Guide To SuperCharging

[AcidLotus]

Guide to Supercharging
Modified from version originally written by Gvtec.


General Setup: what you need to get you boosting.
Please read thoroughly and see the FAQ for any definitions you are not sure about and to answer other questions you may have.

Basic components:

• JRSC kit
• One heat range colder plug
• High flow in-tank fuel pump (Walbro GSS-342)
• Dyno tuning

Optional components:

• Cartech 20005i FMU, Vortech SFMU, or another adjustable boost fuel pressure regulator
• Boost, A/F ratio, electrical (in car) & mechanical (under hood) fuel pressure gauge
• JR Map Controller
• Apex-i V-AFC

Comments on basic components:
One heat range colder plug helps aid in preventing detonation, as well as releasing heat from the cylinder into the head where coolant can get to it. The high flow fuel pump is recommended because the stock pump cannot flow the volume of fuel at the fuel pressures needed for long periods of time like a high flow pump can.

Comments on optional components:
These were chosen to compliment the supercharger and add even more reliability. The Cartech FMU is far superior to the JR FPR (fuel pressure regulator) in many ways, in addition to the fact that the JR FPR tends to go bad after a certain amount of time. The fuel pressure gauges will allow the tuner to dial in fuel pressure and the A/F ratio meter will allow the system to be monitored for a rich or lean condition. The Jackson Racing Map Controller also compliments the JRSC well in that it allow the engine to run rich, run more ignition timing, and prevents tip-in detonation.

Additional comments:
One of the most important aspects is dyno tuning! You didn’t spend a bunch of money on a supercharger just to bolt it on and have it run like crap and/or screw up your engine from running lean/detonating. Some dyno tuners require a V-AFC to tune the fuel curves, hence why it was added under the optional components.


Bolt-ons: What is needed to produce even more power.

• Everything included in the "General Setup"
• Short style intake
• Header
• Hi-flow cat
• Exhaust
• Adjustable cam sprockets
• Dyno tuning

Comments on Bolt-ons:
This is the area where you can extract another 10-25 WHP, on top of your "General setup." These items are not name brand specific and each one is optional.

• A short style ram intake produces the best power; Injen makes a great 3” SRI, as well as a cold air extension to get cooler air to the blower. There are also many generic intake manufacturers with 3” SRIs. The Comptech Ice Box also comes highly recommended, but is rather expensive, and may not fit your particular car. A high volume air filter is also suggested, like an oiled cotton element K&N.
• Regarding headers, two known power makers are the Hytech SC 4-1(expensive) with 3" collector or the Kamikaze 4-1. Both these headers have short primaries, which superchargers like. Even thought many Kamikaze users note that fitment is poor, the performance is a good bang for the buck. A trip to a muffler shop should resolve the fitment issues. The DC 4-2-1 will also work, might be particularly better at lower RPMs, but will not produce as many gains in higher RPMs as the other two mentioned.
• A high flow cat will also open up the exhaust stream. Carsound Cat, Catco and Random Tech are popular names. Make sure you know which cat you are getting, what comes with the cat (gasket/doughnut), is it the proper length, do the bolt holes line up on the flanges and on OBD II cars, where does the 2nd O2 sensor mount on the cat?
• The choice for exhaust is debatable. Usually exhaust choices center around the sound and how quiet or loud it is. One mainly wants a 2.5" (for 6psi) or 3" (For +6psi) diameter piping. APEX'i N1(loud), Thermal R&D(loud), or even a custom muffler shop job would work. Look for mandrel bends, a resonator and a straight through unrestricted muffler.
• Adjustable cam sprockets for DOHC engines are used to tune cam timing and dial out overlap (although experience will vary... some cars like more overlap). A cam gear for a SOHC engine won't yield as much performance gains, because one would be just shifting the cam timing and actual overlap would not be affected. All adjustable cam gears perform the same function, but have different options that set them apart. Brands differ by points of connection (the more the better), light weight material (less rotational mass = less parasitic drag), and etched degree markings are all found on a "good" set of adjustable cam gears.
• With some or all of these optional items in place, it's best to dyno tune the cam gears in place as the final modification. All the previous modifications affect the flow dynamics and tuning the cam gears lastly extracts the best possible gains.

Higher Boost Setup: more air = more power.

• Items mentioned in “General Setup” and some optional components in the "Bolt-on Setup"
• Smaller pulley or Stepper pulley
• 290cc Prelude injectors, or up to 370cc RC injectors.
• AEM FPR
• Dyno tuning

Comments on higher boost:

• Stock boost for the Integra LS and GSR, all civics, and all Preludes is 6LB and 5.5LB for the Integra Type-R. Eaton rates the blowers to produce power, until 10LB. Past 10LB, heat become excessive, detonation becomes prevalent, and power starts to fall off. There are three ways to raise boost levels. Smaller blower pulleys, ENDYN (and now others) stepper alternator pulleys, and/or larger crank pulley. For SOHC civics, only smaller blower pulleys or larger crank pulleys apply. The pulleys are not rated by boost levels, but rather diameters. Stock Integra GSR and Civic Si pulleys are 4" diameter. The 3.8" pulley produce about 8LB and the 3.6" produce close to 10LB. Stock Civic EX pulleys are 3.8”. It's a good idea to keep these numbers in mind, to know if you receive the correct item. These pulleys can be purchased from JR, ENDYN and others. This pulley will bolt onto the blower's nose and replace the current pulley. To swap the pulley, the blower has to be removed and this is time consuming. The ENDYN stepper pulley is rated to give 3LB more boost and replaces the alternator pulley. This install is said to be much easier and less timing consuming. Another perk is this pulley reduces belt slippage that a smaller blower pulley can sometimes cause.
• The maximum duty cycle for injectors 80%. Past 80%, the injectors tend to stick open or closed and no longer do their job. A larger set will allow the engine to run lower fuel pressure and have the ability to add more fuel. 290cc Prelude injectors will work very well with Hondas/Acuras with JRSCs, unless you already have a prelude, in which case you may opt for something between 290cc and 370cc. RC injectors are a very common name, however they are lucas disc type injectors, vs. stock Honda injectors which are pintle injectors. If you have a choice, look for pintle type injectors over and above lucas disc injectors. Be careful, the baseline fuel pressure will have to be lowered or you will foul your spark plugs.
• To lower the baseline pressure, the AEM FPR does the trick. This unit is preferred because it has variable diameter fuel return fittings and is a direct replacement to the OE unit. Units like the B&M demand for the tuner to modify the OE regulator which is time consuming and in some cases difficult.
• Once again, for best results... DYNO TUNE.

Project standalone: Building your own computer.

• RC 440cc injectors
• Engine management system
• Excessive dyno tuning

Comments on Project standalone:
Going to even a larger injector isn't necessarily done for more fuel, but for the duty cycle, in relation to being tuned with an engine management system. Engine management systems like AEM EMS, Hondata, EFI PMS(being discontinued), APEX'i Power FC, or Haltec, allow the tuner to create fuel and timing curves to address every area and need of their system. Both the AEM EMS and Hondata standalones are the more popular choices. Also, DSM 450 injectors are becoming popular because they run for about $50.00 for a set of 4, and only require a resistor pack and clips for them to operate in your Honda/Acura engine.
Expect a few hours to dyno tune this combination with a competent dyno tuner familiar with tuning your standalone ECU.

Links to more information (listed in order of appearance):

• www.jacksonracing.com Superchager kits
• www.ngksparkplugs.com , www.sparkplugs.com
• www.walbro.com
• Jim Helbing @ MotorVations Motorsports (205)-661-3600 can ship you the Cartech FMU, the Walbro fuel pumps, and a 9 PSI alternator stepper pulley for B series and possibly H series engines.
• www.vortechsuperchargers.com/accessories/fuel.html Vortech SFMU
• www.autometer.com various gauges, including boost, Air/Fuel
• www.bmracing.com underhood fuel pressure gauges, fuel pressure regulators
• www.jacksonracing.com/pages/partshonda.html SC components, including map controller
• www.apexi.com V-AFC, N1 exhausts, standalone ECU
• www.injen.com Air intakes
• www.comptechusa.com Air intakes
• www.dcsports.com Air intakes, Headers, Exhausts, etc.
• www.randomtechnology.com Catalytic converters
• www.theoldone.com Endyn: Blower pulleys, etc.
• www.rceng.com Fuel Injectors
• www.aempower.com Air intakes, standalone EMS, fuel pressure regulators, etc.
• www.hondata.com standalone ECU

Example prices:New prices listed, used prices less at www.ebay.com or www.thepartstrader.com. Most prices listed are approximately the lowest you will find them

• JRSC: Ranges from approx. $2400.00 - $3300.00
• Colder copper spark plugs: less than $20.00 for a set of 4.00. Look for NGK R5671A-8 or ZFR6F-11’s
• Walbro GSS-342 fuel pump: From $100.00
• Dyno tuning: average seems to be between $50.00 and $100.00 per hour. Wideband O2 option (recommended) is usually a flat $25.00 charge
• Cartech FMU: Ranges from $250.00 up.
• Higher boost blower and alternator pulleys: From $100.00 to $200.00
• Gauges: B&M underhood fuel pressure gauges around $30.00. Autometer Air/Fuel gauge and boost gauge average around $50.00 each. Autometer electric in cabin fuel pressure gauge $50.00 - $150.00.
• Jackson Racing Map Controller: From $135.00 - $200.00
• Apexi V-AFC: From $250.00 up
• Air Intakes: From $100.00 up
• Headers: From $245.00 up for Kamikaze. Hytech headers are significantly more.
• Exhausts: From $200.00 up
• Cam gear(s): From $100.00 up
• Standalone: from $350.00 up