flat tip screwdriver
RTV High Temp Silicone(or equivilant)
STR/Golden Eagle Cam Seal
Time and Difficulty
Under an hour and anyone that has common knowledge can do this!
Before You Start:
Make sure your car has cooled down. You'll be removing the valve cover, and it isn't smart to remove it after driving for a while. But like, always, i live with adventure, and work on my car while it is smoldering hot.
Pull out your spark plug wires, and place them aside. Leave them attached to the distributer,but just move them off to the side. Unplug the connector from the alternator, and unbolt the single 10mm nut that holds the other wire on. Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the wire-loom cover to the valve cover, and place the wires aside. Remove the 8 10mm nuts that hold the valve
cover on. There is also one 10mm bolt on the side of the valve cover that is a ground wire, remove this as well. The power steering line is suck on the rear right corner, pull it off as well. Undo the pcv valve, and place aside.
Everything should be free to remove the valve cover now. Place your flat tip screwdriver between the head and valve cover, and gently pry the valve cover off. You can also use a rubber mallet, and gently tap the valve cover to loosen it up as well. Once the valve cover is loose, lift it straight up. Make sure you didn't loose any of the gaskets that go underneith the valve cover bolts.
Be very careful. Your timming belt is exposed. It is important that you don't get any oil or anything else on it, which may lead to pre-mature failure. Now is also a great time to inspect the belt for major wear. The next thing to remove is the Camshaft Holder Plate. There are 2 10mm bolts and 10 12mm bolts. It is important that you follow the loosening order. Basically work from
the outside in on loosening the bolts. Once the bolts have been from the plate, remove the end two 10mm bolts that are on the outer camshaft holder where the cam seal is.
You should be able to now remove the end camshaft holder, and the cam seal. Once you remove this, you'll be able to tell why you were leaking oil! what a piece of junk!
Take your silicone, and place a small amount all the way around the new seal. Place the seal back in the car, and the cam seal on top.
Place the camshaft plate back on top. Place the bolts back in, and follow the tightening procedure. The 12mm bolts are torqued to 19ft and the 10mm are torqued to 8.7. The end cam shaft 10mm bolts are also included in the sequence. Please refer to the diagram below. If you don't have a torque
wrench, just snug them up really well. Use your best judgement.
Scrape off any remaining sealent where the valve cover gasekt goes. Whipe all the excess oil off as well. Make sure there is a clean surface for the gasket to mate with. You dont need to get a new valve cover gasket unless yours is toasted. Once the area is clean, take your silicone, and place a dab of sealent on either side of the camshaft humps. 8 total. This is where oil likes
to leak the most, and using some sealant has always kept it from leaking for me.
Flip your valve cover over, and remove any old sealent from the gasket. Make sure you have all 4 of your spark plug o-rings as well. Sometimes they get stuck in the head. Once The gasekt is free of old sealant, whipe it off and smear a thin, fesh coat of oil all around it. This helps seal the gasket.
Place the valve cover back on the car. Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal. Just make sure you tighten the valve cover bolts to about 8ft lbs, just a litte snug. Make sure you don't have any extra bolts.
It is best to let the sealent cure for about an hour. Once it has cured, start the car up, and let it idle. Inspect the valve cover for any oil leaks, and inspect around the cam seal as well. Clean off the area around the cam seal, and inspect later on to see if your oil leakage has stopped.