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h22 swap into 2000 accord?

23K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  mcdavidbranson 
#1 ·
I have a 2000 accord ex 4dr 5speed,i am wanting to put a h22 and have been tryn to research for a while but alot of the things i read are for older accords..ive looked at a few sir obd2 motors and im wondering how much engineering will need to be done?i know most of it is gonna be wiring i believe but im hoping i can get by without doin much by getting the obd2 motor considering my accord is obd2?and like i said most of what ive read has been on older accords so i need to know what axels i will need,can i use the ones in my car?ive swapped motors before but never went to a diff engine so if there is other things id need to know please tell thanks!!
 
#3 ·
It would be an easier swap if you get the newer H22 that is already rigged for OBD2 sensors. I wouldn't expect the same results the older CB chassis guys were getting. Their cars, especially the coupes, are quite a bit lighter than your CG. It'll be a bit more fun to drive but your car won't be even remotely quick just with that swap. If I were you and still gave a shit about Hondas I'd rig up a K24 swap.

A FWD sedan really isn't the best platform to start with modding. Keep it as a beater, get something else.
 
#4 ·
Yea i know ive thought about doin a k swap but this would be the first real swap ive done putting a diff motor in and the k from what ive read and looked at would be pretty exxpensive..im not tryna get into too much crazy wiring lol but thats the whole reason i wanna do it i know its a fourdoor an im not gonna be tryna do any real running with it i just dont see any since in doin cosmetics if im not gonna put a lil pep to go with..i believe imma go with the euro r accord motor.from everything ive read i should be able to use my axles thats in my car too? I plan throwing some headers exhaust on in the process of the swap so its not a bitch later...so about the wiring?it shouldnt be too bad then maybe extend somthen here and there?hopefully dont have to change any connectors?(wishful thinkn)im jus assuming cuz everyone says the h and f series are prtty compatable with eachother?im gonna be doin this whole swap myself so yea ill prob be posting to here as im doin it espec if i run into somthen i cant figure out so yea any info would be appriciated...
 
#5 ·
Well seems like you're set on doing this and didn't read the last sentence in my previous post. The H and F series components are similar. When I had my old '01 Accord I made a "G23" by keeping my F23 block and using the H23 non-VTEC head for my turbo setup a couple years ago. Personally, I'd just boost the F23 you have. I'm not too sure about the axles, I didn't change transmissions, I kept the F-series gearbox so I could spend more time in boost.
 
#6 ·
I'm Going to assume that you currently have an F23A currently. I'm not 100% positive but I'm pretty sure you can even re-use your current tranny. As long as that's the case you shouldn't have any axel issues. Even with a new trans the current axels should be fine.

The wiring should be pretty close as well. I did 8 H22a swaps on Preludes and the only issue was adding the vtec solenoid wiring and lengthening a few wires for a few of the sensors. Well and rewiring the distributor to use the internal coil.

I think as long as you get an OBD2 Engine it should be a cake walk. You may want to double check on the motor mounts, i did read one article that with a 5th gen he needed an aftermarket rear mount but that may have been because he was originally an automatic.

Are you having issues with your current motor? I was personally thinking of giving a G23 build a shot but that loss in compression just makes it pretty much worthless on an NA engine unless you do some heavy modification which defeats my intentions. Im just going to hold out until this engine takes a dump on me then H22a Swap. Just fyi i have a 1994.

The Swap wont turn your car into a street monster but you will definitely feel the difference on the butt dyno. I miss the way the h22a kicks when you hit vtec and trying to stay in the High Rpms so you don't drop out of vtec on the shifts. This F22a1 is... :(. haha. I installed a vtec light to make sure the car was kicking into vtec and this econo vtec is sad, its basically always on when my foot is on the gas.
 
#7 ·
I'm Going to assume that you currently have an F23A currently. I'm not 100% positive but I'm pretty sure you can even re-use your current tranny. As long as that's the case you shouldn't have any axel issues. Even with a new trans the current axels should be fine.

The wiring should be pretty close as well. I did 8 H22a swaps on Preludes and the only issue was adding the vtec solenoid wiring and lengthening a few wires for a few of the sensors. Well and rewiring the distributor to use the internal coil.

I think as long as you get an OBD2 Engine it should be a cake walk. You may want to double check on the motor mounts, i did read one article that with a 5th gen he needed an aftermarket rear mount but that may have been because he was originally an automatic.

Are you having issues with your current motor? I was personally thinking of giving a G23 build a shot but that loss in compression just makes it pretty much worthless on an NA engine unless you do some heavy modification which defeats my intentions. Im just going to hold out until this engine takes a dump on me then H22a Swap. Just fyi i have a 1994.

The Swap wont turn your car into a street monster but you will definitely feel the difference on the butt dyno. I miss the way the h22a kicks when you hit vtec and trying to stay in the High Rpms so you don't drop out of vtec on the shifts. This F22a1 is... :(. haha. I installed a vtec light to make sure the car was kicking into vtec and this econo vtec is sad, its basically always on when my foot is on the gas.
That's why you boost it, essentially the sole purpose of that build.
 
#8 ·
Yea i know it wont be a beast but it will deff be fun to drive!no im not having troubles from my motor i jus always wanted to do a h22 swap.i used to have a prelude and was wanting to do it but i ended up wrecking it and im kinda glad i didnt do it to that car after reading cuz it would of been a nightmare for a guy like me who hasnt messed with wiring a whole lot as it was a auto trans. This car has 236k on it but itsbeen well takn care of and mostly insterstate miles,and i only have like 1200 bucks in it thanks to a good buddy who sold it to me.but i basicly tryna make somthen sweet with a bit of pep to last for a couple years till i can build up n get me a nice truck again then ill do some serious modding to this car.so yea ive got everything picked out some wheels with rubber just waiting for better weather to start ording cuz i dont have a garage my motor is gonna have the lsd trans and ecu with it and h22 harness. And yes from what ive seen u that trans mount is only if u got auto if u got stick u only gotta mod the driver side mount
 
#9 ·
Of course ill be repainting all the tan when i get it lined out.. gonna have some 16 inch koing rims,not to savy on lo pro sizes although i think i kniw what i need pointers would be cool.gonna lower it but idk what i should go with i live in wv so i dont want it real low lmao ull fuck it up around here im thinkn a inch and a half.hell idk imma kinda jus gonna wing it, i figure as long as i plan the swap well everything else shouldnt be bad.ill just have to find someone who knows a bit about tuning and it willbe good..
 

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#11 ·
Put the stock tail lights back on. Other than that the paint is whatever you want to do with it man. I've always been one for OEM appearance myself.
 
#12 · (Edited)
i would avoid a g23 or a kswap at all costs. the most cost effective boost in power would be getting another f-series and turboing it or swapping in an f20/h22/h23. k24's are cheap but you would still need another $3-4K in parts/labor just to get a stock kseries in there not including the price of the actual long block. just the tuning hardware will net you $1200-1300 dollars. that's not even getting it tuned.

g23's are "meh" sure they can make power if done right but to many variables with reliability and precise power output. it's not like the f20/h22/h23 are expensive enough to warrant a g23. it's not like an lsv where they make sense due to price of dohc v b-series engines which are like $2500-3500K from a distributor.

i would just do an f20/h22/h23 if i was on a budget. they drop right into the car and with an rbc intake manifold and nice header you're looking at 200-210whp on a stock engine. My f20 made 184whp/147wtq with just an intake and it's only a 2 liter. $600 long block from the distributor. h series are similarly priced since they are essentially the same platform with more displacement.
 
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