Ok so i want to go all motor, i really want to get the stage 2 crower cams and upgrade valvetrain and the likes, i want to get JE pistons crower rods and possibly darton sleeves rs*r exmag aem v2 cold air and not sure of headers yet, was also considering porting my intake manifold and eventually getting appropriate injectors, other than that there are only a few things that come to mind, any comments on that setup would be appreciated i need all the input i can get, also when i change cams and the such and it raises the redline, what exactly do i need to do to allow my car to rev to that, safely, just tune or will i need to replace oil orifices etc..
lol oh yeah i have a 1996 honda prelude Si (H23A1)
Last edited by flashpoint : 08-04-2005 at 07:15 PM.
Reason: doh
Mods: way too many to list. see signature for full details and pictures!
I have an RSR exmag exhaust. AWESOME piece. Sounds good, is pretty quiet unless you are on it, and well made.
Inline 4 engines have one header, not headers.
The AEM V2 is a waste of money. Get a standard AEM CAI (the ITR version is 3" vs 2.75" if you really want that extra .8WHP) or a knock off J's style. Passwordjdm.com makes an awesome version for 150 bucks.
dont bother porting the intake manifold. Just get an aftermarket version from blox, skunk2 or eddlebrock.
you dont need a better then stock intake manifold unless you plan on revving past 8K RPM.
with your engine, I would put together a low pressure turbo system. your engine can more then handle ~8PSI with stock internals and you will put out a buttload more power then you would with the same amount of money put into it going NA.
In fact you would need to break the engine apart, put in new internals, get a better head, I/H/E, cams and have it tuned on a standalone EMS in order to get anywhere near a 2K dollar used turbo kit would get you running 5-8PSI.
i wanted to go turbo in the beggining due to easy power gains, but i think im stuck on all motor, how reliable is it to run turbo at 8 psi on stock internals, i was going to put new pistons rods and sleeve it if i turbo'd it anyway, im not completely sure yet, still comparing and deciding whether or not i really want the throttle response and low end from all motor, cause i want to drag my car a little just for fun with my friends but i would rather try and autox never done it and it appeals to me
those engines have frm bores so any performance engine mods you do to the engine will need sleeving especialy if you plan on reving it because of the poor 1.5:1 r/s ratio the bores wear out quite quick.
if you make the motor safe for revving you can raise the rpms by thousands while only sacrificing 10-20 units of peak torque. do the math.
of course your motor needs to be tuned to make that kind of high revving power. the stock camshafts don't help in holding the torque in the high end. w/ aftermarket camshafts, they can actually shift the torque peak, then hold and slow down the torque curve drop in the upper rpms...all at the expense of low end performance.
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so your saying that if i de-stroke my motor, and cam it up it will be more reliable in high rpms, have better top end (of course) but at the sacrifice of the low end torque/power??
how would i de-stroke my motor and would i really want to do that? how would it make it more reliable and to raise the rpms couldnt i just work on the valvtrain? enlighten me
Last edited by flashpoint : 08-06-2005 at 12:54 PM.
Reason: err
not just there, but you'd have to redo the entire valvetrain. stiffer valve springs are a must to prevent valve float and some Ti retainers. lighter valves are a plus, but not required. but even at 2.2L the h-series motors don't have quite a great rod stroke ratio for high revving on stock internals. you'd have to beef it up some. i had my skunk2 h22 accord seeing 10k rpms every so often. you can get the f20b crank (i think) or h22a crank to destroke it. custom is another way to go if you got major flow. while you're in there, might as well have the crank knife edged and rebalanced to remove some weight too
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