d16z6 Mini-Me Swap

[FU510N]

My friend is looking for some HP gains without having to fork out too much money for a full motor swap . I was thinking about doing the d16z6 Mini-me Swap on his 1988 CRX. I heard that this swap can give 30-35 HP gains. If any one has done this and has input let me know. If there is a better head swap that he can do, what would that be.

[hcvcrx]

Thats the same thing I'm trying to figure out right now I'm trying to decide between ZC dohc head direct bolt up or sohc vtec which takes alittle more work with vtec wiring and head gasket and vtec oil line.

[ksniperfox]

first, a mini me swap is just a head swap. a d16z6 swap means swapping an entire d16z6 engine.

both would be fairly easy. if you just want the head swap, it would yield about 25-30 horses on a d16a1. idk about d15. plan on buying the head, vtec solenoid, and a p28 ecu i think, and im not sure but quite possibly a obd0-obd1 converison may be required.

[Pullinaheadh22]

Originally Posted by ksniperfox

first, a mini me swap is just a head swap. a d16z6 swap means swapping an entire d16z6 engine.

both would be fairly easy. if you just want the head swap, it would yield about 25-30 horses on a d16a1. idk about d15. plan on buying the head, vtec solenoid, and a p28 ecu i think, and im not sure but quite possibly a obd0-obd1 converison may be required.

the crx is obd0 the d6 is outta 93-95 ex so obd1 converstion would be required.

[albertodawn]

hey im trying to do the same thing to my rex and a guy hooked me up with this page its got all you need for the mini me swap from parts to instructions let me know if you need anything else i can prob. help you out some..


try this link~~~>
http://www.angelfire.com/dc2/cyber13/minimeinfo.html

[SuperSleeper]

OBD1 conversion is not needed. Here's the article I wrote regarding my sohc vtec swap.

D15b1 sohc vtec Swap Guide

[DeathIsCertain]

Originally Posted by SuperSleeper

OBD1 conversion is not needed. Here's the article I wrote regarding my sohc vtec swap.

D15b1 sohc vtec Swap Guide

you're right, its not needed but take it from me and a lot of others on this topic, do it right the first time. Run it OBD-1 which is what the engine was made for.....dont hack and ****** rig shit just to make it work like running an rpm-activated switch or anything of the sorts.....just go obd-1...its simple.

- obd1 ecu
- conversion harness
- run 3 wires for vtec

youre done.

[DeathIsCertain]

o yea and make sure you have an obd1 dizzy as well

[AK_CRX]

IMO doing an 0bd0 to obd-1 conversion just for a mini-me is a good way to turn a cheap and easy mod into an expensive and drawn out mod. keep it PM6, buy a VAFC and do some poor boy tuning and it will be making more power than if you had spent that money on an obd-1 conversion. its cheaper and easier, runs the same. When the engine isn't in vtec your pm6 will run the engine just like stock, PSST, your ECU doesn't know its vtec! The only downside to this is that your pm6 doesn't have different ignition maps for vtec, so its not as advanced as it could be with a p28, simple fix, rotate your dizzy to max advance and run premium gas to counter the ping, add fuel at the rpms your hear knocking, lean it out where you can with the VAFC, then figure out the optimum vtec crossover rpm at a track day. better than spending $100+ for an ecu, $270 for a dizzy, plus however much for the jumper harness and of course your time. In my opinion theres no benifit of doing an obd-1 conversion

[nikozai]

Ok, the Rywire has spoken: LOL

1. Chip a OBD0 PR3/PW0 ECU with D-Series VTEC fuel maps, disable knock, and mount some ghetto Si OBD0 Distributor to the D16z6 head and you're as close as you can get to running it correctly as OBD0.

ANYTHING ELSE, and that includes running VAFC is a waste and won't yield the same performance gains. VTEC Switches will engage VTEC, but where's the fuel coming from to make that power? it's not... you lean out, you don't go any faster and yes it will sound louder. "VTACK POPS YO"

2. I just picked up a complete d16z6 swap off craigslist (this is an avg. price) for $350 with tranny and all, bought an OBD0-1 ECU Jumper from myself for $100.
Sold the d16z6 tranny for $150, sold my old Si MPFI components as a package for $250. Sold the D16z6 wire harness for $100.
I made money off doing this swap THE RIGHT WAY.
There's no reason to be ghetto and use OBD0 Components.
Buying VAFC is way more expensive than getting a P28 chipped, you could get the P28 and bring it to the Dyno for less!

=) So there you have it: Run OBD1, It's right, and it's cheaper.
rywire.com

[charliemopps24]

Originally Posted by FU510N

My friend is looking for some HP gains without having to fork out too much money for a full motor swap . I was thinking about doing the d16z6 Mini-me Swap on his 1988 CRX. I heard that this swap can give 30-35 HP gains. If any one has done this and has input let me know. If there is a better head swap that he can do, what would that be.

What trim level car you got. I'm selling the D16A6 out of my 91 Si. I've beaten many a Z6 with it. Plus I'm selling it cheaper than you'd find any other Z6($200-$250), and you dont have to mess with obd.

[AK_CRX]

Originally Posted by nikozai

Ok, the Rywire has spoken: LOL

1. Chip a OBD0 PR3/PW0 ECU with D-Series VTEC fuel maps, disable knock, and mount some ghetto Si OBD0 Distributor to the D16z6 head and you're as close as you can get to running it correctly as OBD0.

ANYTHING ELSE, and that includes running VAFC is a waste and won't yield the same performance gains. VTEC Switches will engage VTEC, but where's the fuel coming from to make that power? it's not... you lean out, you don't go any faster and yes it will sound louder. "VTACK POPS YO"

2. I just picked up a complete d16z6 swap off craigslist (this is an avg. price) for $350 with tranny and all, bought an OBD0-1 ECU Jumper from myself for $100.
Sold the d16z6 tranny for $150, sold my old Si MPFI components as a package for $250. Sold the D16z6 wire harness for $100.
I made money off doing this swap THE RIGHT WAY.
There's no reason to be ghetto and use OBD0 Components.
Buying VAFC is way more expensive than getting a P28 chipped, you could get the P28 and bring it to the Dyno for less!

=) So there you have it: Run OBD1, It's right, and it's cheaper.
rywire.com

Leaning it out won't make anymore power? Ok, this boils down to the basis of what makes Hp. You sound pretty knowledgeable but this is a simple principle, leaner is meaner. Stock fuel maps for any oem honda ecu are very conservitive fuel wise(rich, over-compensating), They are intentionaly made to run richer than they need to so you don't have to worry about the car pinging when you put cheep 87 octane in it and drive it up hill with 5 passengers. The whole idea behind tuning in a nutshell is to get your car running on the correct fuel ratio to have maximum output without puting your engine in danger. Too much fuel you're losing power, too little and you're pinging. I succesfully dropped .3 from my quarter mile in an otherwise bone stock 90 CRX Si just with a day of playing with an Apexi AFC at the track. At most rpms you can lean that motor out about 18% and not ping. Trust me I know that OBD-1 and chrome or other similar setups can be worth their weight in gold on some setups ie. turbo past 10 psi, or a serious all motor build. but were not talking about an extremely high output setup here, its a mini-me, if a mini-me costs you more than $300 or more than 8 hours of your time total then its money/time spent wrong. Check my sig, nothing but obd-0 with an SAFC for tuning and three days of track time to get it dialed in. If OBD-0 and SAFC is good enough for that, I think it will do just fine on a mini-me

[skunkshifting]

VAFC is out there is no need when chipping a ECU is cheaper and easier.