Brake Fade?

[canadian1986]

some of you may remember my RC10GT had mishap which caused the throttle servo to seize up. I went out and bought a new futaba servo and rigged that up to work, however, it never worked seamlessly and I wasn't completely satisfied with the way the throttle was moving.

Anyways, i emailed Team Associated when this happened and never received a respone. But a couple weeks later, to my surprise a brand new throttle servo showed up in the mail for free!! I am really impressed with Team Associated as of now.


The Problem: since the futaba didn't work perfectly i decided to revert back to the servo they sent me. I put it on and it was just like stock and it worked perfectly. However, I am having trouble with the brakes. I have it positioned so that they are applied slightly at idle and release as soon as the throttle moves. When starting the brakes are strong and can lock the rear tires up. But near the end of a tank of fuel, they seem much weaker and the truck takes a while to stop

My question is: do these brakes naturally fade when they are used a lot and heat builds up? It has just a standard fiber disc brake

[mike_sho]

Sweet yeah told yah the stock servo would save you.

Brakes can fade. Normally fiber disc should be good....but you might want to look into an upgrade part. Speaking with a hobby shop or some online searching might help you.

You might want to even search brake fade rc10gt or whatever in google and see what comes up. Im sure if youve had it...someone else out there has.

I had fade with a plastic brake that I had...when upgrading it was a fiber disc for the option part and afterwards perfect braking always and the disc is still just as thick as it was day one.

Another thing is the part that its pressing against is plastic perhaps and that could be heating up and then giving some flex/play making it so its not soo strong.

You could try making it so the brakes dont lock up. You kinda dont want them to lock anyway to save the tires and prevent out of control sliding.

Good luck.

[canadian1986]

cool, thanks for the help

[kommon_sense]

stock servoes suck for throttle/braking. You can get the entry level hi-tec metal gear servos (605MG is great) for relatively cheap and they are even rebuildable in case you manage to strip one. These things had more than enough clamping power to stop my serpent impact at the end of the straights.

1 - You should never have the linkage set to have brakes engaged at idle.
2 - Check the brake disc for any oil or anything other type of contamination. It could be coming from the fuel tank or exhaust.

I used to have an rc10gt, but its been a while so I can't remember how it is laid out. I think that they came with fiber discs. If not, then definately get one.

If you get a MG servo, don't go too crazy with high-torque ones. Too much and you can rip the linkage right off the carburetor.

[illusion]

Fiber disks help a ton. In my quest to get my heavy ass t-maxx hauled down I tried everything under the sun. Dual discs, the robinson setup, one with CF shoes, then finally got a regular fiber disc with stock shoes, slapped on a Hitec 5645MG 168oz beast. It took me a few to adjust the ABS and my brake curve, but it stops on a dime with zero fade now.

It's sad I just bought a Jato and that thing stops like magic, no fade, very predictable, it also halls soem serious arse.

[kommon_sense]

The hi-tec mg servos are great for throttle/brakes, just avoid trying to use them for steering Also another reason why I like the low-torque MG servos is because if they are too strong, then you can not use a throttle return spring on them.

[canadian1986]

the rc10 has a fiber disc, but it just doesn't seem to clamp down very hard, it seems pretty finicky too since i have to adjust it everytime i drive it

[kommon_sense]

You can adjust the length of the brake linkage to give the throttle/brake servo a little more leverage, but an upgraded servo is really the best way to go.