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03-20-2008, 03:55 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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SH Titanium
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Naranjito, Puerto Rico
Posts: 353
Car: 2004 Mazda Rx8
Mods: Cobb accessport, MM/BHR turbo pushing 9psi, excedy stage 2 clutch, lightweight flywheel, mazdaspeed coilovers, 3" pipe exhaust no cat or muffler
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need help
i jus bought a 96' civic dx an im gonna dropin a b18c5 in it but with the ecu shud jus stay with the stock one or go with tha hondata s100 or obd1 conversion???
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03-20-2008, 07:45 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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BlackMoon Ninja
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Everywhere but home...
Posts: 826
Car: 92 Honda Civic SI
Mods: GSR motor, build to N/A glory
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If you mean stock one as in the one that will come with the b18c5, it will do just fine. Unless you plan on doing some serious modding to the motor, the stock ecu will do you just fine. Even with some basic bolt ons. Once you start messing with the timing, fuel pressure and compression ratio, thats when you need to upgrade the ecu setup.
__________________
'92 Honda Civic SI- GSR swap, full N/A build.
It's so badass, people stop looking at porn cause of it.
My EG6
'01 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS (SOLD)
'01 Dodge Dakota R/T, RIP. Wrecked
'00 Dodge Durango R/T - The new whip
Konnichiwa from japan bitches!
Myspace
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03-21-2008, 06:29 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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SH Titanium
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Naranjito, Puerto Rico
Posts: 353
Car: 2004 Mazda Rx8
Mods: Cobb accessport, MM/BHR turbo pushing 9psi, excedy stage 2 clutch, lightweight flywheel, mazdaspeed coilovers, 3" pipe exhaust no cat or muffler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeper15
If you mean stock one as in the one that will come with the b18c5, it will do just fine. Unless you plan on doing some serious modding to the motor, the stock ecu will do you just fine. Even with some basic bolt ons. Once you start messing with the timing, fuel pressure and compression ratio, thats when you need to upgrade the ecu setup.
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this is wat i was gonna do a few bolt on parts like adjustable cams, cold air intake, racing intake/exhaust systems, port the head and TB, a stage 2 or stage 3 clutch and flywheel, new spark plugs/wires and tune it
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03-21-2008, 08:14 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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SH Silver
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: new hampshire
Posts: 246
Car: 1992 civic vx hatch
Mods: d16z6 swap w/ bolt ons
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i don't know if you meant port your throttle body, but that wouldn't be smart, or even really possible.
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03-21-2008, 08:24 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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SH Titanium
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Naranjito, Puerto Rico
Posts: 353
Car: 2004 Mazda Rx8
Mods: Cobb accessport, MM/BHR turbo pushing 9psi, excedy stage 2 clutch, lightweight flywheel, mazdaspeed coilovers, 3" pipe exhaust no cat or muffler
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i thinks its possible... ive never done it before or even heard of it but alot of ppl hav been telling me to do it that itll make a huge differnce and they told to go with energy dynamics to get it done...
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03-24-2008, 01:58 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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SH Titanium
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Naranjito, Puerto Rico
Posts: 353
Car: 2004 Mazda Rx8
Mods: Cobb accessport, MM/BHR turbo pushing 9psi, excedy stage 2 clutch, lightweight flywheel, mazdaspeed coilovers, 3" pipe exhaust no cat or muffler
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i have a gutted 96 civic dx hatchback these are to setups i came up with, which shud i choose setup a or b???
(setups are just below)
A.
*ls/vtec swap--------------------------------------1400.00
*B16 ported head-----------------------------------1500.00
*Blox 70mm Throttle body---------------------------269.99
*Blox IM--------------------------------------------169.99
*Injen cold air intake--------------------------------255.56
*Weapon-R 4-2-1 Full race header-------------------650.00
*Hks dragger exhaust system------------------------673.00
*Skunk2 high comp valve set------------------------345.80
*Skunk2 pro series cam gears------------------------266.00
*Skunk2 pro +2 camshafts---------------------------756.77
*Skunk2 pro series valve spring set-------------------379.05
*Skunk2 vtec Ti retainers----------------------------226.10
*Skunk2 odb2 to obd1 conversion harness------------194.18
*Toda racing b16 pistons an rings (81.50mm)---------880.00
*Hondata modified p28 ecu--------------------------419.99
*Stat racing 440cc fuel injectors---------------------269.99
*Zex EFI Dry nitrous system-------------------------449.99
Total-----------------------------------------------$9232.44
(way over my budget)
or
B.
*B16a swap-----------------------------------------1900.00
*Injen cold air intake---------------------------------239.40
*Blox 70mm throttle body-----------------------------269.99
*Blox intake manifold---------------------------------169.99
*Toda racing exhaust header-------------------------980.00
*Apexi N1 exhaust system----------------------------439.00
*Skunk2 pro +2 camshafts----------------------------756.77
*Skunk2 High comp valve set-------------------------345.80
*Skunk2 pro valve springs----------------------------379.05
*Skunk2 Ti retainers---------------------------------226.10
*Skunk2 pro series cam gears------------------------266.00
*Skunk2 obd2 to obd1 conversion harness------------194.18
*Greddy timing belt----------------------------------119.40
*Stat 440cc fuel injectors----------------------------269.99
*Megan racing fuel pressure regulator-----------------69.99
*ZEX EFI dry nitrous system--------------------------499.99
*Hondata Modifed p28 ecu---------------------------419.99
*NGK Iridium spark plugs-----------------------------50.00
*NGK Iridium spark plug wires-------------------------85.00
Total------------------------------------------------$5780.64
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03-25-2008, 07:13 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Digital Blueprint
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, CAN
Posts: 1,778
Car: 1996 Integra SE
Mods: See the sig.
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Go with the one that isnt over your budget lol.
But do some more shopping. Some of those prices you quoted are ridiculous. $194 for a conversion harness?? $420 for a P28??? I spent $255 with phearable.net for a P28 ECU chipped/socketed with a basemap tune on it, including an OBDII to OBDI Conversion Harness.
Have you talked to a tuner in your area? $420 for a P28 is craziness, but even crazier if your tuner doesn't even support tuning with whatever Hondata system is in this P28.
That throttle body is wayyyyy too big, and other issues like the cams you listed would probably end up being too much cam. Don't just make a list of mods. First figure out what you want to do with the car, and then you can set a power goal or power/weight ratio goal.
__________________
1996 Acura Integra SE
Motor: BC0022 Cams, Crower V/T, AEM Cam Gears, Comptech Icebox, Skunk2 I/M w/ Hondata gasket, DC-S 4-2-1 Header, 2.07" Brullen Cat-Back, B&M FPR, FAL Rad/AC Fans.
Tuning: UBERDATA, FJO Racing Wideband AFR System/Gauge
Security: Computer chip ignition Immobilizer, Intrusion alarm, Glass break alarm, and of course... THE BAR!!
Old Dyno: 175whp @ 7500 RPM / 135wtq @ 7000 RPM........ERTW
2001 Toyota Highlander V6 4WD - Winter Car - 220bhp / 222tq Bone Stock Baby!
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03-25-2008, 08:04 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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SH Titanium
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Naranjito, Puerto Rico
Posts: 353
Car: 2004 Mazda Rx8
Mods: Cobb accessport, MM/BHR turbo pushing 9psi, excedy stage 2 clutch, lightweight flywheel, mazdaspeed coilovers, 3" pipe exhaust no cat or muffler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnToll
Go with the one that isnt over your budget lol.
But do some more shopping. Some of those prices you quoted are ridiculous. $194 for a conversion harness?? $420 for a P28??? I spent $255 with phearable.net for a P28 ECU chipped/socketed with a basemap tune on it, including an OBDII to OBDI Conversion Harness.
Have you talked to a tuner in your area? $420 for a P28 is craziness, but even crazier if your tuner doesn't even support tuning with whatever Hondata system is in this P28.
That throttle body is wayyyyy too big, and other issues like the cams you listed would probably end up being too much cam. Don't just make a list of mods. First figure out what you want to do with the car, and then you can set a power goal or power/weight ratio goal.
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lol ok so smaller TB like wat 66mm??? Wat kind of cams shud i use then???? Already got my goal i just want it to be able to go up beat a k20a...
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03-25-2008, 08:17 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Digital Blueprint
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, CAN
Posts: 1,778
Car: 1996 Integra SE
Mods: See the sig.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PR_TR
lol ok so smaller TB like wat 66mm??? Wat kind of cams shud i use then???? Already got my goal i just want it to be able to go up beat a k20a...
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Can you expand on your goal? You want to be faster than a K20 swapped hatch? In a straight line? Auto-X?
You might indeed need those cams that you listed and a throttle body that big if you're planning on running like 12+:1 Compression, and making some 220whp all motor beast.....for like $4500+.....am I on the right track here?
__________________
1996 Acura Integra SE
Motor: BC0022 Cams, Crower V/T, AEM Cam Gears, Comptech Icebox, Skunk2 I/M w/ Hondata gasket, DC-S 4-2-1 Header, 2.07" Brullen Cat-Back, B&M FPR, FAL Rad/AC Fans.
Tuning: UBERDATA, FJO Racing Wideband AFR System/Gauge
Security: Computer chip ignition Immobilizer, Intrusion alarm, Glass break alarm, and of course... THE BAR!!
Old Dyno: 175whp @ 7500 RPM / 135wtq @ 7000 RPM........ERTW
2001 Toyota Highlander V6 4WD - Winter Car - 220bhp / 222tq Bone Stock Baby!
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03-25-2008, 08:31 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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SH Titanium
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Naranjito, Puerto Rico
Posts: 353
Car: 2004 Mazda Rx8
Mods: Cobb accessport, MM/BHR turbo pushing 9psi, excedy stage 2 clutch, lightweight flywheel, mazdaspeed coilovers, 3" pipe exhaust no cat or muffler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnToll
Can you expand on your goal? You want to be faster than a K20 swapped hatch? In a straight line? Auto-X?
You might indeed need those cams that you listed and a throttle body that big if you're planning on running like 12+:1 Compression, and making some 220whp all motor beast.....for like $4500+.....am I on the right track here?
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yes thaz wat i mean but im jus gonna race it on a 1/4 strip..
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03-25-2008, 08:53 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Digital Blueprint
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, CAN
Posts: 1,778
Car: 1996 Integra SE
Mods: See the sig.
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Well, if your only use is going to be at the drag strip, then I would very much recommend boosting instead of going all motor.
For half the price of going all motor, you can get yourself a low 11 second car on boost, rather than a mid 12-13 second car on motor. Especially if you gut the hatch, and are running full race slicks.
__________________
1996 Acura Integra SE
Motor: BC0022 Cams, Crower V/T, AEM Cam Gears, Comptech Icebox, Skunk2 I/M w/ Hondata gasket, DC-S 4-2-1 Header, 2.07" Brullen Cat-Back, B&M FPR, FAL Rad/AC Fans.
Tuning: UBERDATA, FJO Racing Wideband AFR System/Gauge
Security: Computer chip ignition Immobilizer, Intrusion alarm, Glass break alarm, and of course... THE BAR!!
Old Dyno: 175whp @ 7500 RPM / 135wtq @ 7000 RPM........ERTW
2001 Toyota Highlander V6 4WD - Winter Car - 220bhp / 222tq Bone Stock Baby!
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03-25-2008, 09:10 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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SH Titanium
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Naranjito, Puerto Rico
Posts: 353
Car: 2004 Mazda Rx8
Mods: Cobb accessport, MM/BHR turbo pushing 9psi, excedy stage 2 clutch, lightweight flywheel, mazdaspeed coilovers, 3" pipe exhaust no cat or muffler
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ok its not just goin to be for tha drag strip more lik off tha philadelphia turnpike the 1/4 between tha hess gas station and park thats why i want to go all motor and the sound that the engine makes all motor i love it man
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03-25-2008, 09:24 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Digital Blueprint
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, CAN
Posts: 1,778
Car: 1996 Integra SE
Mods: See the sig.
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Oh ok haha.
Well, if you have 4-5k to drop on this project, I would go with a b18c1 swap (versus the B16A...just more there in the GSR motor), and then build up a monster 215-220whp all motor build on a streetable 12:1 Compression Ratio.
Search up on what to do to achieve this goal. You can stroke, Piston Swap, Head gasket, Head Milling etc to up your Compression Ratio enough to support Skunk2 Pro 2 cams blah blah. Lots of threads on big all motor builds on this site. Too much to get into in one post.
__________________
1996 Acura Integra SE
Motor: BC0022 Cams, Crower V/T, AEM Cam Gears, Comptech Icebox, Skunk2 I/M w/ Hondata gasket, DC-S 4-2-1 Header, 2.07" Brullen Cat-Back, B&M FPR, FAL Rad/AC Fans.
Tuning: UBERDATA, FJO Racing Wideband AFR System/Gauge
Security: Computer chip ignition Immobilizer, Intrusion alarm, Glass break alarm, and of course... THE BAR!!
Old Dyno: 175whp @ 7500 RPM / 135wtq @ 7000 RPM........ERTW
2001 Toyota Highlander V6 4WD - Winter Car - 220bhp / 222tq Bone Stock Baby!
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03-25-2008, 09:50 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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SH Titanium
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Naranjito, Puerto Rico
Posts: 353
Car: 2004 Mazda Rx8
Mods: Cobb accessport, MM/BHR turbo pushing 9psi, excedy stage 2 clutch, lightweight flywheel, mazdaspeed coilovers, 3" pipe exhaust no cat or muffler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnToll
Oh ok haha.
Well, if you have 4-5k to drop on this project, I would go with a b18c1 swap (versus the B16A...just more there in the GSR motor), and then build up a monster 215-220whp all motor build on a streetable 12:1 Compression Ratio.
Search up on what to do to achieve this goal. You can stroke, Piston Swap, Head gasket, Head Milling etc to up your Compression Ratio enough to support Skunk2 Pro 2 cams blah blah. Lots of threads on big all motor builds on this site. Too much to get into in one post.
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i got 6k to drop into it straight up but but i think i mite go with the b16a im just being lazy dont feel like looking up wat i shud do to a gsr ill just use skunk2 pro 1 cams and a 68-66mm TB but anything else u think i shud change on my list or am i gud???
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03-25-2008, 10:08 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Digital Blueprint
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, CAN
Posts: 1,778
Car: 1996 Integra SE
Mods: See the sig.
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