When the cars not on, I can shift freely without problems. I can also push the clutch in and same situation. When I start the car cold, I can shift untill about after it warms up. Once its warm, I set it in nutural, and try to go into any gear and it is harder than hell! I can't even force it in. Whats the problem? The tranny has fluid in it. I warmed it up, turned it off, and put some fluid into it until it poored out. Still happens. Any help?
Case 2.
My timing is off. When I put my timing belt on, i set the crank to TDC. set the cam gear to the correct position (up facing up and the side marks matching with the head), put the belt on, put the tensioner on, and bolted it down. When I set up the timing gun, I checked timing (#1 spark plug)and moved it all the way advanced and its on the 18 (farthest away, White) mark. I set the idle screw all the way in also and it idles at 1k. Before, the car ran fine, idled at 750ish and I had leway to move the timing past 18 lower it. Now I can't get passed 18 degrees. What is my problem? I'm going to check again tomarrow moring and see if the crank and cam gear are set at tdc.
Any solutions? These problems never happened before.
Thanks,
Ulti~
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No help from this place... i figured out case 1 and got it fixed. Case 2 is a little better but still idles high, anyone know how to lower it? its at around 1250 now.
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Yes it is a weird issue. The shifter fork was out of spec. I adjusted it to spec via clutch cable nut and vowalla... Warm, it shifts. Its weird tho, i only adjusted it very little and it works like it was new.
I'm going t ocheck tomarrow and see what other people say. I don't think i have a throttle cable issue but i'll check it out. I put the cable within specs so i'll see. Just need to measure deflection. Thanks! finally someone loving from SHO.
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Stock SI. The timing was off but its on now and the idle is still high, at around 1500 cold start. Warm its like 1250 and it should be down to 750.
the reason I asked was that you said you set the camshaft side marks even with the head with the arrow up - on the Si, the marks are not even with the head - you use the 3rd mark that is at about 7 o'clock and line it up with the mark on the cover behind the gear
Mods: Ls/Vtec, MasterPower Turbo, Tial stuff...etc...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlicrx
the reason I asked was that you said you set the camshaft side marks even with the head with the arrow up - on the Si, the marks are not even with the head - you use the 3rd mark that is at about 7 o'clock and line it up with the mark on the cover behind the gear
Exactly right. I have had to redo the timing on my crx like that a couple of times, mostly because the crank would move a little bit when i was tightening the tensioner. I stick a screwdriver between the flywheel and trans bellhousing to stop the crank from moving now whenever i replace a timing belt.
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93 Civc Dx Coupe - D16Z6-Turbo! 13.2@105 stock internals.
I Tune and Chip OBD1 Ecus Too
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jlicrx: What? I set the timing twice. I tried it once like the SI is suppost to be set up. 7 oclock mark on the cam gear lined up with mark on the back of the timing belt cover.
When I set it up this way, idle was really high. I mean at 3k cold and went down to about 2500 warm.
So, I tried it the 1.5 way and set the marks at 3 and 9 on the cam gear flush with the head, well close enough as I could using a mirror and moving the cam gear. It idles lower, at about 2k cold and 1500 warm.
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jlicrx: What? I set the timing twice. I tried it once like the SI is suppost to be set up. 7 oclock mark on the cam gear lined up with mark on the back of the timing belt cover.
When I set it up this way, idle was really high. I mean at 3k cold and went down to about 2500 warm.
So, I tried it the 1.5 way and set the marks at 3 and 9 on the cam gear flush with the head, well close enough as I could using a mirror and moving the cam gear. It idles lower, at about 2k cold and 1500 warm.
high idle usually means vacuum leak - could also be throttle cable adjustment or dashpot not working right
dashpot... hrmmm I don't know how that could be the problem. Its only a spring loaded rubber diaphram. I'll double check it again. I'v done the throttle cable thing 3 times already. I'll check for vac leaks again.
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alright, there arn't any vac leaks. Anyone else with some bright ideas? Some one mentioned covering the TB hole (on side wall) and the idle lowered but then when the car was warm, i tried it again and it didn't do jack.
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ULTIMX...with CASE 1 of you problem...about your car not going in to grear..
what did you do to fix that problem..i have a 89 CRX SI and im having the same problem, where the clutch wont go in to gear in any gear...and its hard as hell to go in....WHAT WAS YOUR OUT COME ........please help
thanks
sv
Adjust the clutch cable at the tranny via the plastic screw. Theres only suppost to be about 3 MM of play when u push the clutch in and let it out. If u need help on adjusting it let me know. Also, check clutch fluid
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