I have a 1992 Integra GS. I originally was going to boost this car but i decided to build it up all motor so i could play with it at the track till i get all the turbo parts. I have already purchased all the parts below and I am waiting on the head gasket and ARP head studs to come in so I can get started. Can I bolt all this stuff on and be good to go or is there something else I "need" like a chip or Hondata? BTW: I went with the block guard, ARP studs and Cometic head gasket cause I may spray it in the future.
Thanks,
B18A
*Stock short block
*Block guard
*Ported JG LS head with high lift springs and ferrera valves
*Crower stage 1 cams
*Cometic head gasket
*ARP head studs
*Blox intake manifold and bored throttle body
* 4 into 2 header
*Cold air intake
*MSD cap,coil and wires
*Under drive pulleys
*255 lph fuel pump
it would be best to get an ems so you can properly tune it
I have plans to go with neptune when I go turbo. The only thing I am lacking on my turbo set-up is a sleeved Benson block. Probably 2 months away cause right now my mustang is consuming all the mod money.
For now I am going to play with the timing and fuel pressure and see if I can get it to run decent.
I would opt for Crower 403 or 404 cams. If you didn't want to eat the depreciation of used cams at least go with the 402T cams which will benefit you now from high lift but are designed for turbo so you could keep them in your next setup. And, while you're opening up the block for blockguard and all that, get rid of your stock pistons and put some B16 slugs in there. Unless you're definitely tuning & going with an all-motor cam though I'd shy away from the CTR pistons might be too extreme.
Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
1997 GSR- 192whp 130wtq all motor. SOLD
1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
1998 Nissan 240SX SE New!
And a 2000 Suzuki SV650
That clutch is WAAAY overkill. You only need a stage 1, maybe stage 2.
Stage 4 is for 400+hp. It would never be streetable.
Strip Series 1620 Clutch Kit
The CC Strip 1620 series kit is the ultimate road and track performance kit. This assembly allows for ease of gear transition and smoother take off. Strip Series 1620 is designed for street or track use for vehicles with a 150-250% increase in torque capacity. This unit reduces unwanted heat and increases holding capacity.
I always overkill the clutch cause its better to have too much than not enough. Plus there is alot of room to grow. Not to mention I also own a 1990 mustang, a 1995 TSI Talon, a 1992 300zx and a 1995 Tahoe. So it doesnt have to see much street use.
My mustang and Talon are track toys. The Integra wont be any different.
I never planned on boosting this motor i am saving for a sleeved and built B20.
I went with the 402's cause they seemed to best match the power band of the LS engine.
You're a car guy, you know you don't buy cams to match the stock powerband! You pick a set based on teh powerband you want to have. A 1.8 all-motor needs RPM to make horsepower, that's why the 404 is the favorite amont non-VTEC enthusiasts.
You're a car guy, you know you don't buy cams to match the stock powerband! You pick a set based on teh powerband you want to have. A 1.8 all-motor needs RPM to make horsepower, that's why the 404 is the favorite amont non-VTEC enthusiasts.
I thought the LS couldnt rev like a Vtec because of an inferior rocker arm design. Is this not the case?
Also from what I could tell the 402's seem to work well with nitrous.
Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
1997 GSR- 192whp 130wtq all motor. SOLD
1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
1998 Nissan 240SX SE New!
And a 2000 Suzuki SV650
Well, what seems to be contradictory info is really sometimes just incomplete info. LS just requires some extra prepping to rev like a VTEC. Some of the principal differences between the B18 VTEC motors and the LS are: 1mm larger rod bolts on slightly beefier rods, oil squirters under the pistons, and a girdle across the 3 center crank main caps.
You can get stock or aftermarket girdles to stiffen up the bottom end. Definitely pick up ARP rod bolts, especially if you plan to boost. Some suggest going a bit further with shot-peening rods & using VTEC water pump (which turns a bit slower to avoid cavitation at higher revs) and even oil pump.
Mods: All stock, for now. Hooked up the stereo though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by klungemonger
Well, what seems to be contradictory info is really sometimes just incomplete info. LS just requires some extra prepping to rev like a VTEC. Some of the principal differences between the B18 VTEC motors and the LS are: 1mm larger rod bolts on slightly beefier rods, oil squirters under the pistons, and a girdle across the 3 center crank main caps.
You can get stock or aftermarket girdles to stiffen up the bottom end. Definitely pick up ARP rod bolts, especially if you plan to boost. Some suggest going a bit further with shot-peening rods & using VTEC water pump (which turns a bit slower to avoid cavitation at higher revs) and even oil pump.
Good info. Thanks. The VTEC blocks are also a bit stronger due to more webbing. I always recommend a VTEC waterpump for high performance LS-block setups. For my B18C1, I upgraded to an ITR oil pump, and highly recommend it.
Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
1997 GSR- 192whp 130wtq all motor. SOLD
1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
1998 Nissan 240SX SE New!
And a 2000 Suzuki SV650