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Old 08-28-2007, 12:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1998 Idle and stalling problem

My 1998 Accord LX Coupe is doing some pretty funny things and i've been trying to find someone with the same symptoms but can't so here goes.

Firstly this winter it would throw the CEL, not sure why but we would dirve it for a day or two and the CEL would go out stay out for a while then come back on. That seemed to clear it's self up as it got warmer, plus an oil change. Then later in the winter, it would give us trouble starting, which seems to be fairly common with these accords. my mechanic friend told me that the fuel pump relay was probably going and that if it wouldn't start i should tap the dash where the relay is and that would get it going. The hard starting was that it would crank but not turn over, but if we left it for a few minutes it would start fine. Then just a few days ago I was driving down the road at about 45 when all of the sudden the engine stopped all my electrical was running but i had no tach and gas pedal would do nothing. obviously stalled I pulled the car over turned it off checked under the hood for anything obvious, nothing no smoke funny smells, nothing. so I got back in and started the car. it started alright with a little convincing, but about 2 miles down the road threw the CEL again just got the code read it reads p1381 something about the cylinder position sensor intermittent operation. Guy at autozone said it was probably a bad electrical connection or a short circuit. however now the car seems to be doing some weird things, it idles rough, it also has a strange noise on idle, it sounds like the a fan blowing, and you can only hear it from inside the car. the rough idle only happens sometime, and what it does is it drops the rpms low and then a second later it picks them back up again. I'm wondering if maybe this isn't a timing problem, belt skipped a tooth or something, the car has 109k on it and probably needs new timing belts done soon. any help would be appreciated.!! Thanks
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Old 08-28-2007, 12:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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okay had my brother call the local honda dealer. they said that that code is the cylinder position sensor. he told my brother that i probably need a new dizzy? i have no idea why that would be the problem but that could cause my problems i guess. guess we'll, see if anyone else has any experience here please post thanks
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Old 08-28-2007, 01:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the idling problem might be due to the idle air control valve. my car had this problem and i took it to the dealership and they adjust it for free. all you have to do is get a flat head screwdriver and adjust the screw on the IACV. check to make sure all your sensors are properly tight and no corrosion. this probably cause the cel to come on intermittently. hope this help
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Old 08-31-2007, 12:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It could certainly mean that the plug is firing at the wrong time in relation to piston travel, or that you aren't getting spark on a cylinder(s - if it stalls entirely). Have you tried opening up the dizzy and seeing if it's gunked, charred, or chipped? The rotor sounds like it'd be the culprit here.
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Old 09-03-2007, 10:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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so I looked at the 98 accord esm it says when diagnosing this problem it's a bad connection with the sensor. so I've got to take it apart and see if i can get signal, which mean i need an ohmmeter! ugh i hate electrical! Now I have to learn how to really use an ohmmeter. oh well guess I'll just pray she runs all the way to NH and see if i can get some help there getting this damn sensor fixed.
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Old 09-16-2007, 02:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palentyr
so I looked at the 98 accord esm it says when diagnosing this problem it's a bad connection with the sensor. so I've got to take it apart and see if i can get signal, which mean i need an ohmmeter! ugh i hate electrical! Now I have to learn how to really use an ohmmeter. oh well guess I'll just pray she runs all the way to NH and see if i can get some help there getting this damn sensor fixed.
You know I'm here for ya buddy. Just gotta get my wheel bearing installed. Remember those two screws through the brake rotors?

I hate them.
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Old 09-19-2007, 04:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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the noise is the distributor shaft bearing going bad. this causes the shaft to not rotate 100% true, increasing the air gap between all the sensors in there(tach, tdc, cps, etc) causing your problems. it may even hit the sensors eventually(when really bad) and cause a no start or stall all the time! the noise you described is exactly the noise it makes when just starting to go bad. it's usually intermittent at first, then constant, then very horrible sounding, then ---- nothing.

should the bearing seize it will destroy your camshaft, which can destroy your cylinder head or engine. ask for more info you want me to talk you head off.


the sensors are all build in and cannot be replaced separately.


my advice to you is to buy a new honda distrubutor. it's not cheap($300-$400). do not go aftermarket.
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Old 10-01-2007, 07:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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repairing

okay buying a new distributor from honda. costing me 367 for the part, is there anything else that i need to go with this or just the dizzy. i notice everywhere i look that there is an o ring that should probbly be replaced should i get this from honda as well. also when i replace the distributor i assume it's just unbolt, line up and re bolt. I'm just a little concerned cause i know it is connected to the camshaft, right? well anyways any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-01-2007, 04:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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hopefully the new dizzy comes with that o-ring. otherwise get it, it's only a few bucks if that.

there is a slot in the cam that the prong from the dizzy slides into. it is slightly offset. it is possible to put it in 180 degrees off. so pay attention when you remove the dizzy - try not to rotate it. install the new dizzy the same way.

it is possible to notice the offset in the cam and on the distributor too.

if you put it in backwards the car won't start.

there are only 3 bolts holding the dizzy to the head, and a few connectors.

you should be able to transfer the guts to the new dizzy(ignitor, coil, coil shield, etc)
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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okay got the new dizzy on and installed. here's the bummer part, didn't fix anything, same problems low idle stalling and that weird noise, which now that it's louder seems to be coming from my alternator. and the check engine light which i haven't gotten read yet. any suggestions?
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Old 10-02-2007, 04:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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well, the new dizzy with it's new sensors fixed the cyp code. that's good.

as far as the noise goes, it needs to be diagnosed. the only common noise problem is the dizzy bearing. uncommon noise problems can be any of the accessories.
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Fixed

Okay, don't have real tools or a garage to try and diagnose things so I took it to my local Stealership (UGH!) and had them diagnose it. 99 bucks for a diagnostic and an hour later the guy calls me. "Hi this is Joe from Ganley Honda, is this Raylin" I of course answer yes he proceeds to ask me if i was having the cyp sensor code before the new dizzy install. I say yes, he then says, "Well it looks like it could be a computer problem sounds like were going to have to install a new ECM" as this point i point out that if my computer is making a loud humming noise on idle than i've got a seriously fucked computer. He then says, "Noise on idle?" and i reply "Yeah you know that thing i brought it in to be diagnosed for?" well long story short he determined that it was the alternator changed it out and BAM problems solved no CEL no idle problems and runs GREAT.

Thank you Everyone who helped me i appreciate all the assistance!

Cliffnotes

Took car to Dealer
Dealer forgot to tell the tech what was wrong
got new alternator
fixed all problems!
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Old 10-08-2007, 04:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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except for the cyp code. a bad alternator can't set that code.
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