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f22b1 vtec car build up need help

12K views 54 replies 9 participants last post by  nusdogg 
#1 ·
i got a honda accord 94 5speed. with a f22B1 vtec motor its all oem the only thing that iput in is a cold air intake im trying to make the car faster with out putting a turbo in for now or changing motor. anybody that can help?
 
#2 ·
Again, welcome to Superhonda. Please read or at least skim the forum rules. Double posting is against them. This is not some super populated forum. This is a double-edged sword. It's good because your threads haven't been hijacked and whored up, and probably won't be. Probably. It's bad bc we don't have a tremendous amount of traffic, therefore you have to be patient for an answer most of the time.

As I 'said' on your other thread though, this question is entirely too general. There are dozens of bolt-ons and free mods you can do before resorting to forced induction or a swap. They are ALL detailed and about every question answered, in this forum, already. Scroll down from your thread, and try using the search button if that doesn't find you anything. Best of luck with your project.:)
 
#6 ·
Not very knowledgable on H-series, the US BB2 prelude had an H22A, but I'm not sure of which permutation of the motor is suitable.
You could always do an B18 LS/VTEC, it's cheap and reliable, b18b1 block, b-series VTEC head, cost about a grand, if you don't wanna pay for a complete swap, that is.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
#8 ·
Maybe, but I was thinking that the additional low-end Tq you pick up when building an LSV would compensate... I've never seen it done, but it's a cheap build that may enable him to allow for boost down the road to make up for the added curb weight. The CD6 chassis weighs in at 2,800lbs, so it's still about 300lbs lighter than a BB2 Prelude. Hell, the GS-R and Type R Integra's weigh in at over 2,600, so an LS-V doesn't seem to be a bad idea in the accord.
Is your accord a coupe or sedan? Not that it makes a real difference, my FA5 weighs only 57lbs more than the coupe, and some swear it was a better weight balance to throw around than the coupes, who knows
 
#9 ·
I didn't know they were that close in CW to the tegs. Learn something new every day. Personally, since the mounts and wiring and everything can be essentially stock swap-over or no issues at all (I don't know, but I now know a tiny bit about the JDM ones), I'd want the bigger one (2.2 or 2.3).
 
#10 ·
Yeah personally, if I were in his shoes, I'd opt for the H22 swap, it is pretty much plug and play in the CD6, I did some Googling LOL

Here's an H22A swap for $2,099
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30017

and here's a a complete red top swap, 220hp/161tq, has everything you need, $3,299
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30019

Anybody have anything to add? I am unsure as to why the huge price difference, just sharing what I found :)
 
#12 ·
True, you can sell a butt plug with a "Stanley OEM Honda" stamp on it, and people will fight to the death for it :(

20 more HP, 2 less ft/lb, for $1,300? No thanks, just get the USDM BB1 H22A swap for $2,100 and call it done. There's plenty of aftermarket to make up the difference you lose by not dishing out the J-spec motor.
 
#15 ·
You know you can run an H series head on the F series block right?
 
#22 · (Edited)
smt199216 said:
Apor1a... So u will consider for me to get the b18b1 block and use the top of my vtec... I also heard that if i change to bigger pistons it might help a bit but wat would be more effective nd price wise do u now by any chance and thanks for the help
for the love of god do not put a b-series into an accord. And you cannot put an f-vtec head onto a b18 block if that's what you're asking

drop an h22a in there and call it a day if you're going to swap. no bastardized components and you'll be at 200whp with boltons


H22 head onto F22 block - Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums

and tony
g22cd5 said:
ok well doing a g22 swap is not easy. I know from experience. It's not worth the hassle. If your plan is a cheap turbo build this is the way to go. But don't expect it to last long maybe 6-12months if your easy on it...and who is easy on a turbo car. NO one.

LOL no you lose compression when doing this swap and you MIGHT gain 5hp for $300-400 head swap.... You go from 8:8:1 to 8:2:1 which is great for turbo…but crap for all motor. Also you have to know that the red line is much shorter than the h22 so you will not get the full potential of the cams or vtec.

If you have all the parts laying around like I did then go for it. But use this build for ONLY a "fun" car. Daily driving this build will cost you more money than anything.
But if you DEAD set on this swap go over to cb7tuner.com and read. They have ALL of the info you need and then some. Few guys on the site are even running g22 swaps in their cb7s.
 
#37 ·
for the love of god do not put a b-series into an accord.
x2! Lol. I guess they've never heard of "No replacement for displacement."

So just motor or transmission nd motor
If you do just an H22A long block re-using your F22B1 Trans, you'll lose the full potential of the H22. Why? The gear ratio of the F trans when mated to an H22 is long/tall; as a results, slower acceleration, but it's good for your gas mileage. Now, if you do the full H22 complete swap including the H22 trans, you'll see decent power out of the H22 cause the gearings are short meaning faster acceleration.

So whatever your goal is, do what you gotta do.
 
#28 ·
damn darkness you smart!! LOL
Hell, I was just going off of weight of the accord vs the cost of an LS-V. I don't know anybody but one guy who is into H-series. I've heard that the rod ratio in the H22 is bad for boosting w/o beefed internals, that's all I got.
I guess just a straight swap is the most sensible option, since it is still an accord and it is still quite a bit heavier than any Civic (sans the 8th and up) and it's gonna be a daily driver.
People still run the JR blower on the H22? I remember reading an article about 10 years ago when the whole sport compact scene exploded about how much fun the BB2 Prelude's were with that S/C, but I haven't seen or heard of anybody running supercharged in a long time. But I digest.. :)
 
#29 ·
damn darkness you smart!! LOL
Hell, I was just going off of weight of the accord vs the cost of an LS-V. I don't know anybody but one guy who is into H-series. I've heard that the rod ratio in the H22 is bad for boosting w/o beefed internals, that's all I got.
I guess just a straight swap is the most sensible option, since it is still an accord and it is still quite a bit heavier than any Civic (sans the 8th and up) and it's gonna be a daily driver.
People still run the JR blower on the H22? I remember reading an article about 10 years ago when the whole sport compact scene exploded about how much fun the BB2 Prelude's were with that S/C, but I haven't seen or heard of anybody running supercharged in a long time. But I digest.. :)
J/w do you know why? How "beefed" are we talking about?

Don't worry about R/S becuase there are many other factors that are more important for using R/S ratio than simply whether or not to turbo.

basically on paper low R/S ratio increase piston side loading so theortically you can you wear the engine out faster with extreme force being more extered to one side. The problem with this though is that alougth it proven that side loading is increased, it's not a reason to not do it. The analogy I use is, excess neg camber can theoritcally cause uneven tire wear but for some,they may not see it EVER. Even if they did, it's not really a reason to not give your car that crazy ultra low stance.

If your going to discuss R/S ratio, also take into consideration mean piston speed, dwell, cylinder pressures rod angles, and usually RPM ranges (althought this is susceptible to the build configuration and material used).Theres probably more instance where R/S is important but like I said, not to just to determine how reliable it is wh en boosted
 
#35 ·
I don't know. I imagine that if your trans will bolt up, and you like the gear ratio, then that's your decision. I do know you should use punctuation man. I read your posts, and it's already hard to comprehend. Throw in the fact that you use zero punctuation, and you can understand why you're not getting a lot of answers. Just a thought man. Not bashing you.:)
 
#38 ·
Ok koo and the punctuation and spelling is because im use to texting. One other question would a catalyst be good for the exhaust system or it wont make a difference. Ima order some mufflers and the car has a straight pipe with no catalyst with it be better with one or no
 
#41 ·
Dude you're not the first person to try and say they post with no punctuation because that's how they text. That only makes me feel sorry for your friends and family that you text with. Don't you want people to understand you? Is it really saving you any time at all to type worse than my five year old godson?
 
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