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Old 12-08-2007, 10:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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surging idle

i have an 94 accord lx and the idle bounces from 1500 to 2000 and i already ripped off thr iacv and fitv and checked them out they were fine but idk if my iacv was supposed to open more than an 1/8 of an in. when tested. i didnt check my EGR valve. what else do u think it can be?
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Old 12-08-2007, 11:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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EGR wouldn't cause a high idle problem. When you removed the IAC and FITV, did you replace the coolant and bleed the air from the system via the nipple on top of the thermostat housing. Also pull the 7.5 amp backup fuse for a minute to reset the ECU.

The FITV is a common cause of problems, along with a dirty throttle plate, and dirty IAC. If you let the car warm up to temperature and cover the FITV port (bottom hole) in front of the throttle plate with your finger, the engine should run unchanged and there should be a very slight vacuum on there.

Here is a good procedure to clean and adjust the FITV:

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1564019
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Old 12-08-2007, 11:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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SEARCH!!! this has been covered numerous times..

any of these can contribute to a fluctuating idle. you more than likely have a vacuum leak, are low on coolant, or need to clean the iacv.

-remove the intake and thoroughly cleaned the throttle body with tb cleaner.
-removed the iacv, clean the mesh screen, and "massage" the solenoid. if the solenoid is working perfectly, it should operate when connected directly to the battery. (you will hear it "click")
-reset the ecu.
-checked the idle adjustment. is it adjusted appropriately?
-flush the coolant and kept a close eye for any coolant leaks. is the system leaking at all?
-check all the hoses going from/to the throttle body, intake manifold and intake for vacuum leaks, as well as the tb gasket. To verify a vacuum leak, while the car is idling, place the palm of your hand tightly over the throttle body so that it is air tight. the engine should stall out within a couple of seconds. if not, you most likely have a vacuum leak.
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Old 12-08-2007, 11:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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x2 on everything said, no the EGR would not cause it since the EGR only opens up at cruising
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Old 12-11-2007, 08:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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k i cleaned it and the car idles better now but it surges in the lower rpms and when im cruising or at a stop light and shift into N it idles at like 1250 sooo i should adjust the fitv down a bit?
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Old 12-11-2007, 10:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Tighten it down until it is snug and your problems should be solved.

Just as a warning, I did this on my car and it worked for a while, but the idle problem eventually came back. I ended up replacing the valve (~$50 part) and the problem hasn't returned.
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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should i boil it first? and my iacv only opend like 1/8th of an inch when i tested it is that normal?
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Old 12-13-2007, 03:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94hondalx View Post
i have an 94 accord lx and the idle bounces from 1500 to 2000 and i already ripped off thr iacv and fitv and checked them out they were fine but idk if my iacv was supposed to open more than an 1/8 of an in. when tested. i didnt check my EGR valve. what else do u think it can be?
my 94 ex did that twice, once it was the thermostat, and 2nd time it was the IAC, which I cleaned. The first time tho, it only did it after I got off the freeway, which is when the stuck open thermostat would allow the coolant temps to drop too low...
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Old 12-13-2007, 04:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaHonda View Post
Tighten it down until it is snug and your problems should be solved.

Just as a warning, I did this on my car and it worked for a while, but the idle problem eventually came back. I ended up replacing the valve (~$50 part) and the problem hasn't returned.
I usually avoid modifying anything and try to focus on fixing the issue instead of just offering blank temporary solutions which would lead to ultimate replacement.
So you tightened down an adjustment all the way but didn't fix the problem, to fix the problem you just replaced the whole unit.
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Old 12-13-2007, 05:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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well i just cleaned the crap out of my IACV and the FITV for the second time and tightend down the fitv until it closed then put them both on started the car and it idles around 1000 and dosent really surge, it does only when hot and i stop and put it in park and tap the throttle, itll rev. up to 1500 and slowly down to 1000 then quickliy up to 15 and down back up then down to 1g then its fine.
when im driving around town all day ill occasionally put it in N and it'll idle up to 15 and stay, and when im driving and just let off the gas itll do like a manual does and kinda rev but slow down then it kinda coasts then the idle will pick up and will go the same speed as before i let off the gas. so itll slow down then pick back up. ?????? any ideas??
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Old 12-13-2007, 05:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I ended up replacing the FITV with a new one about 6 months later.

The tightening down fixed the problem for a while, so I knew what the problem was. When it returned, I knew replacement the FITV would solve the problem.

I hate throwing parts at the car, so I waited to see if the problem would return. If it had never returned, then I would have never replaced the FITV.

I was typing the above part, and you posted.

Did the FITV screw work its way up since you tightened it last? If it did, then replace the unit.

A quick test would be to let the car warm up and pull off the intake hose and cover the lower port on the throttle body with your finger. If the idle rests at 750, then your FITV is still allowing air into the engine and needs to be replaced.
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Old 12-13-2007, 05:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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u seemto know some about the FITV. how does it work?
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Old 12-14-2007, 12:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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When your engine is cold, the FITV allows extra air to enter the engine by bypassing the throttle body to help heat up the engine faster.

The coolant temperature controls that valve. As the coolant warms up it heats up the FITV. The FITV has a wax pellet inside that expands as the car warms up and basically shuts that valve (and air flow) to the engine at operating temperature.

The o-ring part of that valve could be bad and not create a tight seal against the valve body and cause an air leak. Unfortunately, Honda doesn't sell that o-ring. The valve could have become loose and basically stay in the open position all of the time. If that fix that you tried didn't help, then replace the entire valve. Its pretty cheap and a simple job to do.

If covering that lower port with your finger corrects the idle, then I would go ahead and replace the FITV, since tightening it down didn't solve the problem.
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Old 12-14-2007, 12:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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yeah i see now. it did help alot but still surges when warm it only surges like 3 or 4 times then stops, so do u think i should just replace both the IACV and the FITV?
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Old 12-14-2007, 01:28 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Just do the FITV, since it is a lot less expensive than the IAC. Typically the FITV is what causes the problem when the engine is warm.
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