Compression Test Results, What Could It Be? 2000 Prelude can I still run Nitrous?

[silverlude80]

Just Did my compression test today, here are my numbers
#1 150-155
#2 170-175
#3 180-185
#4 190-195

I did not do a wet test to check the first and second cylinder, I will probably do that tommorow.
What does this mean? Is it a bad headgasket? Is it worn rings? Valves?
any help would be great.
I'm trying to throw a 75 shot instead of my 55 shot and I don't want to screw something up. My setup is good, but I did replace the headgasket a few years back with what I think was a crappy one. I'm wondering if thats it. I'm thinking about taking it to honda for a leakdown test. Also the spark plugs were showing the car is running pretty rich. I like that because its safer when I'm running the nitrous.

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My setup
2000 prelude base
I/H/E/
dyno Tuned VAFC (Running Rich while on Nitrous for Safety) around 11 a/f
ACT clutch and lightened flywheel
MSD SCI Ignition w/ blaster 2 and ngk blue wires
new Zex Spark Plugs
Zex Wet kit currently running 55 shot about 6 bottles in a couple years no problem
Dynotune bottle heater
did compression check before putting the 55 shot in, and will be doing another one before using the 75 shot
I will also be changing the fuel filter and adding a fuel gauge to make sure the pressure is up to par. Don't believe I need an fpr, but I could be wrong.

What I'm doing
want to increase to the 75 shot with the zex kit
got msd 8982 start/retard controller to retard timing 3 deg while on the juice
got msd 8969 digital rpm window switch to keep traction and cut of juice before the rev limiter

Wondering what the opinions are about how safe this will be and any other suggestions I should use to increase my odds of success. This is a daily driver and my baby, I just want more power safely.
If I had the extra money I would upgrade the fuel system, but from what I hear that is not necessary with the ludes until 100 shot.
Will probobly get a fuel safety switch and new high flow fuel pump as well as

any opinions would be great
Thanks in Advance

[VTECsqznN2O]

It could honestly be any number of things...You say you've only run 6 bottles through the motor...should have caused a problem..but it might have..dont know..as far as the gasket..why did you replace it in the first place?

[silverlude80]

Just completed the wet comp test results exactly as you said to do, here they are

Dry Wet

#1 150 175
#2 170 200
#3 185 210
#4 185 210

They all seem to be varying by around 25.
Also there is oil on the valve cover where the spark plugs install around the holes, also around the seal of the valve cover, and the distributer. The new spark plugs I installed yesterday are already black so I know the car is running really rich, I have no idea if that means anything. I have read running too rich can wach away some of the oil around the rings. On the dyno, it ran around 13's off the juice and as low as 11's on the juice. I know I'm not an expert by any means, but I really wonder about that head gasket. I replaced it when I had the 3 angle valve job done and don't remember what brand name it was. Also my buddy put it on, he did all the work for me back then because I didn't know crap. It is easily possible that he messed up the torque sequence, don't even know if he torqued them at all. He never used a manual I know that. That was a few years ago, I guess I'm lucky. I know I sound like an idiot now, but I just had no idea what I was messing with back then. I am just now catching up and learning to do my own maintenance and research. I am an electrition by trade, I worked on helicopters for the army, so I'm not an idiot, and I can learn. If I do need to replace the head gasket, how difficult is it? I will take the car to honda this week for the leakdown test. There is someone that had the exact same setup as me with more mods for the fuel system, and the exact same compression results who blew his engine on the 3rd pass w/ a 75 shot. The only difference was it was a dry kit. That got me worried as hell. He did not hit the rev limiter or anything like that. Also, how do I tighten my belts, where is the tensioner bolt? I've got the unorthodox pulley kit (I'm removing the crank pulley due to all the controversy), and Its squeeking at start up until it is warm.

Thanks again for taking the time out.

[VTECsqznN2O]

Originally Posted by silverlude80

Just completed the wet comp test results exactly as you said to do, here they are

Dry Wet

#1 150 175
#2 170 200
#3 185 210
#4 185 210

They all seem to be varying by around 25.
Also there is oil on the valve cover where the spark plugs install around the holes, also around the seal of the valve cover, and the distributer. The new spark plugs I installed yesterday are already black so I know the car is running really rich, I have no idea if that means anything. I have read running too rich can wach away some of the oil around the rings. On the dyno, it ran around 13's off the juice and as low as 11's on the juice. I know I'm not an expert by any means, but I really wonder about that head gasket. I replaced it when I had the 3 angle valve job done and don't remember what brand name it was. Also my buddy put it on, he did all the work for me back then because I didn't know crap. It is easily possible that he messed up the torque sequence, don't even know if he torqued them at all. He never used a manual I know that. That was a few years ago, I guess I'm lucky. I know I sound like an idiot now, but I just had no idea what I was messing with back then. I am just now catching up and learning to do my own maintenance and research. I am an electrition by trade, I worked on helicopters for the army, so I'm not an idiot, and I can learn. If I do need to replace the head gasket, how difficult is it? I will take the car to honda this week for the leakdown test. There is someone that had the exact same setup as me with more mods for the fuel system, and the exact same compression results who blew his engine on the 3rd pass w/ a 75 shot. The only difference was it was a dry kit. That got me worried as hell. He did not hit the rev limiter or anything like that. Also, how do I tighten my belts, where is the tensioner bolt? I've got the unorthodox pulley kit (I'm removing the crank pulley due to all the controversy), and Its squeeking at start up until it is warm.

Thanks again for taking the time out.

he may have fucked up the sequence and/or torque numbers..so I would honestly have it taken apart and done again the right way..its not a difficult job..but for someone as novice as yourself I wouldnt attempt it alone..jsut cause someone you know blew the motor doesnt mean you will..way too many factors to take into consideration..as far as tightening the belts..there arn't tensioners ont he alternator/ac/ps belts..you have to find which accessory you want to adjust..the alternator you will have to actually losten up the alternator and it swivels away from the crank to tighten it...the ac and ps i believe you do the same except they have a bolt that lets you tighten them up..i'm not to keen on the h22 accessories..so you may want to double check int he prelude forum and a manual...as far as it running 13's and 11's...with the setup you posted..you'll be lucky to hit high 13's on the bottle

[silverlude80]

Yeah, I am in complete agreement with you as there is no way to know what happened with someone else's motor, way too many variables(he doesn't even know what went wrong). I know tons of people run the 75 shot on these motors with no mods at all. If it is the head gasket, I will be changing it myself. I appreciate the advice, but one, its not in my budget to pay a grand for honda or someone else to do it, and 2 you never know if that person will do it properly either. The whole reason I started doing the work myself, is I will know its getting done. I have the manual now, and I have no choice but to do it myself. Once I have the leakdown test done this week, we will know a bit more. I know I am a novice, but the only way to learn is by doing. Is cometec a good head gasket brand? Is there a special headgasket to get for nitrous applications?

Thanks

[VTECsqznN2O]

Originally Posted by silverlude80

Yeah, I am in complete agreement with you as there is no way to know what happened with someone else's motor, way too many variables(he doesn't even know what went wrong). I know tons of people run the 75 shot on these motors with no mods at all. If it is the head gasket, I will be changing it myself. I appreciate the advice, but one, its not in my budget to pay a grand for honda or someone else to do it, and 2 you never know if that person will do it properly either. The whole reason I started doing the work myself, is I will know its getting done. I have the manual now, and I have no choice but to do it myself. Once I have the leakdown test done this week, we will know a bit more. I know I am a novice, but the only way to learn is by doing. Is cometec a good head gasket brand? Is there a special headgasket to get for nitrous applications?

Thanks

I wasn't implying that you can't do it yourself. I'd jsut advise against it. Plus, iif you have honda, or a shop do it..if something goes wrong you can go after them..if you screw up you are aced out..But if you want to go for it..by all means, have at it..as long as you have the right tools and take your time, you will be fine...as far as gaskets..I think I have a fel pro on my b16...but I honestly dont remember. and no, there is no special gasket

[silverlude80]

I don't necessarily want to do it, I'd rather have honda, but I have the manual and I'm sure I'll feel good that I did it myself. I don't really have much of a choice in the matter, finances sometimes dictate that.

Thanks

[VTECsqznN2O]

Originally Posted by silverlude80

I don't necessarily want to do it, I'd rather have honda, but I have the manual and I'm sure I'll feel good that I did it myself. I don't really have much of a choice in the matter, finances sometimes dictate that.

Thanks

oh no doubt man..been there..good luck

[afgan]

Originally Posted by silverlude80

I don't necessarily want to do it, I'd rather have honda, but I have the manual and I'm sure I'll feel good that I did it myself. I don't really have much of a choice in the matter, finances sometimes dictate that.

Thanks

i recommend you to install vacuum and air/fuel ratio gauge after you will sort compression problem out. it really helps in future to watch you motor.
p.s. also recommend check valve clearance. it may cause low compression also

[silverlude80]

Do have an a/f gauge already, and it has been recently dyno tuned running 13's N/A, and mid 11's on the nitrous. Just had the valves adjusted yesterday by honda, they were very tight aparantly. I have learned a lot in the past months thanks to researching, and these forums that I would have never known. I do have some vacuum hoses not connected to anything, but I have no idea where they go. The car runs very rich, you can pull the plugs, clean them off, drive around, pull them again, and they are black again. I'm planning on getting it to a dyno again in the near future to have it leaned out some. Obviously the zex wet kit does its job and spits plenty of full when on the nitrous. I decided to stick with the 55 shot for now as this is a daily driver and its not worth it to blow up the motor(even though I'm sure i'd be fine with those precautions). I'll wait till I can have the bottom end built and supercharge it for my next trick.

Thanks
Steve

[afgan]

Originally Posted by silverlude80

Do have an a/f gauge already, and it has been recently dyno tuned running 13's N/A, and mid 11's on the nitrous. Just had the valves adjusted yesterday by honda, they were very tight aparantly. I have learned a lot in the past months thanks to researching, and these forums that I would have never known. I do have some vacuum hoses not connected to anything, but I have no idea where they go. The car runs very rich, you can pull the plugs, clean them off, drive around, pull them again, and they are black again. I'm planning on getting it to a dyno again in the near future to have it leaned out some. Obviously the zex wet kit does its job and spits plenty of full when on the nitrous. I decided to stick with the 55 shot for now as this is a daily driver and its not worth it to blow up the motor(even though I'm sure i'd be fine with those precautions). I'll wait till I can have the bottom end built and supercharge it for my next trick.

Thanks
Steve

normally intake manifold has one spare vacuum port covered with gray cup(right behind TB),used to connect testing gauge .\all you need to do just put hose from this port through firewall and install gauge inside.or if you cant locate spare port fit tree coupler into any vacuum line.Many people say this thing useless.but if you install it corectly it gives you a lots help to watch you engine condition. With warm engine my gauge shows 22 psi on idle - thats my vacuum for good engine condition. after spary nitrous or racing i am always keeping eye on it.Any small problem inside motor will show up on gauge imediatlly.low compresion, weak ring or valve all of this things decrease vacuum dramaticly.if vacuum keeps same value and not going down after nitrous use means nothing to worry about...

[silverlude80]

I just had a valve adjustment and leakdown test done at honda yesterday to make sure everything was decent. They told me I was fine with the setup I have now(pretty knowledgable guys). Two cylinders were 5%, #1 was 10%, and #2 was 15%. Not really anything to worry about now, the valves were extremely tight as well. The blowby was in the oil cap, so its definately worn rings in those 2 cylinders. It will be fine the way it is now until I need to rebuild for the supercharger setup. Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

Steve

[VTECsqznN2O]

Originally Posted by afgan

i recommend you to install vacuum and air/fuel ratio gauge after you will sort compression problem out. it really helps in future to watch you motor.
p.s. also recommend check valve clearance. it may cause low compression also

you need a wide band gauge for this..most of the gauges that people buy are way too narrow to be of any use, on top of the fact that the ecu is constantly compensating...any change in throttle position send the gauge out of whack..and his plugs are black...so the gauge is most likely going to read rich anyway..which he already knows by the plugs...but seeming that he had it tuned, its still a little rich..but either way..

[98vtec]

15% leak is not good.