Poly vs Solid motor mounts Advantages? Disadvantages?
I was wondering about what the advatages and disavantages of running solid motor mounts. I can't see why it could be bad if I had a good solid mount to the frame and stuff didn't break.
I mean.. there is an obvious advantage to stiffer mounts because people like Mugen make them for my car successfully... I've seen this done to some domestic trucks.. so what's the deal? is it worth the trouble.. wait.. i should ask that.. I am going through enogu trouble as it is... trouble is nothing to me
Steel.. you're an engineering student are you? any take on this?
Mods: AEM Cold Air, AEM Fuel Rail, AEM FPR, Spoon 4-1 Stainless Header, Spoon Test Pipe, Apex-I World Sport Exhaust, Intrax ARS Coil-Overs, Mugen Upper Front and Rear Strut Tower Bars, Benen Rear Lower Tie Bar, Spoon Front Lower Tie Bar, 16" Spoon SW-
OK...there are a couple of ways to look at it.
SOLID- your driveline is going to be totally fixed...meaning no twisting or shaking..so all the HP that your motor makes is going through the tranny rather than being wasted tilting itself or anything like that. So that is a good thing. Bad things would include what would probably be HORRIBLE motor vibration translated to your frame which could potentially loosen other things. Also...you are going to be putting more through your tranny which is a good thing...but having poly mounts means that they do absorb what could be potentially harmful initial shocks from your motor which could come from launches etc...
POLY - depending on the mounts that you choose they have a certain amount devoted to solid metal and polyeurathane. The more solid that you could get it while still having some kind of poly buffering would probably be the best combination. That way you still have some flex and shock absorbtion, while being more solid. If you compare the mounts from MUGEN to those from place or HASport you will see that the mugen mounts have a much lower percentage of poly than the HASport...this means that they are more rigid. So the still poly will give you an almost solid like driveline position...while still keeping your frame safe from all the motor vibrations.
Hope that helps man...
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Nighthawk Black Pearl 2001 ITR #052
Clockwork Motorsports
Temecula, CA
Hasport mounts are different from the PlaceRacing. HASport uses a pressed aluminum which allows the motors vibrations to be dampened a bit more. HCP uses very close to the same technology. The HASport mounts are great mounts.
The Placeracing are also great mounts. Thats what I run in my car and I do like them alot. However they have been shown to bring out the metal fatigue a bit more in older cars. For instance I had to have my rear crossmember re-welded due to metal problems. The use a Urethane in there bushings which is very nice for wear and tear but you can feel the motor more in the car.
And to note, I just dropped the school of engineering and am deciding to do something I actually enjoy.
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Steel
Former B16 CRX owner
14.1 @ 94 mph
thanks guys! I was looking for maybe a little more torque to the wheels that might be lost in the movement of the motor. But this car is a street driven monster, not a drag car.. so I would like to keep the car from ripping itself apart (I do plan to make several hard launches.. from stoplights... on less than drag strip quality roads ... so some vibration dampening would be nice.
The only company that I know that makes poly mounts for my car is Mugen.. and they are actually made from Delrin.. which lasts a little longer but isn't as tough as polyurathane. anyone know of someone who makes motor mounts for the EW4 stock application of my first gen CRX?
i have motormount inserts from polyurethane and in the
beginning the vibrations in the dash were horrible
however i did notice the my car shifted trough the gears
alot easier! Also the car launched alot better.
so i didn't want to take them out. so i only removed the inserts at the timmingbelt side of the engine, and WOW! vibrations were
almost gone , now it's only vibrating in the dash from 1700 to
2400 rpm. and it minimal. i got the last vibrations out by putting
rubber bumpers(from laptops) inbetween all the plastic to plastic parts of the dashboard& console.
I took me awhile to get it right but in the end it was all
worth it.
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I was looking for maybe a little more torque to the wheels that might be lost in the movement of the motor. But this car is a street driven monster, not a drag car.. so I would like to keep the car from ripping itself apart (I do plan to make several hard launches.. from stoplights... on less than drag strip quality roads ... so some vibration dampening would be nice.
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