B16b or B18c

[T-Bar]

civic type r or integra type R motor to build all motor?

a friend of mine had an Eg with a stroked B16b and a complete build and ran low low 13's consistent and hit mid 12's on a shot, both in street trim, no backseat and spare only and on a pair of toyo proxes.

I was wondering, I'd like to build an Eg over this winter and be ready for spring, but am debating to go his route and use a b16b and stroke it, or just begin with a B18c typie and alrady have the displacement, his was 1.8* closer to 1.9, if i use a b18c typie i wont have to stroke spend more on headwork. What do you guys suggest or do you have a b16b stroked and how big of a difference is it over a b18c with the same mods minus the stroke, i tried doing a search but cant really find any info, i would really appreciate some knowledge on this.

Thanks

[mpcivicfb88]

Itr. all the way. id get that over ctr for anything

[Transparent]

all a b16b is is a destroked b18c5. big waste of money. get the itr motor

[tienlude]

itr u noob, dammit, itr..

[T-Bar]

are the power gains that much more if i was to stroke the Itr? or just do a complete head build, basically my goal is a daily driver that can his at least a low 13 in street trim and a low low 12 on a shot and in track trim, gutted a bit better tire.

[shaolin_style]

ITR!!!! No ifs ands or buts about it.

[T-Bar]

thanks, also since every1 is actually answering my posts, every1 and their uncle builds eg hatchs around here, and also pretty well everywhere else, i cant blame them i like them too, one of the best platforms, personallyI've always liked a tastefully modded simple JDm styled EG coupe, how big of a weight diff and or 1/4 mile diff will the exact same motor set up in an eg hatch vs eg coupe be? nothing drastic eh?

[civic_HP]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^GOD DAMN NEWBS NEVER LEARN HOW TO USE THE SEARCH INFORMATION!!

For you i reccommend 1 of 3 set up's

B18C1 SKUNK2 intake manifold
Crower Stage 2 cams
valve job and p&p
valve springs and retainers
i'd still reccommend a nice forged bottom end set up also up the compression to 11.5:1 forged and forged connecting rods with a knifed crank
bolts ons are a must cam gears new waterpump and belt new gaskets intake jdm ITR header and 2 1/4 exhaust to a ITR axle back

B18C
Leave the factory bottom end its fairly strong good compression but if you wanna run a shot i reccommend again swap the bottom ends out for forged then knife the crank to cut through oil making it rev up quicker cause less resistance
HEADWORK with fuel and ECU tuning is KEY!!
UBERDATA OR HONDATA IS A GOOD IDEA AND INVESTMENT
run the same head set up as above stated if you need more detail on a great all motor and Juiced set up i can go into detail

NOW WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT "DA KING DING A LING"
B18B w/ ITR trans 4.785 FD
everything new
550 cc injectors
uberdata
turboXS type h BOV
38mm Wastegate 9 lbs spring
Vortech FMU
AEM FPR
B&M FUEL FILTER MOUNTED GUAGE
LOG STYLE T3 FLANGE W/ EXTERNAL WASTEGATE
T3/T04E turbocharger
9:1 SRP forged pistons
H beam forged rods
knifed crank
SPEARCO FMIC
2 1/2" IC PIPING
3" DOWNPIPE TO 2 1/2 INCH EXHAUST ITR AXLE BACK MUFFLER
CROWER STAGE 2 TURBO CAMSHAFTS
RETAINERS VALVESPRINGS VALVEJOB AND P&P
68MM TB STR
SKUNK2 OR JG EDELBROCK INTAKE MANIFOLD
TURBOSMART dual stage gate style boost controller
APEX'i SAFC
cam gears new bearings new gaskets new seals
255 lph fuel pump
itr lightened flywheel with a REALLY STRONG CLUTCH OF YOUR CHOICE

FOR NOW THATS ALL I CAN THINK OF so if you need more detail just ask

BUT LIKE IT SAYS

MORE AIR MORE FUEL = MORE POWER!!!!

[sorrow]

Im gonna have to weigh in here, Personally if your going to be doing all these modifications get a b18c1. Why buy one of the greatest factory tunes only to destroy said factory tune?
B18c5 > B16b anyday
B18c1,2,3, > B18c5 if you plan on tearing it apart anyways. Thats my take on things.

And I dont see much of a difference between the coupe or the hatch. Thats the point where personal taste starts spilling in, especially with you building a motor, you can set a time and do the research to figure out what you need to get the coupe there and be that much different.

Good luck no matter what you do!

[T-Bar]

i have always liked an all motor car for a daily driver. but getting outta forum, as far as boost goes wouldnt an ITR tranny be to short a gear for a boosted car and also with a lightened flywheel it would be a hassle to drive daily. it would have poor low end but get into boost really fast. but im still not sure it would be a good idea because a boosted car moves through the lower gears so fast, adding a light flywheel would make it move through those gears even faster, making it even more difficult to keep good traction. and most guys with FWD turbo cars will agree, that traction is already an issue as it is.

[T-Bar]

as far as geezers go over typies, i still prefer typie even though i am going to rip alot of things off that make a typie a typie over a geezer. BUT the fact of the matter is all the parts i swap out can be easily sold to others looking to put typie shit in their B-series motors. Its a good system and it works, most people who build them do so.

I dont see any advantage over getting a GSR over an ITR unless you get a killer deal on a GSR. But I like ITr for what it is and especially the tranny/LSD/ JDM RP, not just to say, "yo its a type R guy" alot of people only get them and leave em to OE spec just so they can say and try to scare people by telling them its a type "R"

[civic_HP]

the longer the transmission gear ratio the longer it takes for the turbo to spool up making MORE lag...the idea is to make things move as freely as possible the highly the ratio the easier it is to build boost once your outta 1st gear you'll never see lag what so ever and with the ITR tranny in this situation you'll be in + boost at 1800 1900 rpm yet with the LS tranny i'd say 2400 - 2500 rpm due to the delay in gear ratio to boost pressure

i agree but for what he's building we already went through this to get an ITR instead of a GSR here in Canada the difference is about 700 - 800 which when you are swapping the parts out already you can resell becuz ITR parts are in demand that it'll actually be cheaper going ITR than GSR

ITR CAMS 450 CDN
ITR PISTONS AND RODS 350 CDN
VALVESPRINGS ETC 250 CDN
SAVINGS ON INTAKE MANIFOLD 400 CDN

SO with going ITR he just saved himself 1450 bucks roughly CDN FUNDS OFCOURSE

[T-Bar]

well put, I think I'd have more fun the all Motor route, especially with honda, if i was going turbo it would have to be something serious, at least SR20 or something along those lines where 400-500 horepower can be achieved on a failry stock bottom end, thats something with serious potential. all motor hondas are just so much more fun IMO. ive only driven them, i want to build one for myself now.

[sorrow]

Ill never understand the logic behind tearing something apart so you can replace all its parts. Also usually I can swing around 1200 to 1500 Dollars for a gsr. Also I dont live in an area saturated with acura or honda engines so not to many excess people looking for cast off parts. <although the magical land of ebay helps make up>
Ok say you buy a b18c5 engine only for 2500 <just guestimates dont get all up in arms.>
Engine b18c5 $2500
Engine b18c1 $1500
$1000 difference catches my attention as thats money I can tie up imidiatly in getting my new parts in hand.
BUT, I do understand your point about the current resale value of the type R parts themselves. So your point is taken before you get all worried that im not listening to you. But why do that to a work of factory art? Also thats not acounting for the time necessary to DO all the reselling and tear down. Hell judging by how much you seem to want to remove from the engine allready why not just start getting the parts on an individual basis and save yourself any teardown time or expenses at all? Find a good block and head and start building off that.

[civic_HP]

Come on man you're giving the ITR motor too much credit now...ITS not a formula one masterpiece for the cost of what it is its a great motor but there is alot of room for improvement
higher lift cam more duration more rev capabilities forged internals higher compression ratio more air more fuel there is always room for improvement and the ITR is no different from a B16 or an E36 M3 motor