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Skunk2 Stage 2 isnt really a stage 2. By all other company's measurements, its really a stage 4. Theyre MASSIVE. Theyre bigger than Crower's stage 3.
Im using Crowers 63403 Stage 3 cams in my B18C1. For these cams, they recommend springs and retainers, and a bump in compression. I was initially looking for a Stage 1 or 2 cam, but found these for $200 shipped, and couldnt pass it up. Since I was already putting in B16 pistons and a Spoon head gasket, the compression was already there. These cams can be run without a compression bump, but it is strongly recommended. After that, I needed springs and retainers.
Regardless of what cams you get, i would HIGHLY recommend that you buy retainers that come with their own keepers. Most aftermarket companies utilize the OEM keepers, which have been known to fail or pull through the retainer. When this happens, you drop a valve, and BYEBYE engine. Supertech retainers have done this to a few people i know, and the damage was NOT pretty. To prevent this, replace the OEM keepers with aftermarket ones. You have to buy the retainers with the keepers, you cant mix and match. Unfortunatly, the only companies out there (that I know of) that make their own keepers are Ferrea and Manley. Ferrea is CRAZY expensive, so i went with Manley retainers and keepers (good up to and over 700whp) for $250. I think REV is working on their own keepers, but i dont think theyre out yet.
As far as valvesprings, the manufacturer doesnt really matter- you can mix match springs and retainers. Im running Manley retainers and Supertech springs, because supertech was the cheapest i found, at $159 shipped.
To be perfectly honest, I believe in a "do it once, do it right," kind of philosophy. Dont go with a stage 1 cam if youre going to want to upgrade later. Youll buy the cams for $700 and sell for $350. Set your goal in HP numbers or 1/4 mile time, and work for it. If youre looking to break 200whp, then bottom end work is your next step. Forged internals, hi comp pistons, etc. My goal was 200whp, or 13.9 1/4 mile. Either would be fine for me. I havent yet put the motor in my car, but i should be VERY close. Whatever you end up doing, youll want to make sure your head can handle what your bottom end is doing, and visa versa. Huge cams and low compression doesnt do much, and similarly- hi compression and OEM cams wont help much either. Build your top and bottom ends in syncronization.
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ALL Motor B18C1
A 5th lugnut is just added weight.
Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
1997 GSR- 192whp 130wtq all motor. SOLD
1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
1998 Nissan 240SX SE New!
And a 2000 Suzuki SV650
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