. IMO, I wouldn't skip out only doing one or the other. My car handles like a freakin go kart now with very little body roll. I am SO happy!! It is very forgiving, and so fun now, best suspension mod I ever did. Also, before I put these on, I used to rub the inside fender well with my 17's going around corners, and now I can't even get them to rub if I try!!! That alone makes the kit worth every penny. (Which wasn't too many pennies if I remeber correctly.)
One thing to note... They no longer make the gray powder coated color, now it's a VERY UGLY neon green.
To replace the front, you gotta disconnect the shifter and transmission linkages and the exhaust. And then you have to weasle the original bar out and weasle the new bar in, this takes a little patience, but it is not too hard and is well worth it.
The back's I did at the same time as my control arms. HIGHLY recommended to do at the same time, cause you gotta pull the struts off anyway. Just hard as hell to remove siezed bolts on the control arm. Need some good old P.B. Blaster and "Armstrong". Getting the end links together and connecting the control arms back to the rear frame require two people. Getting the bolt holes to line up is a pain in the ass!!!
MOST IMPORTANT PART!!! YOU CANNOT FORGET TO LUBE EVERYTHING VERY WELL!! Use the Energy Suspension formula 5 prelube or some high grade marine grease on every place where a bushing would touch metal. End links, pivot bushings, control arms, everything!! Your car will not sqeak if you do this part correctly.
[Edit] I have read that putting rear sway bars can put too much stress on your rear subframe and it's best to brace it somehow. I also purchased a Skunk2 rear lower tie bar for this exact reason, but now it no longer fits across the frame because the bushing brackets are in the way. To reinstall the tie bar, I will have to get spacers and longer bolts, but I'm not sure that it will still do it's job correctly, now being an extra 1/2" to 3/4" further from the frame. The other option could possibly be adding an ASR brace instead, but I'm not sure if it will work with this setup.
Performance - I cannot be more happy 11/10.
Install Difficulty - 7/10
Rear Driver Side:
Entire Back:
