they are expensive and they only come in an automatic AWD. look around, they're on different sites. since it is an H-series motor, you can use an h22 tranny.
they are expensive and they only come in an automatic AWD. look around, they're on different sites. since it is an H-series motor, you can use an h22 tranny.
i looked a while back when someone brought it to my attention but never really found one
i gotta jam in a little bit, so i don't have time to look for it. it's ub3r rare, but they're around. just search for "accord wagon h23 dohc vtec" on google.
If i were you, i'd go with the h22. More parts out there, and most of the shops i've seen have worked with the 22 more then the 23. But, a h23 would be differnt....
Mods: H22A and ECU, exedy clutch, CAI/H/E..some extras sitting in the garage and on the car, i'll keep u posted. 18" White Racing Harts. Type S seat covers and airfreshner and Ashtray!! Saving up for a lot of parts. Rebuilding whole L-side of car except door, headlights, bushings and suspension.
i'd go with the H22 you can always stroke it or just match the head with the bottom end of a H23 non-vtec. Might need some new pistons to get some more outta that vtec but a lot of people w/ preludes have done this and its pretty successfull. I'm stroking and putting type S pistons on my H22A
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i'd go with the H22 you can always stroke it or just match the head with the bottom end of a H23 non-vtec. Might need some new pistons to get some more outta that vtec but a lot of people w/ preludes have done this and its pretty successfull. I'm stroking and putting type S pistons on my H22A
have you ever wondered why not a lot of h23/h22 frankensteins are around? because they have major reliability issues. i mean there are a few, but not as many as the ls/vtec....
Mods: H22A and ECU, exedy clutch, CAI/H/E..some extras sitting in the garage and on the car, i'll keep u posted. 18" White Racing Harts. Type S seat covers and airfreshner and Ashtray!! Saving up for a lot of parts. Rebuilding whole L-side of car except door, headlights, bushings and suspension.
Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraMagneticAL
have you ever wondered why not a lot of h23/h22 frankensteins are around? because they have major reliability issues. i mean there are a few, but not as many as the ls/vtec....
yeah well thats true, i assume part of it has to do with doing things right. If u unbolt here, move part and bolt this part on instead...lets see if she fires up..then I assume you're gonna run into a world of problems. But you're right not that many people have it done, but i am convinced u could do it right and have it be reliable and very nice. But also that is part of the reason i'm just gonna stroke my H22 to a 2.3/2.4 I'd rather have a brand new forged and balanced crank than one ripped out of an old engine.
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Yeah the easy way to find out of you have an H23 would be to look at the valve cover. If you have two lobes for cams you have either an H22 or H23 but if you have a single raised valve cover then you have an F22. And I highly doubt you have a H series motor in your car.
Peace
you can always look at the plate next to the headers that says what model engine it is.
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'90 crx Si
D16Z6, arp rod bolts, OBD1 conversion/chipped P28, Comp cam, b16 throttle body, intake, JR Supercharger@8.5 psi, 3.2' blower pulley, crank pulley upgrade, dsm 450s, Hondata IM gasket, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 4-2-1 header, 2.5' catless MSPi exhaust, tuned via CROME Pro, 6 puck, 8lb fidanza flywheel, b&m shortshifter, catch can, autometer..=170whp/145wtq MY VIDEO(old setup)
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