I asked this question before and I didn't get a response because it was already deep into one thread probably, but here it goes again. I don't know a hell of alot about R/C cars but I am sure it could be explained to me. I got a Traxxas R/C car for real cheap, knowing that the motor didn't run, But I bought it because it already had everything I needed to start out in nitro R/C like the remote, servos wheels tires, body etc etc everything. So, I took the TRX .15 completely apart, cleaned it with a toothbrush and tried to set the carb up. I was spinning the ez-start with a battery charger and the motor sputtered and popped a couple times like it was about to start. The glow-plug works, and so does the glowplug warmer. I am pretty sure just the carb settings are messed up because everything looked fine inside the motor. I put on a new headgasket, the little ring and bought some new glowplugs, new fuel and have been trying to get it to fire, trying a bunch of different carb settings but it won't fire up. So does anyone known any good sites, or can anyone tell me the right carb settings to get this thing to fire up?
i never took the piston/crank assembly out. I just looked at it real closely. Looked at the tolerances, etc. feels like the motor has good compression.
Mods: AEM Intake & Cam Sprockets , RC Throttle Body, Greddy SS Header , RSR Exhaust , Carsound Cat , ACT Clutch & Fly, NGK 8mm Blue Wires, JDM Type-S Valve Cover , Koni Yellow Shocks , RSR Down Springs, Nuespeed Short Shift Adapter, CF Dashkit, CF
All you need to start a motor is.
1. Pressure from the exhaust, causing pressure in your tank and fuel flow (make sure the tubing is of right size as well).
2. New glow plug and enough electrical power to make it red (take out of car and check this to see if the glow-plug gets red)
3. New fuel
4. Enough air getting to the engine
5. Correct carb setting , basically your air/fuel ratio.
Get all this good and it will start.
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Mods: Do-Luck Body Kit, Random 17"'s, 93 Interior,SR coming soon!
If you have the manual it should help. On your bigger screw in the carb setting (air fuel mixture) Tighten it down till it is snug then back it out 2 and a half turns. That is a basic setting. The smaller screw is a idle screw. Take off you filter and turn on your truck. Let off the throttle and you should have a small openning you can see, make sure that the slide carb is not completley closed or else your not getting enough air. Make sure when u put the truck in full brake that it is not closing off all of the air to the carb. Take out your glow plug and hook it to the igniter to make sure the plug is glowing nice and bright. Unhook the tube from your pipe and blow into it. This will prime it. You should be able to fire it up now. If it is cold out it wont fire unless it is warm. Warm the engine with a blow dryer or heat gun. Hope this helps
If you have the manual it should help. On your bigger screw in the carb setting (air fuel mixture) Tighten it down till it is snug then back it out 2 and a half turns. That is a basic setting. The smaller screw is a idle screw. Take off you filter and turn on your truck. Let off the throttle and you should have a small openning you can see, make sure that the slide carb is not completley closed or else your not getting enough air. Make sure when u put the truck in full brake that it is not closing off all of the air to the carb. Take out your glow plug and hook it to the igniter to make sure the plug is glowing nice and bright. Unhook the tube from your pipe and blow into it. This will prime it. You should be able to fire it up now. If it is cold out it wont fire unless it is warm. Warm the engine with a blow dryer or heat gun. Hope this helps
HEY! thanks alot man. I heated it up with a heat gun and tried out all of mike and your tips and it finally bogged up a few times and then just finally kicked and fired up. I guess I just wasn't doing everything right. I think the idle might have been set alittle high at first anyway, because I didn't have it in the car, I just had it clamped onto my workbench with power supply, and the fuel tank off the body sitting there and tried 2 and a half turns and it sounded like it was boggin pretty nasty when i first tried it, so I turned it in about 3/4 of a turn and it sounded pretty good. I bet its just because it was alittle cold in my garage, its heated but still not that warm probably only like 60 degrees in there with the heater on. and yes it was difficult to keep it running by using my fingers to control the throttle. thanks alot guys, rep.
Mods: Do-Luck Body Kit, Random 17"'s, 93 Interior,SR coming soon!
i shoulda looked and noticed you were from NY. Alot of people come into my shop with the same problem. They get thoose cool vehicles for x-mas but they wont start. All it is, is they dont really wanna fire up without being heated up first from the cold and alot of there times its just the settings are off a little bit from where they should be. 2.5 turns out is about the average for a starting point but with the cold weather around here nothing really wants to work properly.
Mods: Bottle Fed B16A 13.23@101.5 on I,H,E and a 50 shot
poor dylans car wont start...haha..sounds like some of your real cars bro...lol
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Kevin
Dynamic Mayhem Motorsports
1990 Civic Hatch w/ Bottle Fed B16 - Trailered as of 12/15/06
1991 Acura Integra - My new daily driver http://www.myspace.com/vtecsqznn2o "I have returned many times to honour the valiant men who died…every man who set foot on Omaha Beach was a hero."-Lieutenant General Omar Bradley
Mods: AEM SR intake, Greddy header, Greddy Evo2 cat back exhaust, Carsound high flow cat, ACT stage 2 clutch, ACT 8.5lb flywheel, 16" Rota Slipstreams, Ground control coilovers, Tokico gas struts
I think the trx pro .15 is just a shitty motor because I bought a brand new nitro Rustler and it would never ran right from the time i first started it. I couldnt get it to start so i bought a megatech motor and i have no problems with it.
Mods: Do-Luck Body Kit, Random 17"'s, 93 Interior,SR coming soon!
Quote:
Originally Posted by honda_guy58
I think the trx pro .15 is just a shitty motor because I bought a brand new nitro Rustler and it would never ran right from the time i first started it. I couldnt get it to start so i bought a megatech motor and i have no problems with it.
Some motors are more tempermental to tune properly. Some motors wont run at all or good if you cant find the tuning band or have no idea how or where it wants to run. Other motors have a more open band so you can totally have a off the wall set up and it will still run fine.
Mods: Bottle Fed B16A 13.23@101.5 on I,H,E and a 50 shot
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvStylin45s
Some motors are more tempermental to tune properly. Some motors wont run at all or good if you cant find the tuning band or have no idea how or where it wants to run. Other motors have a more open band so you can totally have a off the wall set up and it will still run fine.
lies I tell you..all lies :byye
__________________
Kevin
Dynamic Mayhem Motorsports
1990 Civic Hatch w/ Bottle Fed B16 - Trailered as of 12/15/06
1991 Acura Integra - My new daily driver http://www.myspace.com/vtecsqznn2o "I have returned many times to honour the valiant men who died…every man who set foot on Omaha Beach was a hero."-Lieutenant General Omar Bradley
Mods: AEM SR intake, Greddy header, Greddy Evo2 cat back exhaust, Carsound high flow cat, ACT stage 2 clutch, ACT 8.5lb flywheel, 16" Rota Slipstreams, Ground control coilovers, Tokico gas struts
Just not a good motor... I fired it up yesterday, I got it tuned, it worked fine for about 2 minutes then I turned it off and started it back up an hour later. Ran like shit again. My SH motor is easy as hell to tune and its faster, stays tuned, starts in one pull, and revs higher.
Thats not his index finger, man. 
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