Mods: Bone stock with a Sony CD/MP3 deck, Alpine 12" type R, Pioneer Amp, Sony 6.5' Xplod speakers, better headlights, gotta save for college before the engine and suspension mods take place.
more b18b power
whats the best way to push 225 to 250 streetable horse and a good amount of torque and keep the car naturally aspirated?
cam swaps arent a problem but i dont want to rebuild the engine or anything.
would it be more affordable to just turbo it?
thx.
a 220-250whp NA nonvtec b series is going to be a bear to drive on the street. you're going to need some high compression and big cams. your hopefulness for no rebuild is not possible.
Even 225-250 crank hp on an N/A non-VTEC LS is going to be virtually impossible. 225hp = ~180whp which is near the top end of what is possible for a streetable one. You'd have to spend a lot - I mean top end, bottom end, everything - and have excellent tuning to get those numbers. It can be done, but IMO there are smarter ways to do it.
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'98 Integra LS - non-VTEC autocross / daily driver (aka Track-Tested / Mother Approved) Daily-driven 87 octane Porsche destroyer
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Mods: Bone stock with a Sony CD/MP3 deck, Alpine 12" type R, Pioneer Amp, Sony 6.5' Xplod speakers, better headlights, gotta save for college before the engine and suspension mods take place.
so whats a good turbo kit for my b18b non vtec
or should i jus wait til this motor burns out and throw a vtec in there and turbo that
B18B is a great turbo motor, I'd just turbo it now and if it's done properly you'll never miss VTEC as you'll have piles of power. Turbo selection is critical it seems, as 10psi from one turbo might produce substantially more power than 10psi from a different unit. Precision seems to make great stuff, most of the big power well-tuned guys are running those. They aren't cheap but you get what you pay for.
Streetable all-motor 200+ whp non-VTEC is a near impossibility.
when i wanted to go all motor with my LS looking for more then 200whp, i was about to spend 600 grand to do so. that was b16 head, buddy club valvetrain, buddy club s4 cams, itbs, a strocker kit. it was so much shit and i got to looking at it and if that shit doesnt spell, non streetable lol. just go with like a drag gen 3 turbo kit and a mild head build. you can make some good power and reliable power
Mods: Enough to out run Charger challenger SRT-8's
I agree just boost a little. 4years ago I had a bad ass LS with GS-R tranny in 4dr 94 civ very strong, rev limited to 8500 it would bark 4thgear with 18's, no GS-R in hatch,H22 in hatch, wrx could see me. Fucked around and ran up on a 00 SI on 7psi of boost and I walked his ass uptil mid 4th gear and then around 120-130 he started to pull up to me and pass. He didnt have enough low end to deal with the b18b
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Speed is a question of money, if you dont have any to spend don't waste your time.
The most you're going to get out of your B18B without rebuilding the bottom end is probably 180whp....Which is what I'm expecting to get up from my 173.5whp (Proper fuel tuning, Cam timing, ignition timing).
Even with that I may only just raise my mid-range powerband, and lose some top end....which would be sweet.
I guess more is possible with Stage III cams or equivalent, but if you're going to get an almot non-streetable cam, then I think your original question is moot anyways.
JCushing on H-T and nonvtec.com is running an all-motor B20 non-vtec with P8R head and higher compression, with Crower 404's and he's only getting mid-180s whp. Which is very strong, but that's fully tuned, so don't expect anything more than that.
JCushing on H-T and nonvtec.com is running an all-motor B20 non-vtec with P8R head and higher compression, with Crower 404's and he's only getting mid-180s whp. Which is very strong, but that's fully tuned, so don't expect anything more than that.
Yea, I'm not expecting more than 180whp if I actually did get there peak. I'd rather move my powerband down and make some more usable hp early. If you've seen my torque curve...it looks like a heart rate monitor. So it'll feel like a different monster just by smoothing out that torque curve.
To the OP, I agree to boost. More bang for your buck if you do it right.
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