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Old 08-02-2006, 05:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Skunk2 Intake Manifold

Just installed the Skunk2 I/M with Hondata gasket on my B18B with the help of a shop.

The install:
Everything bolted up fine, but needed longer studs, had some on hand in the shop, so that was fine. Needed to weld shut a couple un-needed holes, and needed some longer connections here and there...the throttle body cable I think needed fabrication. All in all, could do it for a 4 hour labour charge if you just gave it to a shop. Took us a leisurely 4.

Results:
With my mods in my sig from before, the sound changed a bit to a more raw all motor sound. It screams performance. Before it was a low deep gnarly growl, which I loved, but this is really cool too.

Not a TON of loss on the low end. You don't notice unless you try to give it some in 3rd gear right after a 'usual speed' 2nd gear shift. A bit sluggish until you get to at least 5k in 3rd. No change in 1st gear performance.

2nd Gear performance is verrrry noticeable. I got an instant smile on my face after 2nd gear passed 4,000 rpm. It blew me away how much the I/M helped. A very smooth transition into more power.
Also, the engine sounds MUCH happier when its close to redline. Before I was hesitant to take it to just before redline because of the sound she made. Now it sounds beautiful.

Summary:

Butt dyno.....way more noticeable power than a CAI, or a Header on their own.
__________________
1996 Acura Integra SE



Motor: BC0022 Cams, Crower V/T, AEM Cam Gears, Comptech Icebox, Skunk2 I/M w/ Hondata gasket, DC-S 4-2-1 Header, 2.07" Brullen Cat-Back, B&M FPR, FAL Rad/AC Fans.
Tuning: UBERDATA, FJO Racing Wideband AFR System/Gauge
Security: Computer chip ignition Immobilizer, Intrusion alarm, Glass break alarm, and of course... THE BAR!!

Old Dyno: 175whp @ 7500 RPM / 135wtq @ 7000 RPM........ERTW

2001 Toyota Highlander V6 4WD - Winter Car - 220bhp / 222tq Bone Stock Baby!
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Old 12-31-2006, 12:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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anyone have an idea if this would be good on the type r? I'm thinking about ordering one here soon
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Old 12-31-2006, 12:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capntoll
Just installed the Skunk2 I/M with Hondata gasket on my B18B with the help of a shop.

The install:
Everything bolted up fine, but needed longer studs, had some on hand in the shop, so that was fine. Needed to weld shut a couple un-needed holes, and needed some longer connections here and there...the throttle body cable I think needed fabrication. All in all, could do it for a 4 hour labour charge if you just gave it to a shop. Took us a leisurely 4.

Results:
With my mods in my sig from before, the sound changed a bit to a more raw all motor sound. It screams performance. Before it was a low deep gnarly growl, which I loved, but this is really cool too.

Not a TON of loss on the low end. You don't notice unless you try to give it some in 3rd gear right after a 'usual speed' 2nd gear shift. A bit sluggish until you get to at least 5k in 3rd. No change in 1st gear performance.

2nd Gear performance is verrrry noticeable. I got an instant smile on my face after 2nd gear passed 4,000 rpm. It blew me away how much the I/M helped. A very smooth transition into more power.
Also, the engine sounds MUCH happier when its close to redline. Before I was hesitant to take it to just before redline because of the sound she made. Now it sounds beautiful.

Summary:

Butt dyno.....way more noticeable power than a CAI, or a Header on their own.
not a fan of that mani, but im happy for u, get u a real header on some nice profile cams and watch that "sluggishness" in third disappear...
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Old 12-31-2006, 03:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yea, I'm getting the stage 2 crowers this summer. People that have the Crower II cams without the mani get mid 150s for whp. I'm hoping for 160.

As for the DC-S Header, for my purposes, it's good enough. I've seen high horse and high dollar setups use the DC-S. The gains wouldn't really warrant getting another header.
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1996 Acura Integra SE



Motor: BC0022 Cams, Crower V/T, AEM Cam Gears, Comptech Icebox, Skunk2 I/M w/ Hondata gasket, DC-S 4-2-1 Header, 2.07" Brullen Cat-Back, B&M FPR, FAL Rad/AC Fans.
Tuning: UBERDATA, FJO Racing Wideband AFR System/Gauge
Security: Computer chip ignition Immobilizer, Intrusion alarm, Glass break alarm, and of course... THE BAR!!

Old Dyno: 175whp @ 7500 RPM / 135wtq @ 7000 RPM........ERTW

2001 Toyota Highlander V6 4WD - Winter Car - 220bhp / 222tq Bone Stock Baby!
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:04 AM   #5 (permalink)
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didnt think IM made much difference without cams, etc. skunk2 would def. be my choice though nice review! have fun with it.
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Old 01-11-2007, 12:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killuminati223
anyone have an idea if this would be good on the type r? I'm thinking about ordering one here soon
Hey keep in mind skunkim in pretty much a type r ripoff if you want to go with skunk try the skunk im Pro or port out your type r
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Old 01-28-2007, 04:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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is there another I/M that skunk2 makes cause i got the Pro series on my z6. I didnt know they made another one.
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Old 01-28-2007, 06:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiceNloW
is there another I/M that skunk2 makes cause i got the Pro series on my z6. I didnt know they made another one.
I use to think the same thing cause I have Skunk2 IM and I've heard people talking bout the Pro series IM but can't fine it on their website but MY boy has one in his integra. The difference is the Pro series says that on top of it. I don't know if there is really any performance difference though.
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Old 12-01-2007, 06:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnToll View Post
Just installed the Skunk2 I/M with Hondata gasket on my B18B with the help of a shop.

The install:
Everything bolted up fine, but needed longer studs, had some on hand in the shop, so that was fine. Needed to weld shut a couple un-needed holes, and needed some longer connections here and there...the throttle body cable I think needed fabrication. All in all, could do it for a 4 hour labour charge if you just gave it to a shop. Took us a leisurely 4.

Results:
With my mods in my sig from before, the sound changed a bit to a more raw all motor sound. It screams performance. Before it was a low deep gnarly growl, which I loved, but this is really cool too.

Not a TON of loss on the low end. You don't notice unless you try to give it some in 3rd gear right after a 'usual speed' 2nd gear shift. A bit sluggish until you get to at least 5k in 3rd. No change in 1st gear performance.

2nd Gear performance is verrrry noticeable. I got an instant smile on my face after 2nd gear passed 4,000 rpm. It blew me away how much the I/M helped. A very smooth transition into more power.
Also, the engine sounds MUCH happier when its close to redline. Before I was hesitant to take it to just before redline because of the sound she made. Now it sounds beautiful.

Summary:

Butt dyno.....way more noticeable power than a CAI, or a Header on their own.
lol how does a part make different amounts of power in different gears? feels sluggish in third untill 5K but faster in second at 4K and same in first?....i dont think so. it will perform the same in any gear as long as youre at the same rpm
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Old 12-01-2007, 06:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m_kluch View Post
lol how does a part make different amounts of power in different gears? feels sluggish in third untill 5K but faster in second at 4K and same in first?....i dont think so. it will perform the same in any gear as long as youre at the same rpm
lol I was a n00b when I did that write-up. However, the exact same power in every gear at the same RPM is only theoretical. Yes, power is all intertwined as a function of angular velocity (P=T*Rpm), and since angular velocity (RPMs) of the gears are related to the number of teeth on each gear (for example, (RPM of Gear 1 / RPM of Gear 2) = (# of teeth on Gear 2 / # of teeth on Gear 1)), there are losses found, and as such the same RPMs in each gear won't actually show the same power output.

Not taking anything away from you since these losses aren't noticeable unless you're on the dyno.

What I was feeling was merely the length of the gears. Not as much fun in 3rd, because I really gotta be breaking the speed limit to see the high RPMs.

And just to add to this review, this manifold REALLY helped my motor breathe with my cams. I saw 10whp more than most people see with these cams on a similar setup. I'd like to see the new Performer X on a setup like mine.
__________________
1996 Acura Integra SE



Motor: BC0022 Cams, Crower V/T, AEM Cam Gears, Comptech Icebox, Skunk2 I/M w/ Hondata gasket, DC-S 4-2-1 Header, 2.07" Brullen Cat-Back, B&M FPR, FAL Rad/AC Fans.
Tuning: UBERDATA, FJO Racing Wideband AFR System/Gauge
Security: Computer chip ignition Immobilizer, Intrusion alarm, Glass break alarm, and of course... THE BAR!!

Old Dyno: 175whp @ 7500 RPM / 135wtq @ 7000 RPM........ERTW

2001 Toyota Highlander V6 4WD - Winter Car - 220bhp / 222tq Bone Stock Baby!
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