Ay Babay...Ay Babay!!!

[drummingpariah]

Originally Posted by hndacvcsi

245-series tires! DO IT!

I sourced out a couple Camaro electric fans for $20 (for the pair) that I'll have to make a pair of mounting brackets for, but they should work beautifully on this motor.

I started tearing down the motor, and found out why it was seized up. Bear with me here. There's no rust, even though it looks like there is. I actually think some dirt/mud/clay got into the motor somehow (maybe an animal living in the intake manifold while it sat?):


Only the rear cylinder was affected. The other side (driver's side) was much more interesting. Bear in mind, that cylinder was at the BOTTOM of its stroke, meaning that the valves were completely closed.


I let them soak in some wd-40 overnight, and will soak them in some diesel tonight for a half hour or so. Underneath the 'shells' (as I'm calling them), the cylinder walls are smooth as a baby's bottom (just like all the other cylinders) which means I definitely need a hone, possibly a bore.

I hope to have the block and heads in the machine shop by Friday, and hopefully be able to pick them up next week (might take a little longer, which I'm okay with, with the following done:

• honed/bored cylinder walls (as required)
• cleaned/polished crank
• slightly milled heads (shooting for 9.5:1 compression out of this)
• completely hot-tanked block and heads
• ported and polished valve openings (I'll probably do this myself, they don't need much work to be gasket matched).

All the main seals will be replaced in the process, and I'll probably repaint it after I get it back. I'm considering a new oil pump (so the oil pan doesn't stick down so far) and a new-style oil filter (the old style was both heavy and hard to change out). All told, not a bad deal for a free motor (as long as it's salvageable).

[jordan_myers]

Just priced together an exhaust for my rex...$80 for 2.5" straight from the header back, into an ebay muffler (least ricey one I could find) and customized left exit with a slight upward slant. By the way someone correct if I'm wrong but dx hubs will support b18a drive shafts correct? I tried to put the dx axle in the hub on my donor vehicle that sports teggy hubs and it fit so the way I see it it should work....I hoping to have her started in a week, but I need to find someone who does sandblasting for my valve cover and header. By the way anyone ever use header tape? I found some the says it's good for up to 1000 degrees but like I said, I'm a no0b (god I can't believe I'm admitting this) when it comes to header wrap..My old man is going to do the wrapping, but heven he's not sure about the temp.

[hndacvcsi]

Originally Posted by jordan_myers

Just priced together an exhaust for my rex...$80 for 2.5" straight from the header back, into an ebay muffler (least ricey one I could find) and customized left exit with a slight upward slant. By the way someone correct if I'm wrong but dx hubs will support b18a drive shafts correct? I tried to put the dx axle in the hub on my donor vehicle that sports teggy hubs and it fit so the way I see it it should work....I hoping to have her started in a week, but I need to find someone who does sandblasting for my valve cover and header. By the way anyone ever use header tape? I found some the says it's good for up to 1000 degrees but like I said, I'm a no0b (god I can't believe I'm admitting this) when it comes to header wrap..My old man is going to do the wrapping, but heven he's not sure about the temp.

its a matter of opinion really i dont think you will need it but it does work to some degree. and instead of using a sandblaster just get some aircraft remover. it will strip all paint from the valve cover so you can re paint any color you want i will include a pic of my b16 valve cover for reference. and as a side note because its aluminum i left it this way because of the great condition its badass when u pop the hood and see it staring back at you

drumming i really feel for you bro. as u stated for a free motor its still pretty in comparison, but lets just hope you didnt inherit someone elses nightmare, as they would say

[drummingpariah]

Originally Posted by hndacvcsi

drumming i really feel for you bro. as u stated for a free motor its still pretty in comparison, but lets just hope you didnt inherit someone elses nightmare, as they would say

I won't be afraid to run away from this if things begin to turn south. I have the 283 that I could still rebuild, and finding another 350 block won't be much trouble. At this point, I have at least one set of camel-hump heads (300-400hp before hogging out, more with a valvetrain rebuild) that could be thrown on a 350 head, and the cam and crankshaft look good. I have plenty that I could work with, and getting some small-block chevy assembled shouldn't be a big deal. I just want to make sure this block is clean and clear and worth rebuilding. I'm kind of a big fan of the 327, to be honest.

[drummingpariah]

Originally Posted by jordan_myers

Just priced together an exhaust for my rex...$80 for 2.5" straight from the header back, into an ebay muffler (least ricey one I could find) and customized left exit with a slight upward slant. By the way someone correct if I'm wrong but dx hubs will support b18a drive shafts correct? I tried to put the dx axle in the hub on my donor vehicle that sports teggy hubs and it fit so the way I see it it should work....I hoping to have her started in a week, but I need to find someone who does sandblasting for my valve cover and header. By the way anyone ever use header tape? I found some the says it's good for up to 1000 degrees but like I said, I'm a no0b (god I can't believe I'm admitting this) when it comes to header wrap..My old man is going to do the wrapping, but heven he's not sure about the temp.

Header wrap isn't really a good idea for a street car. Excess heat causes the steel to corrode more quickly, and if you're using cheap headers, you may find yourself replacing them every 10k miles or so (seriously). The wrap is a good idea for a race engine where you're trying to sap every last bit of performance and plan to replace the headers every few races anyway, but on a street car, the reliability hit isn't worth it IMHO.

The hubs should be the same, but you'll need to remove the dust covers from the DX hubs (if they're still attached). The spline count and depth should be the same.

While you're under there, why not just replace the knuckles and brakes with Integra components? Integra -> CRX brake swap « Madness Shop Manual

[jordan_myers]

Originally Posted by drummingpariah

Header wrap isn't really a good idea for a street car. Excess heat causes the steel to corrode more quickly, and if you're using cheap headers, you may find yourself replacing them every 10k miles or so (seriously). The wrap is a good idea for a race engine where you're trying to sap every last bit of performance and plan to replace the headers every few races anyway, but on a street car, the reliability hit isn't worth it IMHO.

The hubs should be the same, but you'll need to remove the dust covers from the DX hubs (if they're still attached). The spline count and depth should be the same.

While you're under there, why not just replace the knuckles and brakes with Integra components? Integra -> CRX brake swap « Madness Shop Manual

Thanks for the input on the header wrap...As for the Teggy knuckles and brakes, I has planned on doing this once the engine and interior is finished when I do the full suspension overhaul (bushings, skunk2 coilovers, teggy knuckles/brakes on the front and back [rear disc conversion], master/slave cylinders, stainless lines, kyb gas adjustables, front and rear upper and lower supports, trailing arms, sway bars, camber kits, and a few others that I can't think of now)...This will probably be done around Aug. as I need to get a job/monies as my last 300 will be going into my exhaust, halfshafts, and new carpet so I can install my interior that I got off of Bam.

[solsykness]

what's up guys...just doing my routine check in....

[drummingpariah]

Originally Posted by solsykness

what's up guys...just doing my routine check in....

My engine seized, so I bought a new one... for free (because it was seized). Then the police stole my car because it was parked on the side of the road (in a legal parking zone, legally registered and insured) and I'm planning to take them to court in the near future on the grounds that I was never contacted in any way. Oh, and I had wasps living in my engine (I think they were wasps anyway).

[hndacvcsi]

Originally Posted by drummingpariah

My engine seized, so I bought a new one... for free (because it was seized). Then the police stole my car because it was parked on the side of the road (in a legal parking zone, legally registered and insured) and I'm planning to take them to court in the near future on the grounds that I was never contacted in any way. Oh, and I had wasps living in my engine (I think they were wasps anyway).

well damn wheres a parking lot when you need one lol thats fucked up so they just snatched it? im guessing they took it because it looks a bit stripped ??? sue the fuck out of them and then you can get a nice 327 crate motor hahaha

[drummingpariah]

Originally Posted by hndacvcsi

well damn wheres a parking lot when you need one lol thats fucked up so they just snatched it? im guessing they took it because it looks a bit stripped ??? sue the fuck out of them and then you can get a nice 327 crate motor hahaha

I'm just looking to cover the impound and tow costs, and get the car into my garage so I can get my motor to the machinist, rebuild it, and shove it in there. Wish me luck, I hope to pick it up tonight!

[drummingpariah]

Can you guys digg it?
Digg - HOWTO: b18a1 into a CRX swap

[hndacvcsi]

Originally Posted by drummingpariah

Can you guys digg it?
Digg - HOWTO: b18a1 into a CRX swap

ah the ol bitch pin