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Old 09-17-2006, 11:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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What else do I need?

I have a 1992 Integra GS. I originally was going to boost this car but i decided to build it up all motor so i could play with it at the track till i get all the turbo parts. I have already purchased all the parts below and I am waiting on the head gasket and ARP head studs to come in so I can get started. Can I bolt all this stuff on and be good to go or is there something else I "need" like a chip or Hondata? BTW: I went with the block guard, ARP studs and Cometic head gasket cause I may spray it in the future.

Thanks,

B18A

*Stock short block
*Block guard
*Ported JG LS head with high lift springs and ferrera valves
*Crower stage 1 cams
*Cometic head gasket
*ARP head studs
*Blox intake manifold and bored throttle body
* 4 into 2 header
*Cold air intake
*MSD cap,coil and wires
*Under drive pulleys
*255 lph fuel pump


GSR Transmission
Quaife LSD
Competition clutch stage 4
Light weight flywheel
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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it would be best to get an ems so you can properly tune it
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Old 09-18-2006, 03:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoopy
it would be best to get an ems so you can properly tune it
I have plans to go with neptune when I go turbo. The only thing I am lacking on my turbo set-up is a sleeved Benson block. Probably 2 months away cause right now my mustang is consuming all the mod money.

For now I am going to play with the timing and fuel pressure and see if I can get it to run decent.

Decent=High 14's in the 1/4
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I would opt for Crower 403 or 404 cams. If you didn't want to eat the depreciation of used cams at least go with the 402T cams which will benefit you now from high lift but are designed for turbo so you could keep them in your next setup. And, while you're opening up the block for blockguard and all that, get rid of your stock pistons and put some B16 slugs in there. Unless you're definitely tuning & going with an all-motor cam though I'd shy away from the CTR pistons might be too extreme.
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Old 09-23-2006, 02:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What would B16 pistons do for me?

Are they the same size as the stock LS pistons.

I went with the 402's cause they seemed to best match the power band of the LS engine.
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Old 09-23-2006, 03:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just ordered the B16 pistons with new rings.

11 to 1 compression sounds good.
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Old 09-23-2006, 03:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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so do you still plan to boost in the future?
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Old 09-23-2006, 08:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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That clutch is WAAAY overkill. You only need a stage 1, maybe stage 2.

Stage 4 is for 400+hp. It would never be streetable.
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Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
1997 GSR- 192whp 130wtq all motor. SOLD
1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
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And a 2000 Suzuki SV650
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Old 09-24-2006, 03:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirfallsalot243
That clutch is WAAAY overkill. You only need a stage 1, maybe stage 2.

Stage 4 is for 400+hp. It would never be streetable.
Strip Series 1620 Clutch Kit
The CC Strip 1620 series kit is the ultimate road and track performance kit. This assembly allows for ease of gear transition and smoother take off. Strip Series 1620 is designed for street or track use for vehicles with a 150-250% increase in torque capacity. This unit reduces unwanted heat and increases holding capacity.

I always overkill the clutch cause its better to have too much than not enough. Plus there is alot of room to grow. Not to mention I also own a 1990 mustang, a 1995 TSI Talon, a 1992 300zx and a 1995 Tahoe. So it doesnt have to see much street use.

My mustang and Talon are track toys. The Integra wont be any different.

I never planned on boosting this motor i am saving for a sleeved and built B20.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_5.0
I went with the 402's cause they seemed to best match the power band of the LS engine.
You're a car guy, you know you don't buy cams to match the stock powerband! You pick a set based on teh powerband you want to have. A 1.8 all-motor needs RPM to make horsepower, that's why the 404 is the favorite amont non-VTEC enthusiasts.
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klungemonger
You're a car guy, you know you don't buy cams to match the stock powerband! You pick a set based on teh powerband you want to have. A 1.8 all-motor needs RPM to make horsepower, that's why the 404 is the favorite amont non-VTEC enthusiasts.
I thought the LS couldnt rev like a Vtec because of an inferior rocker arm design. Is this not the case?

Also from what I could tell the 402's seem to work well with nitrous.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The LS cant rev as high as the VTEC, not because of the head, but because the bottom end cant handle that kind of RPM. Thats why LSVTEC is stupid.
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Integra Arsenal:
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1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sirfallsalot243
The LS cant rev as high as the VTEC, not because of the head, but because the bottom end cant handle that kind of RPM. Thats why LSVTEC is stupid.
Now thats some interesting info. Thats the problem I am having with the Honda thing. Everytime I think I learn something someone contradicts it.

The 402's have a 7500rpm powerband I should be able to rev that right?
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Old 09-25-2006, 02:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, what seems to be contradictory info is really sometimes just incomplete info. LS just requires some extra prepping to rev like a VTEC. Some of the principal differences between the B18 VTEC motors and the LS are: 1mm larger rod bolts on slightly beefier rods, oil squirters under the pistons, and a girdle across the 3 center crank main caps.

You can get stock or aftermarket girdles to stiffen up the bottom end. Definitely pick up ARP rod bolts, especially if you plan to boost. Some suggest going a bit further with shot-peening rods & using VTEC water pump (which turns a bit slower to avoid cavitation at higher revs) and even oil pump.
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Old 09-25-2006, 02:36 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klungemonger
Well, what seems to be contradictory info is really sometimes just incomplete info. LS just requires some extra prepping to rev like a VTEC. Some of the principal differences between the B18 VTEC motors and the LS are: 1mm larger rod bolts on slightly beefier rods, oil squirters under the pistons, and a girdle across the 3 center crank main caps.

You can get stock or aftermarket girdles to stiffen up the bottom end. Definitely pick up ARP rod bolts, especially if you plan to boost. Some suggest going a bit further with shot-peening rods & using VTEC water pump (which turns a bit slower to avoid cavitation at higher revs) and even oil pump.
Good info. Thanks. The VTEC blocks are also a bit stronger due to more webbing. I always recommend a VTEC waterpump for high performance LS-block setups. For my B18C1, I upgraded to an ITR oil pump, and highly recommend it.
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Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
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1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
1998 Nissan 240SX SE New!
And a 2000 Suzuki SV650
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