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Turbo build F23

23K views 28 replies 7 participants last post by  sosracer 
#1 ·
So I'm picking up a F23 engine with about 140k on it for cheap and going to rebuild the thing, and add a turbo. I'm not going for crazy numbers (looking for 230-270whp) so I'm going to stick with stock pistons and rods, but I am looking to upgrade the valvetrain, maybe swap out the cam with a regrind. Anyone have suggestions for a mild turbo cam that they've had success with?
 
#2 ·
Scratch the valvetrain, do pistons and rods. Add in headstuds and a new headgasket too.

While you do the rods you can do main bearings. Or since your getting thus engine cheap,just run it till she pukes, use extra money on hardware such as an ostrich ecu etc.
 
#10 ·
If you aren't shooting for high numbers, why not go with shotpeened rods for a cheaper stronger then stock setup, they should work with the power goal range he wants. Then dish out the money for forged pistons.

And please for the mother of God, don't get an eBay turbo kit, they are way to iffy to get a good one, and the numbers they say it produces are highly inflated. The piping and intercooler are your safest bet. Pick up a nice cast iron turbo manifold, or try converting your own. Then piece everything else together from other cars, an Eclipse turbo and SRT-4 BOV, and your set.And can be had done for cheap. If you are a smart shopper and have patience, you can get all of this and a turbo rebuild kit for $350. It'll probably outperform and be more reliable then an eBay turbo kit.
 
#11 ·
Pick up a nice cast iron turbo manifold, or try converting your own. Then piece everything else together from other cars, an Eclipse turbo and SRT-4 BOV, and your set.And can be had done for cheap. If you are a smart shopper and have patience, you can get all of this and a turbo rebuild kit for $350. It'll probably outperform and be more reliable then an eBay turbo kit.
I'll probably do this.. yes the kit was ebay. should i swap in a f20b for this or rebuild the f23?
 
#12 ·
umm you don't just want any eclipse turbo.... you want the 1st turbo 14b not the crappy 2nd gen turbo t25. Or just get an evo 16g....but honestly you can just swap in an f20b or h23a for cheap and have 200 hp out of the box.

H23A DOHC VTEC Engine only 97+ - Honda & Acura


$845.00
 
#13 ·
ya i was lookin at the f20b.. i'd lose 5-10 torque, but if i do the turbo setup as well that can easily be made up. was lookin to spend about $800 in mods. and if i can get the f20b $550 approx from jdmtiger, and piece together a "junkyard" turbo build, it looks doable

And besides that, the f20b swap looks simpler. drop in, plug in ecu, and extend a few sensor wires.(simplified version) Beats ordering custom mounts IMO
 
#15 ·
It makes sense, it's not too crazy. If your using aftermarket cams you don't want valve float with higher lift at higher rpms so you get stronger springs but stronger springs can damage valves. Upgraded valve rain is recommended with cams but like Marques said, stock cams should be good enough. Even a stock bottom end is fine for those power levels

You don't NEED h beams I beams are good enough, again at those power levels. Plus plenty of cars stock tbottom end can handle 500hp have I beam. It's a turbo, your getting high cylinder pressures regardless. I'm not saying I beams are better, but i wouldn't run out and but hm just because they're thicker.

If you want up grades to go with a turbo build you should probably do bottom end. Then figure out what turbo your going to run, I'd probably get adjustable cam gears, then if you want more power do the entire valve train. but this is my opinion. NA, you build the motor with cams in mind. FI your build it to support the turbo, it's shouldn't just be thought of as an "add-on" that's why people have 400hp at 6k and 150 at 2k. But this is just my opinion
 
#16 ·
You don't NEED h beams I beams are good enough, again at those power levels. Plus plenty of cars stock tbottom end can handle 500hp have I beam. It's a turbo, your getting high cylinder pressures regardless. I'm not saying I beams are better, but i wouldn't run out and but h beam just because they're thicker.
I only say that because if he's gonna buy forged rods, get h beams. They are far better suited for that engine, and shouldn't cost much more if any at all. Its not about thickness. It about cross sectional material and the forces applied, h beams are stronger for compressive loads, where I beams are better for high rpm
 
#18 ·
now for tuning.. since i cant do obd1 all the time because of NY's state inspections, (they plug into the obd2 port and read the ecu..) is it possible to run an obd1 p28 tuned, then when inspection time comes around, swap the obd2 stock ecu back in?

There is a obd2-1 harness which'll allow you to plug in the older ecu.. I'd imagine its a simple plug and play on those, but just wondered if its possible or as simple as it sounds. obd2 doesnt have much tuneability from what I've researched
 
#19 ·
I never had any experience in this. You can do a general rsearch to see what other people do. Its not important as to the make of the car, as long as its 0bd2 its the same concept from car to car. Maybe you should become friendly with the techs, maybe bring em a case or something so you can do a lick and stick. But there are others way but being 96+ its automatically more difficult

Option 1. get plug and play harness. Have your factory ECU and your chipped ecu. Then once you get there unplug your harness plug in the ECU

Option 2. Hopefully find someone who can give you stickers and never unplug anything

Option 3. (This is what im doing for my neon). Running a Megasquirt ECU parallel to your stock ECU. So megasquirt only controls fuel (and spark if you desire) and your stock ECU controls everything else

Option 4 Just run off of a piggyback. Though its nothing compared to an eeprom tune, where you run off your own adjusted values, its still better than nothing

You can also maybe do a "modified version of optoin 1, and if your car cant run of a stock ECU maybe get an AFC at least so you dump fuel into your engine. Megasquirt can also run as a piggyback setup or a "standalone"
 
#24 ·
Well regardless what car you choose, if its 0bd2, your going to run into the same problems. Also depending on how heavily you mod the car, im not sure how well its going to run off a stock map, stock timing, set to receive and send factory set values (injectors, spark plugs, gas, vaccuum.etc..). It might though, without giving you any trouble, again i havent had experience with this, but just something to look into or at least be aware of.
 
#29 ·
discovered 6 bolt 4g63 pistons with the 0.060" overbore are 86mm. Compression height is 35mm / 5mm taller than stock, so it looks like a custom connecting rod is in order, from 141 to 136 long. (reduce length of rod to account for increased comp height of piston) So would this setup work? Or is there a reason it wouldnt?
 
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