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09-02-2007, 09:09 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Brand Spanking Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2007
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H22 Supercharged with nitrous
Hey,
My goal by the end of this year is to have my h22 supercharged with nitrous. I already gave a complete skunk2 valvetrain sitting in my room. I am just wondering what kind of cams and pistons would be good for both supercharge and nitrous. Is lower compression better or stock compression? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
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09-02-2007, 04:30 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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SH Titanium
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vienna WV
Posts: 339
Car: 91 CRX Si
Mods: JRSC high boost pulley 450 inj.
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No need to change piston and cams for the SC. Now mattering on the shot you using I would at least got with ARP head studs and some forged pistons. I also wouldnt rely on the JRSC FMU with all that.
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09-02-2007, 04:32 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Ninja Matsume
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lufkin, TX / Winter Park, FL
Posts: 3,897
Car: '01 Honda Accord LX 2.3, '90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Mods: Accord: SRI, EVO2 cat-back, and a few suprises....... Talon: 0-Broke in 3.2 secs
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FMU ftl, Standalone ftw 
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09-02-2007, 05:31 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Moderator
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It should be fairly well known that the H22s have weak ringlands, particularly when boosted or sprayed. However, I'm not familiar with how to resolve this issue, so you might look at new pistons and rods, or maybe a block guard.
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09-02-2007, 05:39 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Ninja Matsume
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lufkin, TX / Winter Park, FL
Posts: 3,897
Car: '01 Honda Accord LX 2.3, '90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Mods: Accord: SRI, EVO2 cat-back, and a few suprises....... Talon: 0-Broke in 3.2 secs
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by AcidLotus
It should be fairly well known that the H22s have weak ringlands, particularly when boosted or sprayed. However, I'm not familiar with how to resolve this issue, so you might look at new pistons and rods, or maybe a block guard.
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if he is going to be boosted, he would want to re-sleeve it to maintain reliability as well 
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09-03-2007, 07:00 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Brand Spanking Newbie
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Would hondata be able to run all of that? Or would I have to get something else. I'm planning on running a 50 or 75 shot of nitrous. Also I was thinking about getting the block sleeved, is that needed?
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09-03-2007, 10:13 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Ninja Matsume
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lufkin, TX / Winter Park, FL
Posts: 3,897
Car: '01 Honda Accord LX 2.3, '90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Mods: Accord: SRI, EVO2 cat-back, and a few suprises....... Talon: 0-Broke in 3.2 secs
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by HondaH22a#1
Would hondata be able to run all of that? Or would I have to get something else. I'm planning on running a 50 or 75 shot of nitrous. Also I was thinking about getting the block sleeved, is that needed?
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H series can be boosted without being re-sleeved, but you have to have a pretty good tune, it would be much more reliable and you would have a better feeling of security if you re-sleeve it.......FRM cylinder lining ftmfl, cast-iron (F-series ftmfw)
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09-03-2007, 04:39 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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High Octane Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 897
Car: 2000 Honda Prelude
Mods: F16 Jet engine strapped to the back using zipties
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FRM sleeves are very strong. Have you ever heard of someone cracking a FRM sleeve? I know I haven't. H22 can handle 6-9psi on stock internals with proper tuning. Especially if you send your supercharger to get reworked by Endyn. I highly recommend doing this. With the MUCH lower IATs that you'll get you could probably run 6 psi and a small shot of nitrous. You get air temps at 12 psi on a modded blower that are lower then 6 psi on an unmodded one.
If not, the trick with the h22 is the weak ringlands. So you'll want to replace the pistons. But due to the FRM sleeves, regular aftermarket pistons will scratch the cylinder walls. So you're choices are either resleeve (or press in) with standard iron sleeves or go with mahle FRM compatiable pistons. After that you could run probably 15-20 psi (on a modded blower of course, a stock blower would generate too much heat to be useful up that high) and a shot of nitrous. A member of Preludeonline.com is just finishing up this exact build. He'll have ~400whp.
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Formerly Prelude707
2000 Honda Prelude
Mod list-
Engine: AEM CAI, AEM underdrive pullies, Apex'i N1 catback exhaust, Random Tech Hi-flow cat, Apex'i VAFC(dyno tuned), Zex wet shot w/dual bottles and purge, NX bottle warmers, Lean Racing short shifter, ES motor mount inserts, Hondata IM gasket, AEM FPR w/fuel rail & hi-flow fuel filter, Walbaro fuel pump, MSD wires, Moroso oilpan & pickup, Greddy oil catch can, removed balancer shafts, Greddy timing belt with manual tensioner conversion
Looks: JDM fog lights, VIS OEM carbon fiber hood, SIR blue valve cover, OEM lip kit, Cleared out taillights, S2000 seats with OEM leather rears
Handling: Tein SS, Neuspeed front strut bar, Tanabe rear strut bar, ST rear sway bar, Ingalls camber kit(-1 camber), Tanabe Underbraces, Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires
Tranny: ACT Xtreme pressure plate w/street disc and streetlite flywheel
Stopping: Brembo slotted rotors, AEM brake pads, Goodridge braided brake lines, DOT 4.5 fluid
Cooling: Fluidyne radiator, Mugen thermo & fan switch, Samco hoses, Spoon radiator cap
Misc: Braille 15lb battery, Eclipse AVN6600 touchscreen head unit, weight redux, Autometer fuel pressure & A/F ratio gauges, Greddy counter weighted shift knob, Spoon reservoir covers, Honda Access door sills, Carbon fiber spark cover, nothing but Mobil One oil, JDM cup holder!
Suspension...done, Cooling...done, Brakes...done, Endyn modded supercharger at 9 psi...waiting for install
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09-03-2007, 04:44 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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High Octane Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 897
Car: 2000 Honda Prelude
Mods: F16 Jet engine strapped to the back using zipties
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Oh one more thing, you don't really need to touch your head. The h22 head is fine. I would sell the valvetrain to fund other things.
And stock h22 cams are the way to get with a supercharger. No one has yet to find a cam that'll give gains on the h22. You can't even adjust cam gears with the supercharger on due to the brackets blocking everything.
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Formerly Prelude707
2000 Honda Prelude
Mod list-
Engine: AEM CAI, AEM underdrive pullies, Apex'i N1 catback exhaust, Random Tech Hi-flow cat, Apex'i VAFC(dyno tuned), Zex wet shot w/dual bottles and purge, NX bottle warmers, Lean Racing short shifter, ES motor mount inserts, Hondata IM gasket, AEM FPR w/fuel rail & hi-flow fuel filter, Walbaro fuel pump, MSD wires, Moroso oilpan & pickup, Greddy oil catch can, removed balancer shafts, Greddy timing belt with manual tensioner conversion
Looks: JDM fog lights, VIS OEM carbon fiber hood, SIR blue valve cover, OEM lip kit, Cleared out taillights, S2000 seats with OEM leather rears
Handling: Tein SS, Neuspeed front strut bar, Tanabe rear strut bar, ST rear sway bar, Ingalls camber kit(-1 camber), Tanabe Underbraces, Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires
Tranny: ACT Xtreme pressure plate w/street disc and streetlite flywheel
Stopping: Brembo slotted rotors, AEM brake pads, Goodridge braided brake lines, DOT 4.5 fluid
Cooling: Fluidyne radiator, Mugen thermo & fan switch, Samco hoses, Spoon radiator cap
Misc: Braille 15lb battery, Eclipse AVN6600 touchscreen head unit, weight redux, Autometer fuel pressure & A/F ratio gauges, Greddy counter weighted shift knob, Spoon reservoir covers, Honda Access door sills, Carbon fiber spark cover, nothing but Mobil One oil, JDM cup holder!
Suspension...done, Cooling...done, Brakes...done, Endyn modded supercharger at 9 psi...waiting for install
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09-03-2007, 06:24 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Ninja Matsume
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lufkin, TX / Winter Park, FL
Posts: 3,897
Car: '01 Honda Accord LX 2.3, '90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Mods: Accord: SRI, EVO2 cat-back, and a few suprises....... Talon: 0-Broke in 3.2 secs
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by unaTEINable
FRM sleeves are very strong. Have you ever heard of someone cracking a FRM sleeve? I know I haven't. H22 can handle 6-9psi on stock internals with proper tuning. Especially if you send your supercharger to get reworked by Endyn. I highly recommend doing this. With the MUCH lower IATs that you'll get you could probably run 6 psi and a small shot of nitrous. You get air temps at 12 psi on a modded blower that are lower then 6 psi on an unmodded one.
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Cast-Iron cylinder lining>FRM cylinder lining, hence better for boost, you can run the boost on the FRM composite sleeves all you want bro, but in the end, running the boost through cast-iron is going to be far more reliable even with higher boost pressures. You may be able to run boost on an H22 stock block, but how reliable is it truly going to be with the average driving style of kids these days? might last for 150 miles? maybe 500 tops. just go with new sleeves, its cheaper than a new motor........ btw I have seen a cracked FRM sleeve...fucking local tuners write checks their asses can't cash on a boosted prelude.....
All the above is taken in the mindset that the OP is the average boostaholic that does 3rdgear drops and goes into VTEC at every opportunity, or that the OP doesn't know he will need a new ECU setup.......
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09-04-2007, 06:26 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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High Octane Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 897
Car: 2000 Honda Prelude
Mods: F16 Jet engine strapped to the back using zipties
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by accordsleeper89
Cast-Iron cylinder lining>FRM cylinder lining, hence better for boost, you can run the boost on the FRM composite sleeves all you want bro, but in the end, running the boost through cast-iron is going to be far more reliable even with higher boost pressures. You may be able to run boost on an H22 stock block, but how reliable is it truly going to be with the average driving style of kids these days? might last for 150 miles? maybe 500 tops. just go with new sleeves, its cheaper than a new motor........ btw I have seen a cracked FRM sleeve...fucking local tuners write checks their asses can't cash on a boosted prelude.....
All the above is taken in the mindset that the OP is the average boostaholic that does 3rdgear drops and goes into VTEC at every opportunity, or that the OP doesn't know he will need a new ECU setup.......
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Sure cast iron maybe stronger, but those can crack just as easily without the proper setup. I think that if you could use aftermarket pistons with h22, a whole bunch of people wouldn't have sleeved their block. FRM is plenty strong. The only There are quite a few people over at Preludeonline.com that run JRSC and I think only one has sleeved his block. Their engines have lasted thousands of miles. One with over 50,000 miles with the JRSC.
If the OP wants to play it safe, all he needs are some mahle pistons and a good tune. Oh, and to the OP, if you do run nitrous make sure it's a direct port set-up. The extreme cold of the nitrous hitting the heated up supercharger blades ends up cracking the coating Jackson Racing puts on them and sending it into your motor. Or the Endyn mods will also remove it for you.
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Formerly Prelude707
2000 Honda Prelude
Mod list-
Engine: AEM CAI, AEM underdrive pullies, Apex'i N1 catback exhaust, Random Tech Hi-flow cat, Apex'i VAFC(dyno tuned), Zex wet shot w/dual bottles and purge, NX bottle warmers, Lean Racing short shifter, ES motor mount inserts, Hondata IM gasket, AEM FPR w/fuel rail & hi-flow fuel filter, Walbaro fuel pump, MSD wires, Moroso oilpan & pickup, Greddy oil catch can, removed balancer shafts, Greddy timing belt with manual tensioner conversion
Looks: JDM fog lights, VIS OEM carbon fiber hood, SIR blue valve cover, OEM lip kit, Cleared out taillights, S2000 seats with OEM leather rears
Handling: Tein SS, Neuspeed front strut bar, Tanabe rear strut bar, ST rear sway bar, Ingalls camber kit(-1 camber), Tanabe Underbraces, Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires
Tranny: ACT Xtreme pressure plate w/street disc and streetlite flywheel
Stopping: Brembo slotted rotors, AEM brake pads, Goodridge braided brake lines, DOT 4.5 fluid
Cooling: Fluidyne radiator, Mugen thermo & fan switch, Samco hoses, Spoon radiator cap
Misc: Braille 15lb battery, Eclipse AVN6600 touchscreen head unit, weight redux, Autometer fuel pressure & A/F ratio gauges, Greddy counter weighted shift knob, Spoon reservoir covers, Honda Access door sills, Carbon fiber spark cover, nothing but Mobil One oil, JDM cup holder!
Suspension...done, Cooling...done, Brakes...done, Endyn modded supercharger at 9 psi...waiting for install
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09-04-2007, 10:38 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Ninja Matsume
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lufkin, TX / Winter Park, FL
Posts: 3,897
Car: '01 Honda Accord LX 2.3, '90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Mods: Accord: SRI, EVO2 cat-back, and a few suprises....... Talon: 0-Broke in 3.2 secs
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by unaTEINable
If the OP wants to play it safe, all he needs are some mahle pistons and a good tune. Oh, and to the OP, if you do run nitrous make sure it's a direct port set-up. The extreme cold of the nitrous hitting the heated up supercharger blades ends up cracking the coating Jackson Racing puts on them and sending it into your motor. Or the Endyn mods will also remove it for you.
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09-04-2007, 12:13 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Brand Spanking Newbie
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Originally Posted by unaTEINable
Sure cast iron maybe stronger, but those can crack just as easily without the proper setup. I think that if you could use aftermarket pistons with h22, a whole bunch of people wouldn't have sleeved their block. FRM is plenty strong. The only There are quite a few people over at Preludeonline.com that run JRSC and I think only one has sleeved his block. Their engines have lasted thousands of miles. One with over 50,000 miles with the JRSC.
If the OP wants to play it safe, all he needs are some mahle pistons and a good tune. Oh, and to the OP, if you do run nitrous make sure it's a direct port set-up. The extreme cold of the nitrous hitting the heated up supercharger blades ends up cracking the coating Jackson Racing puts on them and sending it into your motor. Or the Endyn mods will also remove it for you.
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So are you guys sure that the stock head could handle it? Kinda worried bout bending a valve or somethin. Anyways so I definietly know that i'm gonna go with the FRM sleeves. What pistons and rods do you guys recommend goin with this setup?
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09-04-2007, 04:06 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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High Octane Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 897
Car: 2000 Honda Prelude
Mods: F16 Jet engine strapped to the back using zipties
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by HondaH22a#1
So are you guys sure that the stock head could handle it? Kinda worried bout bending a valve or somethin. Anyways so I definietly know that i'm gonna go with the FRM sleeves. What pistons and rods do you guys recommend goin with this setup?
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Positive about the valvetrain.
And some 9:1 c/r Mahle gold series pistons, and some Eagle rods I will be a fine set-up. Do you plan on getting your blower moddified by Endyn? If not I suggest you forget all about the pistons and rods and just spend the money on that. Then run 9 psi and forget about nitrous. You'll make about the same power, with less money and less stress on your motor. That's just my opinion, though. 
__________________
Formerly Prelude707
2000 Honda Prelude
Mod list-
Engine: AEM CAI, AEM underdrive pullies, Apex'i N1 catback exhaust, Random Tech Hi-flow cat, Apex'i VAFC(dyno tuned), Zex wet shot w/dual bottles and purge, NX bottle warmers, Lean Racing short shifter, ES motor mount inserts, Hondata IM gasket, AEM FPR w/fuel rail & hi-flow fuel filter, Walbaro fuel pump, MSD wires, Moroso oilpan & pickup, Greddy oil catch can, removed balancer shafts, Greddy timing belt with manual tensioner conversion
Looks: JDM fog lights, VIS OEM carbon fiber hood, SIR blue valve cover, OEM lip kit, Cleared out taillights, S2000 seats with OEM leather rears
Handling: Tein SS, Neuspeed front strut bar, Tanabe rear strut bar, ST rear sway bar, Ingalls camber kit(-1 camber), Tanabe Underbraces, Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires
Tranny: ACT Xtreme pressure plate w/street disc and streetlite flywheel
Stopping: Brembo slotted rotors, AEM brake pads, Goodridge braided brake lines, DOT 4.5 fluid
Cooling: Fluidyne radiator, Mugen thermo & fan switch, Samco hoses, Spoon radiator cap
Misc: Braille 15lb battery, Eclipse AVN6600 touchscreen head unit, weight redux, Autometer fuel pressure & A/F ratio gauges, Greddy counter weighted shift knob, Spoon reservoir covers, Honda Access door sills, Carbon fiber spark cover, nothing but Mobil One oil, JDM cup holder!
Suspension...done, Cooling...done, Brakes...done, Endyn modded supercharger at 9 psi...waiting for install
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09-04-2007, 11:58 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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SH Titanium
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vienna WV
Posts: 339
Car: 91 CRX Si
Mods: JRSC high boost pulley 450 inj.
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