Is my HF worth the trouble?

[J_valentin]

Is an Hf worth the trouble to find parts or should i just save up money and buy a SI?

Side Note: My hf has 261k miles, hasn't given me any major problems and is in great condition, only rust is at the wheel wells and is only the size of a half-dollar, and the engine leaks a bit of oil.

[drummingpariah]

Originally Posted by J_valentin

Is an Hf worth the trouble to find parts or should i just save up money and buy a SI?

Side Note: My hf has 261k miles, hasn't given me any major problems and is in great condition, only rust is at the wheel wells and is only the size of a half-dollar, and the engine leaks a bit of oil.

Yes, it's worth the trouble. The HF is essentially an si with crap suspension, a crap (power-wise) engine, and lots of weight reduction. If you're looking for something more peppy than the 4-wheeled go-cart you have, get an Si motor (d16a6) or an old Integra motor (d16a1), rebuild it with fresh rings, gaskets, and a piston wall hone, then install that and some decent suspension (talk to BAM[calicab] about what NOT to do for suspension).

Or if your budget allows, you could go for more serious power and get a b18a1 or a b18b (nonvtec Integra engines), or even a b18c1 or b18c5 (GSR and ITR engines). Focus on the rust first and foremost while you source out a new engine and figure out what you want. It's relatively easy to get an HF up to the same level as an Si.

[J_valentin]

Yea my brothers find has been telling me to get a GSR engine.

And the only difference better an HF and SI is the HF has a little bit weaker engine and not as good of a suspension?

[drummingpariah]

Originally Posted by J_valentin

Yea my brothers find has been telling me to get a GSR engine.

And the only difference better an HF and SI is the HF has a little bit weaker engine and not as good of a suspension?

There are TONS of little differences, like the brake light housing, brake sizes, wheel sizes and dimensions, transmission, gear ratios, exhaust diameter, bumpers, seats, gauges... the list goes on and on. The notable differences are the suspension, powertrain+drivetrain, and the extra weight the sunroof forces the Si to carry (mostly in reinforcement in the event of a crash).

If you're dead-set on getting an Si, go for it! They're great cars, I just wouldn't say they're great in comparison to a tuned-up HF. Make an SF!

[mocha907]

yes they are if you do it right with boost you can get decent power while retaining very good MPG

[J_valentin]

Well i guess it would make more since to put $2000 into my HF then to buy an SI with the $2000

Ok you said that the only difference in the SI and HF is the suspension and a little HP

I did some research and found these for my suspension, in yalls opinion what do you think?

(Springs)
H&R OE SportSsprings

(Shocks)
KYB AGX Adjustable gas shocks

And for my engine i was looking into a Skunk2 exhaust and then a header(not sure on which brand yet)

[drummingpariah]

Originally Posted by J_valentin

Well i guess it would make more since to put $2000 into my HF then to buy an SI with the $2000

Ok you said that the only difference in the SI and HF is the suspension and a little HP

I did some research and found these for my suspension, in yalls opinion what do you think?

(Springs)
H&R OE SportSsprings

(Shocks)
KYB AGX Adjustable gas shocks

And for my engine i was looking into a Skunk2 exhaust and then a header(not sure on which brand yet)

That suspension setup is what I recommend to anyone on a tight budget who doesn't want absolute crap. They aren't quite the best products on the market, but for the money you can't touch 'em.

For exhaust, I'd definitely suggest getting a cheap ebay header with good welds, and getting a custom stainless exhaust. Most custom shops will fabricate a full cat-back for $300 or so out of stainless. Just make sure they use a mandrel bender, not a crimp bender. Also, you'd end up with a straighter exhaust, which offers marginal performance improvements.

[mocha907]

Originally Posted by drummingpariah

That suspension setup is what I recommend to anyone on a tight budget who doesn't want absolute crap. They aren't quite the best products on the market, but for the money you can't touch 'em.

For exhaust, I'd definitely suggest getting a cheap ebay header with good welds, and getting a custom stainless exhaust. Most custom shops will fabricate a full cat-back for $300 or so out of stainless. Just make sure they use a mandrel bender, not a crimp bender. Also, you'd end up with a straighter exhaust, which offers marginal performance improvements.

what he said

[falcon]

Originally Posted by J_valentin

Well i guess it would make more since to put $2000 into my HF then to buy an SI with the $2000

Ok you said that the only difference in the SI and HF is the suspension and a little HP

I did some research and found these for my suspension, in yalls opinion what do you think?

(Springs)
H&R OE SportSsprings

(Shocks)
KYB AGX Adjustable gas shocks

And for my engine i was looking into a Skunk2 exhaust and then a header(not sure on which brand yet)

Not bad at all. But I have to suggest Koni Sports w/ Eibach prokit. I had that set-up on my 90 and 91 Crx si. Also, if you stick with the hf (which is totally worth it), a reasonable upgrade not to be forgotten would a disc brake conversion.

And def take care of that rust before it gets crazy.

[J_valentin]

Thanks for all the info and the tips.

Also i looked into the Koni Sports Springs and they are a out of my price range (but thanks anyway )
And with the Eibach prokit it seems like they slam your car to the ground, i mean i like the look but is it as bad as it looks, does 1.4/1.2 really change your car that dramatically?

But i have a question bout the disc brake conversion. I thought that drum brakes weren't that much worst and lighter so it helps you keep the weight in your HF down? Also im not going to the track with this car, and if i do it would be just for shits and giggles, so is it really that important to get the conversion?

Also i have someone lined up to fix the rust so that should be out of the way soon.

[drummingpariah]

Originally Posted by J_valentin

Thanks for all the info and the tips.

Also i looked into the Koni Sports Springs and they are a out of my price range (but thanks anyway )
And with the Eibach prokit it seems like they slam your car to the ground, i mean i like the look but is it as bad as it looks, does 1.4/1.2 really change your car that dramatically?

But i have a question bout the disc brake conversion. I thought that drum brakes weren't that much worst and lighter so it helps you keep the weight in your HF down? Also im not going to the track with this car, and if i do it would be just for shits and giggles, so is it really that important to get the conversion?

Also i have someone lined up to fix the rust so that should be out of the way soon.

Disc brakes are easier to maintain and give better heat dissipation, making them far better for the track. For daily driving, I'd say drum rears are just peachy. Just make sure you rebuild them every few years or so. Upgrading your fronts wouldn't be a bad idea, though.

[J_valentin]

Well when i do get around to the front-end disc brake change i will be sure to go over to your article on manual madness.

But in your opinion is it a hard swap? I wouldn't think it would be but I'm just wondering before i dive into the project.

[Pornogratherapy]

Didn't the HF also come with an 8 valve motor? HF's were meant for gas saving... hence the motor differences. With the way gas prices are going, I'd keep the HF fix the minor oil leak and keep it for a gas saver... then get another shell and drop a B series in it. But that's just me.

[mocha907]

Originally Posted by Pornogratherapy

Didn't the HF also come with an 8 valve motor? HF's were meant for gas saving... hence the motor differences. With the way gas prices are going, I'd keep the HF fix the minor oil leak and keep it for a gas saver... then get another shell and drop a B series in it. But that's just me.

i think a turbo would be alright too you won't get mad power but you'll have a somewhat quick car that as long as you keep your foot out of it it should still get 40 + MPG