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Old 01-23-2006, 10:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Photographic techniques

Those of us who truly have an interest in photography know there is a difference between taking pictures and making images. To make the most of your images it is vital to know and learn various techniques that will bring out a camera full potential.
In this thread I am asking everyone to share different tips and techniques you commonly use to bring new life to what may be by any other means mediocre. (for information on shutterspeeds, and aperatures see Primax's thread
Understanding aperture, shutter speeds and exposure)

A very important and very useful tool in creating an above average image is using composition to its fullest potential. Composition is the way you frame up the subject and the surroundings in an image. Something that seperates photographers and those who just point and shoot is how one will compose his image. Amateurs will often times use static images because they don't know any better. When in most cases a static image is looked down upon. By static I mean setting a subject in the direct center of the frame, and setting a horizon in the middle. By setting a horizon above or below center you can create a whole new feel to your photo. Also when looking at your subject think about your image to be seperated into 1/4's. It is often better to place your subject, not in the middle of the frame but into one of the quadrants. here are some examples.



In this image it is very obvious what the subject of the photo is. Yet by placing the lamp into a quadrant of the frame I've created an abstract and much more interesting image



Again I've set the phone(subject) off to one side of the frame to give the image a more interesting feel.

Of course there are times placing an image in a static position is useful and sometimes even considered better in the case of automotive photography. Many people will consider it right to place a car in full frame.


Showing Motion.

Subject Blur
A good way to implicate the feel of movement there are 3 techniques that come into a lot of use. These techniques are known as subject blur and pan, the only downside is that both of these techniques require low lighting situations as you need a long shutter speed.
As a general rule you can use a shutter speed as slow as 1/30 before needing a stable stand (such as a tripod) to avoid camera shake. So in the case of a subject blur and pan a tripod is very useful.

Subject blur example


in this example I took for a photostory assignment I used a table top tripod and set a shutter speed of, I beleive, 1/8 of a second and obviously the aperature to compensate. Notice how the background is in relatively clear focus considering our subject is obviously blurred. so to capture a subject blur remember long shutter speed + tripod + moving object and you have yourself something fun to play with. This is common with photographs of lightning, and light trails from cars (very common)

Pan

Pan example


Obviously a pan is just a variation of a subject blur, but instead of keeping the background in focus we use camera movement to keep the subject in clear focus while the background blurs with the camera movement. To capture this photograph of the Skyline I used a monopod and as the car passed a tried to keep the subject in the center of the frame as it passed. Now many of us use SLR cameras and when you release the shutter you know we lose sight of the subject through the viewfinder. To help make that less of an issue it is usually better follow the vehicle in frame for a short time before actually taking the picture that way you get a feel for how fast it is moving in relation to your camera. When you feel you are following the subject at ample speed then you can release the shutter and continue to follow until the shutter closes back up. This will cause the background to blur, while the subject stays in relatively sharp focus. For sports photography it is common for the photographer to use a monopod instead of a tripod because of its lightweight features and ease of mobility, but like subject blur you still want a steady surface to make sure the background stays somewhat in order althought it is definatly not 100% necessary.

Zoom Blur
Another way to manipulate a blur try using a slow shutter speed and as you release the shutter zoom in or out on the subject with your lense to create a sort of a "tunnel vision". Again this is only possible with a slow shutter speed.
Zoom Blur example
*I will need to scan my example and I will post it once I have the chance*


Selective Focus

Aside from using motion to bring more to the subject of a photo, there is one other technique that is very common even if you don't realize you are doing it. This method is called selective focus. As you open up your aperature your depth of field will become more and more shallow. Selective focus uses this fact to pull a subject into focus while making everything else in different planes of focus soft.
remember:
f1 (f4 is more common) = shallow depth of field
f90 (f32 is more common) = deep depth of field
also a telephoto lense is very effective for selective focus

Selective Focus example
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Old 01-23-2006, 10:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Feel free to post your examples of these techniques or any others you'd like to show us
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Old 01-23-2006, 11:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Amateur Blur

Come among my photographs. Usually happens at the worst possible time. Subject of the photo is entirely blurred and unidentifiable. Photos have zero use, beside to totally piss the photographer off. Once you get into the amateur blur zone it seems the spill over to all photos taken that day. Serious cases may cause photographer to put all his gear in a eBay auction with no minimum bid. Mind cases the photographer blames the gear.


But seriously, good information.
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Old 01-23-2006, 11:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenfiddich_man
Amateur Blur

Come among my photographs. Usually happens at the worst possible time. Subject of the photo is entirely blurred and unidentifiable. Photos have zero use, beside to totally piss the photographer off. Once you get into the amateur blur zone it seems the spill over to all photos taken that day. Serious cases may cause photographer to put all his gear in a eBay auction with no minimum bid. Mind cases the photographer blames the gear.


But seriously, good information.


it's always fun to try and explain to people why their photograph blurred
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Old 01-26-2006, 06:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Another technique is called lomo. It is kinda an emo style. You shoot at eitehr f8 or f11 at 125 and shoot from the hip. It can get some cool results. you gustimate the distance. I would load an example but the only ones i have done in this style are film. Also try cros processing your film.

A great thing to pick up on is the use of the DOF chart on your camera lens. If you need mroe explination of this i can write more just say something.
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Old 01-26-2006, 06:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by accord dude
Another technique is called lomo. It is kinda an emo style. You shoot at eitehr f8 or f11 at 125 and shoot from the hip. It can get some cool results. you gustimate the distance. I would load an example but the only ones i have done in this style are film. Also try cros processing your film.

A great thing to pick up on is the use of the DOF chart on your camera lens. If you need mroe explination of this i can write more just say something.
please feel free to add on with tips, this thread was made for that purpose
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Old 01-26-2006, 07:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok DOF

So thorough a few simple math caculations you can come up with a DOF chart. This chart is put on most good lenses by the manf. But most people dont know what it is.

It is the set of numbers right above where on your lens it says say 50mm or 35 or whatever. It will commonly have 22 16 8 I R 16 22 or something very simular these represent your f stop.

On the next ring you have the distance from the subject Such as .25 .35 .5 .7 1 2 inf. So take a look through your camera and put something in focus. Now look at your fstop and look at the distance from the obj. So say the object is 3 feet away from the reading on your lens. You can then use the f stops and the lines beside them to figure out what will be in focus at each stop.

So at f 3.5 just a bit. at f 8 anything from 2.5-5 feet, at f 16 anything from .7 ta just over 5 feet at f 22 you see the pattern. So through this you can see why often times using the focus at infinity will not necessarley give you the best results.

So change your f stop and get more or less in focus. The same goes for macro. If you stop down your f stop to f 22 your going to have a much larger focus area than at say f 2.8.

The reason this works this way is becasue of the amout of light let into the camera though the diaphram. As it gets bigger and lets more light in the little circles that form the image get biger and create mroe blur. With smaller apatures this allows in smaller cirlcles of light and makes the picture more in focus.

you can also view this by using the DOF funciton on your camera. This is not the best explination but the best one I can give with out showing it to you. Hope this helps yall out.
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Old 01-26-2006, 08:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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shooting from the hip:

Not really a technique I learned, just something I do.
I set my camera to focus on the nearest object and leave everything else on auto. It's a great skill to develop because you can shots that are more candid. It also gives you a different angle if you're holding the camera in one hand by your waist. And its all about getting a different angle. It's important to review your photos as soon as possible, so you can learn to properly aim the camera without looking at it much.
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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heres a site that i found that has just about everything you need to know
http://photoinf.com/
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Old 02-27-2006, 01:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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i acually have a question
What about photos of moving things, while your moving yourself.

example-


Should both cars be at the same speed?
Should the camera car be moving slower, while you move your cam with the other car?
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Old 02-27-2006, 09:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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It depends what kinda of shooting.

if you want a similar shot like the one posted:

cars should be traveling at a set speed, doesnt have to be same, but the distance between them should not change.

you'll want to shoot with a slower shutter to capture the sense of speed(background blurred, wheels blurred)

then you also can do a Pan shot, which is tricky at first and takes some practice, basically you are at a fixed postion, and a car drives from one side to the other and you shoot at a slow shutter(1/30) thats still manageable by hand, and you pan the camera as the car drives by, it takes some getting used to, but the results are good, you'll get good motion blurrin in the background and some of the car maybe, but if you followed the car correctly you should have it focused and the bg blurred since you're shooting straight towards to the bg while moving the camera to the side.
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