Jackson Racing SuperCharger Opinions Please read

[hondapop]

Originally Posted by female four

Stock operating temps are 190-210 degrees F. So when its in the middle, its within that range. Stock just doesn't have the markings on there because all that should matter is you are cold, in operating temp, or overheating.

AGAIN...the point is the stock gauge sucks, and doesn't tell you anything useful...hopefully you know when your engine is cold...

[civic2sick]

What do you guys use for engine management? How safe is it to run on stock ecu (temporary)? I've driven a ION redline and would have never guessed it was super charged until someone told me (revs smooth and constant) Does the JR feel the same way on the honda engine? The only thing I can't stand about turbo cars is that it's hard to keep steady throttle IMO.

[female four]

Originally Posted by hondapop

AGAIN...the point is the stock gauge sucks, and doesn't tell you anything useful...hopefully you know when your engine is cold...

And again, all you really need to know is cold, operating temp, and overheating. The only thing it doesn't show is the exact number. Which is you had a simple scan tool, can be displayed quite easily.

I'm glad you got to see how your temp gauge movbes from 160-200. Bummer because thats where the stock one operates at as well.

[AcidLotus]

Originally Posted by civic2sick

What do you guys use for engine management? How safe is it to run on stock ecu (temporary)? I've driven a ION redline and would have never guessed it was super charged until someone told me (revs smooth and constant) Does the JR feel the same way on the honda engine? The only thing I can't stand about turbo cars is that it's hard to keep steady throttle IMO.

The first two questions can be answered by reading the stickies in this forum. And yes, the JR feels the same way... smooth and constant, with a slight bump in power surge at VTEC crossover.

[pimpin94gsr]

After having the j/r on my gs-r for 2 years now, I have realized many things about the setup. In general the setup is nice and reliable, the boost is almost instant and the power gains are fairly good without a tune. The major downsides are the heat issues and limitations when running higher boost. I just recently had my engine rebuilt with forged internals, stock compression and pretty much stock head, and the setup made a good amount of power. with 10 lbs I was making 210 hp with 175k miles and now im making 225 with around 2k miles (I think I could use a better tuner). It may not seem like much but it feels alot stronger all through the rev range. It ran a 14.4 with the old build and 14.1 with the new one consistently (autox radials and LSD).

as far as an 00' gsr motor it will work fine, I have gone through so many issues with the setup i have pretty much determined that a gs-r motor could handle much more abuse than with the j/r. I mean i detonated on the dyno 3 times running 12 lbs of boost and the motor held up fine. it also ran lean for a few months and never gave me problems.

for the money it is definitely worth it, but if you have the slightest inkling of wanting more power in the future, spend the money on another setup. I put all of the best parts in my setup and engine build and only ended up with 225 hp and a 14.1........now ive realize for the money i spent on tuning and parts i could have had a nice reliable turbo setup making almost 100+ more hp.

I have to say j/r makes a nice setup, so if you have the opportunity to buy one at a low price go for it. you will definitely be satisfied.

[hondapop]

Originally Posted by female four

And again, all you really need to know is cold, operating temp, and overheating. The only thing it doesn't show is the exact number. Which is you had a simple scan tool, can be displayed quite easily.

I'm glad you got to see how your temp gauge movbes from 160-200. Bummer because thats where the stock one operates at as well.

And again.....Bummer that you just don't get it.....MY ORIGINAL GAUGE MEASURES IN THE MIDDLE AFTER STARTUP ALL THE TIME...WARM, NORMAL, AND HOT.....they are simply not accuate. And...there actually people out there who want to know what tempurature they are running....in the summer....after a hard run....when using AC..... when stuck in traffic....The point has and still is, make sure you have an accurate temp gauge with a SC install.....

[PickleTeg]

Man...I don't wanna hate...but 225 is LOW for a GSR on 10 psi. I make 206 on mine and it is a LS. I think quite a few guys around are making 20-30 more hp than that on a similar setup to yours. I know a guy with an LS/VTEC that made 225 on 9 psi and he kept the rev limit to just above 7000 to save his lower end. It just sounds funny to me IMO

[female four]

Originally Posted by hondapop

And again.....Bummer that you just don't get it.....MY ORIGINAL GAUGE MEASURES IN THE MIDDLE AFTER STARTUP ALL THE TIME...WARM, NORMAL, AND HOT.....they are simply not accuate. And...there actually people out there who want to know what tempurature they are running....in the summer....after a hard run....when using AC..... when stuck in traffic....The point has and still is, make sure you have an accurate temp gauge with a SC install.....

Sorry if your temp gauge was not worrking. But the temp will not run over 210 degrees if it its working properly. The thermo will switch on and the coolant will cycle. Idling in bumper to bumper traffic or racing. It will aim to cool itself to that temp.

When the gaue goes over that designated temp, that just means a device in the cooling system is faulty and you have to replace it. Its not the gauges fault.

Its like closed loop operation targeting 14.7:1 all the time. The cooling system will target its operating range of 190-210 degrees all the time. If it gets hotter than that, it'll cycle the coolant to cool the engine down.

So don't blame the gauge for being bad or inaccurate. Its sufficient for what it does. If anyone is concerned they should be looking at a lower thermostate and switch for full racing applications.

[hondapop]

Originally Posted by female four

Sorry if your temp gauge was not worrking. But the temp will not run over 210 degrees if it its working properly. The thermo will switch on and the coolant will cycle. Idling in bumper to bumper traffic or racing. It will aim to cool itself to that temp.

When the gaue goes over that designated temp, that just means a device in the cooling system is faulty and you have to replace it. Its not the gauges fault.

Its like closed loop operation targeting 14.7:1 all the time. The cooling system will target its operating range of 190-210 degrees all the time. If it gets hotter than that, it'll cycle the coolant to cool the engine down.

So don't blame the gauge for being bad or inaccurate. Its sufficient for what it does. If anyone is concerned they should be looking at a lower thermostate and switch for full racing applications.

HELLO...ANYONE HOME......THE GAUGE IS WORKING AS DESIGNED AND POINTS TO THE MIDDLE ALL THE TIME. YOU MAY NOT WANT TO KNOW WHAT TEMP THIS REPRESENTS, BUT I DO.....AND PROBABLY ANYONE ELSE THAT WANTS TO WATCH THE TEMP OF A MODIFIED ENGINE...PUT IN A RELIABLE GAUGE, GOOD QUALITY GAUGE......

[female four]

Originally Posted by hondapop

HELLO...ANYONE HOME......THE GAUGE IS WORKING AS DESIGNED AND POINTS TO THE MIDDLE ALL THE TIME. YOU MAY NOT WANT TO KNOW WHAT TEMP THIS REPRESENTS, BUT I DO.....AND PROBABLY ANYONE ELSE THAT WANTS TO WATCH THE TEMP OF A MODIFIED ENGINE...PUT IN A RELIABLE GAUGE, GOOD QUALITY GAUGE......GET A LIFE FEMALE, MALE OR WHATEVER...

You're so intelligent!

[ksniperfox]

Originally Posted by hondapop

HELLO...ANYONE HOME......THE GAUGE IS WORKING AS DESIGNED AND POINTS TO THE MIDDLE ALL THE TIME. YOU MAY NOT WANT TO KNOW WHAT TEMP THIS REPRESENTS, BUT I DO.....AND PROBABLY ANYONE ELSE THAT WANTS TO WATCH THE TEMP OF A MODIFIED ENGINE...PUT IN A RELIABLE GAUGE, GOOD QUALITY GAUGE......

wow so when you crank your car after its been sitting for a day and immediately upon starting the needle is at the middle. that means your gauge is broken. it takes time for the engine to warm. and if your gauge IS working properly, and its in the middle ALL the time, you dont have any problems cause its at operating temperature as you claim. it doesnt matter what the temp is. all you need to know is if its cold, hot, or overheating and your OEM gauge does that fine.

[AcidLotus]

Alright guys, keep the personal attacks down or it's getting locked

[hondapop]

Originally Posted by ksniperfox

wow so when you crank your car after its been sitting for a day and immediately upon starting the needle is at the middle. that means your gauge is broken. you are a retard. it takes time for the engine to warm. and if your gauge IS working properly, and its in the middle ALL the time, you dont have any problems dickwad cause its at operating temperature as you claim. you are a moron. it doesnt matter what the temp is. all you need to know is if its cold, hot, or overheating and your OEM gauge does that fine. stop talking youre only making yourself look more stupid and how much smarter female four is than you are.

no...once it has warmed up, it stays in the middle, while the autometer shows varience's of from about 160---200.....deleted by AcidLotus

[pimpin94gsr]

Originally Posted by PickleTeg

Man...I don't wanna hate...but 225 is LOW for a GSR on 10 psi. I make 206 on mine and it is a LS. I think quite a few guys around are making 20-30 more hp than that on a similar setup to yours. I know a guy with an LS/VTEC that made 225 on 9 psi and he kept the rev limit to just above 7000 to save his lower end. It just sounds funny to me IMO

I definitely agree, I was expecting somewhere around 250 hp @ 10 lbs with a freshly buit motor. I think the low numbers are due to my tuner and the dyno it was on. I understand people say all dynos should read the same but there are cases where some read higher/lower (for example the intertune TV video). I think from past experiences it reads lower than normal. I also think the tuner is fairly young, he is only in his mid 20's and he hasnt tuned many jrsc setups. an extra 25 hp could be done through better tuning in my mind. he kept having trouble with the a/f ratio when he was tuning the car so i think there may be some spark issues. you would see the a/f line kind of dissapear at some points in the rpm band. But in any case


for the money I spent, and the debt I put myself into, 14.1 just wont cut it. As soon as i get the funds the s/c is coming off and a turbo is going on. The power is nice, but the setup has its limitations, even with the LHT i/c. If someone could come up with an i/c kit that ran 20 lbs then i would def hop on that (like endyne supposidly did).

[daveb91]

Originally Posted by AcidLotus

Alright guys, keep the personal attacks down or it's getting locked

thank you it was getting a little annoying