[AznMuscle]

Originally Posted by bTAK

with a d15b7, your not going to want to go above 100 mph, or you risk early engine/transmission damage. in order to maximize the ability to access the power from a 1.5 liter, modded or stock, shorter gears have to be used. this means that your top speed will be reduced. with a 5 speed or auto tranny on a 1.5, going 120mph would have you way up in the mid 6000's or maybe higher (without a 6th gear to save you so u can drop the revs a little lower and cruise) and thats on a dx transmission! it would be worse with an ex/si. the faster you go, the more wind resistance that builds up, which means a lot more crap for your 1.5 to compensate for, and the faster you go, the worse it gets, and the harder it is for the engine to make power. going full throttle/top speed and hovering @ the shift point for prolonged periods of time is both stupid and impractical unless you have a built bottom end and some very well designed coated pistons built strictly for high revving N/A applications, and even then its still unsmart. only formula spec built racing engines are designed to handle prolonged rev times like those, but they too will wear out, just not as quick as a stock engine build under same conditions, but are built to at least tolerate a few top speed burns through long straights. do that enough times with your stock d and soon you'll be on here asking us whats the best engine swap. so just take it easy and keep it within a logical speed with respect to your current engine setup.

the d15b7 block can be used to build an engine with a compression of 11:1 using all oem parts. these would include a fresh d15b7 block, fresh d16y8 head, d16y8 head gasket (not 2 layer), i/h/e, and light flywheel... if its and EG then keep or use better obd1 compatible injectors, like the 88-95 si/ex (a6, z6) or 4age or 5mge oem toyota will work... but the engine MUST be tuned via wide band and standalone and the ecu rev limit will have to be pushed up another 1000. it also needs to be cooled by a proper spec oil cooler system, proper racing grade oil that resists dilution, separation and burn-off @ high rpm and a better radiator + stronger hoses are recommended.

match this engine in your dx (or just sell it and buy a manual) with an si/ex tranny, an ebay stage 1 or 2 clutch, a nice lowered suspension and slotted/drilled front rotors with new pads and now you have a decent 150 h/p-ish dx setup that will handle well enough, be quick, and last longer b/c the engine internals are cooled to help compensate, as long as it isnt drag raced and the power is used responsibly, tactfully and effectively. the power would be good for grip driving on hilly courses, auto-x and zippy town/county driving. but i agree with the other guys on this thread, leave it alone and learn the car through the suspension and modify that first, or at least get a manual tranny swapped.. then you'll have a better idea of where your @ and where you need the extra power. just don't abuse it

Very nice. I agree with the above statement, and agreeing with everyone, just take care of it, and drive it. Enjoy the gas milage (trust me), and you will be good. I you want to go fast, do it at the track. If you want to go fast at the track, either build a car for the track (rwd, awd, fwd, 4, 6, 8 cyl ect ect), or build your car for reliablilty and slight performance. Just read around here, and learn.