Anyone have a lightweight flywheel on their R?? If so what weight (8lbs, 10lbs) and do you like it?? My next set of mods will focus on handling and enhancing my driving experience as opposed to raw power, and I know a lighter flywheel will add some life to the engine.
Since it's such a high revvin engine to begin with, would that be too much to add?
__________________
HONDA...
KICKIN'
SINGLE TURBOTWIN-TURBOSUPERCHARGEDNITROUS-OXIDEBIG-BLOCKFLAT-FOURI-6/V-6/V-8
ASS
SINCE 1954.
Simply put, get the lightest FW you can afford.
I have the orginal 6.75lbs Comptech FW and it's the way the car should have come from the factory. (imho)
Daily driving... I did it for 4 years with it and after the first day you will want even lighter, nothing hard about driving with a light FW.
It's all about the clutch, a grabby/ sticky clutch or strong spring clutch kit will make it hard. Stay with an close to stock clutch setup and you will not regret one bit.
Stay with an close to stock clutch setup and you will not regret one bit.
that defeats the whole purpose of building a car then. if you're making too much torque, the clutch will just slip. i think a heavy duty plate and organic disc doesn't offer too much more grip over stock...enough for a mild tune though...and those are fairly easy to handle.
I don't see high HP and torque numbers in my future...more suspension, braking and mild engine mods approaching 200whp. I'll look into the comptech flywheel for starters.
__________________
HONDA...
KICKIN'
SINGLE TURBOTWIN-TURBOSUPERCHARGEDNITROUS-OXIDEBIG-BLOCKFLAT-FOURI-6/V-6/V-8
ASS
SINCE 1954.
just depends on how you build the motor. an organic disc w/ pressure plate can only hold about 25% more torque than stock...which isn't that much since as we know, hondas don't make torque.
Mods: All stock, for now. Hooked up the stereo though.
Yes it is- the stock clutch (when new) can handle far more power than the stock engine makes. My ACT Stage 1 (organic disc) is rated to hold up to 243ft/lbs of torque. Thats enough to handle even most BOOSTED B-series engines.
I think the point bbasso was trying to make is that you should use the clutch that is closest to stock, WITHOUT worrying about it slipping. For example, if youre making 200whp and 135wtq, a Stage 1 is the closest to stock (although a stock would probably still hold this power). You wouldnt want a Stage 3 Unsprung 6 puck clutch for a 200whp setup. Its way overkill and will suck horribly to drive on the street. A clutch that is too powerful will feel like an on/off switch with no friction zone. It wont be fun to drive.
Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
1997 GSR- 192whp 130wtq all motor. SOLD
1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
1998 Nissan 240SX SE New!
And a 2000 Suzuki SV650
True dat. In a case like that I would only put a performance clutch if my factory one fails. Actually that is kinda the trend down here...when sumt'n breaks - fuck, upgrade that shit!!
__________________
HONDA...
KICKIN'
SINGLE TURBOTWIN-TURBOSUPERCHARGEDNITROUS-OXIDEBIG-BLOCKFLAT-FOURI-6/V-6/V-8
ASS
SINCE 1954.
Mods: All stock, for now. Hooked up the stereo though.
Well if youre going to have the transmission out to replace the flywheel, you might as well replace the clutch while youre in there. Its a lot of work to get to- it would suck if you put the same clutch back in and it shit the bed 10 miles later. If you do decide to put the stock one back in, at least inspect it- make sure its in good shape.
Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
1997 GSR- 192whp 130wtq all motor. SOLD
1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
1998 Nissan 240SX SE New!
And a 2000 Suzuki SV650