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Old 02-23-2004, 10:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
SH Black Diamond
 
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auto to manual

how hard it is to swap a b20 manual in place of an auto crx? how bout a manual crx? Im going to make a CRVTEC (b20 block + B16 head)
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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auto to a stick?
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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good luck with it post some pics when done
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Old 02-25-2004, 09:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Hey SG... you tend to change your mind a lot about what engine you wanna swap into a rex....

Let me offer up some advice (take it or leave it):
A lot of people come to me asking what engine to swap in their cars, I usually tell them none.. to keep the stock engine and work with it. I say that for many reasons... 1. because I'm a tuner, not an installer, 2. because I live in an area of strick smog regulations, 3. because for HP per $ numbers, sticking with a tuned stock engine is usually the best way to go.
However, lots of people like the idea of having LOTS of room to expand. truth is.. a lot of these guys have spent in upwards of $5000 on their cars and engines only to get waisted every time buy my 1.5l SOHC civic. One of my friends wanted to swap a B16 into her rex.. saying if she was gonna do something to her car, why not make it big and stand out... well it didn't, the B-16 was pulled and sold within days. Now, after $2300 in engine work, she's got a pretty damn fast, smog legal, daily driven CRX for about half of what other people spend just swaping a stock engine. Depending on how much you REALLY want to spend (be realistic) and how long you're going to have this car (don't spend 5000 swapping an engine and plan on spending another 2500 tuning it later) you might want to stick with just a stock Si motor.. or maybe do a Mini Me on top of that... remember that you're gonna want to upgrade both the apearance and performance of the ride.. suspension, interior, all that other stuff... oncee you add a motor swap to that, you could be spending $10,000 on a CRX that you'll still only sell for $4-5000. Just my 2 cents... Doing that work yourself can save a LOT of money. if you do happen across a great deal (like a B16 for 500 or so) then go for it... but just remember to look at the whole picture, plan for both tuning and swapping, and count the costs of both and compare the possible Hp figures, you might just end up staying stock
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Old 02-25-2004, 12:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
SH Silver
 
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and there are those of us that don't give two shits about the resale value(sell my crx, are you fucking nuts??) AND want to eat v8's alive all day everyday. I don't care what it costs. I started saving last month, and it will probably be.. november 2005 before i can complete my engine. But those are the breaks, and its what it will take to do what I want.

-Dave
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Old 02-25-2004, 12:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by d3f4ult
and there are those of us that don't give two shits about the resale value(sell my crx, are you fucking nuts??) AND want to eat v8's alive all day everyday. I don't care what it costs. I started saving last month, and it will probably be.. november 2005 before i can complete my engine. But those are the breaks, and its what it will take to do what I want.

-Dave
I was only posting both sides so that someone could make an educated guess based on more than one experience. I'm sick of all the CRXs and Civics running around my area with $5000 engine swaps that just make a bunch of noise and get stomped by V8s all day long. Swap in a stock B16 for 3000.. good now you're running low 14s, they make full size trucks that run faster than that stock. I just finished my CRX, I spent a total of les than 3400 (including the price of the car, right down to the cost of oil and radiator fluid) we dynod the car at 267 peak HP (7800 rpm) the ECU hasn't been tuned, and we're not even half way done with the dyno today, how much are you going to spend to get your engine swap to make that much power ALL motor? while I'm busy racing my foot off this summer, you'll be mowing lawns and baby sitting just to save enough for motor mounts... good luck
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Old 02-25-2004, 12:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
SH Silver
 
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/stfu

spending alot of money, but not going all motor. Building for 550-650 hp

mostly race.
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Old 02-25-2004, 12:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by d3f4ult
/stfu
I'm in a bad mood today, broke a wheel on my Civic (stupid pot holes) and it's rainy and wet as hell outside

Quote:

spending alot of money, but not going all motor. Building for 550-650 hp

mostly race.

Just so you don't think I'm trying to force my opinion on people, I do happen to own 2 turbo cars (My 90 RHD EF8 CRX SiR, and an 89 Nissan Silvia S13) and a supercharged VW ('98 Golf with a twin supercharged Audi V6, tube chassi and carbon fiber bodied)
But I seriously doubt that SG wants to race his CRX, and all that money you spend on your rex isn't going to win you much in return, not with 600hp
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
SH Black Diamond
 
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my goals are 300 whp 200 wtq. Ill go FI, not sure if Turbo or SC. my car will have lotsa go, and a little show. Could i really get this out of a stock crx engine? The highest one was just 108hp/100tq.
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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to answer your quesion simply... yes. you can. the D16 SOHC that I mention in my friends car earlier makes 320 on nitrous, about 250 off nitrous. the reason we went with nitrous is because it's drivable all day long without having to use high octane gas just to go to work, but it packs a punch when the nitrous is activated. If you're really set on just having turbo, B-series is the best choice for reliability... there are plenty of smog legal turbo kits out there. Are you interested in having the fastest rex in your area? showing it? or racing it in competition? or just want you beat your dad's Mustang? (I know that's what got me into my first CRX)
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
SH Black Diamond
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by ol'skoolrex_PH
to answer your quesion simply... yes. you can. the D16 SOHC that I mention in my friends car earlier makes 320 on nitrous, about 250 off nitrous. the reason we went with nitrous is because it's drivable all day long without having to use high octane gas just to go to work, but it packs a punch when the nitrous is activated. If you're really set on just having turbo, B-series is the best choice for reliability... there are plenty of smog legal turbo kits out there. Are you interested in having the fastest rex in your area? showing it? or racing it in competition? or just want you beat your dad's Mustang? (I know that's what got me into my first CRX)
I don't want to be the FASTEST but, i want to be able to hold my own against the fast people around here. Most cars around me (oceanside) are owned by highschoolers (like me) that dont know how to drive them, and dont know shit about cars. They pay a shop 200 bucks to put on DC headers for their 95 civic, and wonder hoy they spent $750 and still loose to a crx.
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Old 02-26-2004, 12:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Well in my opinion, the only reason why i would keep my d16a6 would to go turbo on it. Other than that, i would go all motor. that is my opinion, like going b16 and fully building that.
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Old 02-26-2004, 01:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
Digital Blueprint
 
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SG, if you plan on going with a turbo, you can get away with turbocharging more on small bore, long stroke engines. With a larger bore, it takes longer to initiate combustion and you need to retard ignition timing under boost. You start wasting a lot of energy when you have to do that type of thing. A non VTEC B18 LS would be the perfect cantidate. the VTEC engines are made more for high revs and thus have a shorter stroke (shorter stroke allows high revs, longer allows more low end torque)

an LS b18 should be relatively cheep and easy to find compared to a B18c or a CRV and B16 head... VTEC is a great thing, but it's better left to the all motor guys that need some way of forcing more air in at higher RPMS.. with turbo or other forced induction, you don't have to worry about that, you'll have a fat compressor feeding all kinds of air to your engine.
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