B18a into CRX swap - Honda Forum / Acura Forum

drummingpariah · 08-31-2006, 06:13 PM

Disclaimer:
This is my a work in progress of how to swap a B18A1 into a '89-'91 CRX Si. Use this guide at your own risk. I will not accept responsibility for any mishaps due to the information given in this swap guide. It contains all the information you will need if you use it concurrently with the B18a1 service manual. Be sure to read this though because there is some info here that you probably not read before and you wont find this in the service manuals. Any information or images posted in this thread are understood to be used in an online howto guide, and by posting here, you are giving permission for me to repost or otherwise reproduce all materials offered. Thanks, and I hope this ends up helping at least one person!

Where it began:
I ruined my d16a6 motor from my '91 CRX Si by throwing a rod out the block. A friend of mine had totalled his '91 Integra GS, but the b18a1 engine came out of it just fine. I decided that it was meant to be, and started making plans to put that b18 into my d16 slot.

Before: d16a6

After (current): b18a1

drummingpariah · 08-31-2006, 06:27 PM

Step #1: Research.

I found quite a few online resources to point me in the right direction on what I'd need, and what to be prepared for.
http://www.crxresource.org/modules....article&sid=134 - almost everything you need to know, but not SPECIFICALLY for the b18a1. Most of the B16 stuff is the same.

http://www.norcalcrx.org/droppedcrxsi/step-by-step.htm - another great resource on CRX engine swapping.

I did find a few more that are Civic swaps to the B-series, but those were marginally useful, and I'm trying to keep everything to CRX. Anyway, to continue my documentation on my CRX swap, read on!

In the beginning, there was a car with a blown engine...

(that's the front of the engine, you're looking at the dipstick there)

At this point, I've already detatched radiator hoses, pulled the radiator, and taken off a tire. I got the exhaust manifold off (just unbolted all the bolts) the engine, and as soon as the engine is 1/2 foot up on the engine hoist, the exhaust manifold will come right out. I'll post pics of that if I remember.

The clutch and throttle cables are both removed, very simple removal if you have a good light. Basically, on the pedals side, the throttle cable just needs a plastic holder detatched from the pedal, and it slides right out the side. The clutch cable just needs to be pulled taut and lifted and the piece that holds it on comes right off. On the other end, if you move the throttle adjuster to WOT (wide open throttle) you can pop the cable right out of the throttle body (i had to jimmy mine a bit, but it ended up moving for me). The clutch cable is simple and self-explanitory on the transmission end. Just look at it for 30 seconds, you'll see how it comes out, that's the simplest end of any of the cables.

Start with the battery. It gives you room to breathe, and keeps random sparks from going on.

Radiator hoses came off very messily (I put a tarp under a very old rug and used drain pans the bulk of my removal), and the radiator came out without hassle. I have no air conditioning so I'm not even going to begin covering that issue. I recommend removing the radiator, but it's not 100% required, and it's a really easy bit of work to make all the other bits of work 100% easier.

There were a ton of extra hoses and cables going through the firewall. Leave the fusebox that's in the engine bay alone. There are two ground wires you'll have to unscrew that go directly to the engine. Basically, there are wiring clips for every wire that goes to the engine. Use those clips as your place of disconnect. I went around the engine clockwise, clearing out whatever needed to be moved to make sure nothing was connected to the motor other than the 4 motor mounts. Cables, hoses, fuel lines, etc all came right out.

There are two black cylinders next on the clockwise rotation from the fuse box. One is the PCV valve, the other is the fuel filter. You'll probably want to replace the fuel filter, but again, not 100% necessary. Relieve the fuel pressure before disconnecting the lines by loosening the bolt for the fuel line going to the fuel rail on the engine. It saves you from having gas all over the place, and having to deal with that smell.

drummingpariah · 09-29-2006, 10:53 AM

I got something done!

here's an update...

The engine made it in...

it's so pretty...

I have not touched the vacuum lines yet, I still have both MAP sensors in the engine bay for now.

This little two-prong wiring clip has me at more or less of a standstill. I think it goes to A/C, which I've ripped out, but I want to be sure before I turn the key.

This thumb clip does not fit onto this pointer clip. They don't reach. Stupid d16a6 engine wiring harness on the b18a1 engine. A quick knife slice to the plastic looming solves that issue.

drummingpariah · 09-29-2006, 11:12 AM

Just adding in some pics from along the way. couldn't have made it this far without help. Thanks to all participants, and you're welcome back any time.

I think this shift linkage adapter is bent, and could pose a problem, but I'm not sure. Anybody else have some info?
*edit* found out that this is actually correct, it's not supposed to run parallel to the framerails of the car, but points toward the passenger's seat.

I have two axles, one for the driver's side, one for passenger's. I don't know which is which, though. It's a dilemma. Anybody have some info on this? One has shorter splines than the other.

hondapride59 · 09-30-2006, 02:51 PM

good to see your project coming along more and more

only thing i would have done was maybe sprayed the engine bay unless your gonna get it repainted tahitian green

is your car dropped any? the civic i'm buying with b18a1 is dropped alot and the camber is off alot and with this engien it spins tire through 3rd gear...so if ur dropped i would possibly look into a camber kit

drummingpariah · 10-02-2006, 07:13 PM

Haven't lowered it yet, because I don't have struts or a camber kit. I have the springs already (H&R Sport *EDIT - found out they're H&R RACE springs*) but without the struts, they pose the risk of popping out of their housings, plus the camber problem. When I finally do lower it, I'm doing it right, no messing around for me. Good tip to know about that, that the b18 drops your car lower due to the added weight. You know they have springs made specifically for CRX b18 swaps?

I'm actually painting everything next spring, so I'm not worrying about prettiness for now. That and the fact that the whole car is 6 different colors... Take care when you order a camber kit. It's easy to screw yourself on our little Hondas. Many other manufacturers are much easier to adjust camber, but we get the shaft in that aspect. Spend the extra money, get a decent kit.

hondapride59 · 10-02-2006, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drummingpariah

I'm actually painting everything next spring, so I'm not worrying about prettiness for now. That and the fact that the whole car is 6 different colors... Take care when you order a camber kit. It's easy to screw yourself on our little Hondas. Many other manufacturers are much easier to adjust camber, but we get the shaft in that aspect. Spend the extra money, get a decent kit.

actually my cousin who i'm buying the car off of, has a skunk 2 camber kit already mostly paid off it only needs liek 75 more dollars and the place is gonna install it for free

but yea i didnt know they made specific springs for swaps. its nice to see you got good plans for this car, the civic i'm buyign is probably just gonna get beat to hell till the motor blows and i'll swap in a new one and then start making it nice, sicne i knwo it was previously beat on but for some reaosn it just keeps kickin

drummingpariah · 10-02-2006, 09:55 PM

beaten honda engines don't complain until they overheat. I've seen plenty of race cars down at the Enduros with 250k + miles on them and 50+ races on them that're still kicking and placing in the top 5 places, every race. Just because it's been beat on doesn't mean there's anything wrong with it.

but I really can't say anything, because I beat the hell outta my d16a6 until it threw a rod, and started the swap with this b18a1 because it was around.

hondapride59 · 10-03-2006, 04:19 AM

yea i'm pretty sure this motor only has roughly 140k on it, which is still low and its been abused but the only thing that went was the tranny, which was changed

i'm interested to see what your car will do when you get it all done, since this car cant get traction it ran like 15.1 or somethign in the quarter, its upsetting but the little things need worked out, and i actually have the intentions of drivign a nice car(unliek most honda drivers around here)

drummingpariah · 10-03-2006, 05:35 AM

i hope this someday turns out to be a nice car, for now it's going to be a sleeper. then i'll install my turbo project and suspension, and we'll see from there. i have some really interesting dash and climate control features i'm working on with a friend of mine that will add an entirely new twist into this car, but overall i want to keep the whole thing simple and CLEAN. I have two little oil line openings in my transmission that have no hoses on them (don't know if they were removed during the swap process) and I have no idea what they go to. I need to find out before I get the radiator hose and try firing it up, if anybody knows what they are, please let me know!

drummingpariah · 10-27-2006, 12:36 PM

YAY, it runs! started it up, loud as hell running open headers (the header goes too far for the cat mounts). still can't shift, lacking a shift linkage. I also have to tighten down my new axles (the driver's side was a bitch to get it, had to get a wood spacer and hammer it in). I'll take some pics and post them this afternoon. I also need to find out what the strange oil lines from the transmission go to.

doobieboy · 10-27-2006, 01:53 PM

lol coming along very nicely! those motors were stronger then a D series (last i checked) and will make a nice daily motor, or if you plan on going turbo im sure it could easily do that too

drummingpariah · 10-27-2006, 01:58 PM

I'd say that overall consensus puts this as the best daily-driver engine. Puts out approximately 130hp, 7200rpm redline, built like a tank. Takes well to mild turbo, but falls short on very high-end applications, at which point a k20 or b18c engine would be a better platform. Another huge plus is the gobs of torque this motor puts out. Just need to work out the little kinks in it.