most racing torque converters have stall speeds of 2000+ rpm. i know someone with one on another type of car and he wished he didnt get it. its good for racing but on the street that car feels like it has turbo lag from a start.
Mods: AEM Cold Air Intake, DC Sports ceramic coated header, Thermal R&D Classic exhaust system, PowerSlot slotted brake rotors, A'PEXi S-AFC, Goodridge G-Stop brake lines, Neuspeed Upper Strut Tie Bar, Magnecor KV85 Competition Ignition Cables, K&N
does the factory torque converter have a stall speed?
what does it feel like? does it feel like your car is in neutral until you hit your stall speed and then your converter locks up (like a neutral drop) or does it make light contact and slowly drive you forward (like slowly letting out the clutch on a manual transmission) and then you have lockup at your stall speed?
while in drive keep your foot on the brake very hard and start giving it gas, when it feels like its gonna take off thats it.
the point of a higher stall is when your at the drag track you launch at a higher rpm and closer to your powerband. like launching a manual tranny basically.
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Quote:
Originally posted by ric most racing torque converters have stall speeds of 2000+ rpm. i know someone with one on another type of car and he wished he didnt get it. its good for racing but on the street that car feels like it has turbo lag from a start.
but how would that react w/ a n/a tuned prelude?..any ideas..
Mods: AEM Cold Air Intake, DC Sports ceramic coated header, Thermal R&D Classic exhaust system, PowerSlot slotted brake rotors, A'PEXi S-AFC, Goodridge G-Stop brake lines, Neuspeed Upper Strut Tie Bar, Magnecor KV85 Competition Ignition Cables, K&N
I would still like to know what exactly it feels like. is there no contact until you hit your stall speed and then it just locks? or is there faint contact until you hit the stall speed and then you'll have full lockup?
no there is power being transfered but its the point where 100% of the power is being put into the driveline. its good for an N/A setup or a turbo setup if you plan on being at the track. it lets you launch at a higher rpm so you have more torque and HP off the line. like i said the higher the stall speed the more and more it feels like turbo lag when you drive it on the street because you obviously wouldnt be launching it everywhere. but when you are launching at the track and you are break torqueing it for your launch your rpm is higher and it effectivly eliminates turbo lag (depending on the size of the turbo of course)
Mods: AEM Cold Air Intake, DC Sports ceramic coated header, Thermal R&D Classic exhaust system, PowerSlot slotted brake rotors, A'PEXi S-AFC, Goodridge G-Stop brake lines, Neuspeed Upper Strut Tie Bar, Magnecor KV85 Competition Ignition Cables, K&N
ok. so you would have some engagement (or forward movement) until you hit the stall speed where it would lock up 100%. what would be a good stall speed that would not hurt daily driving?
Just power brake your car and you will eventually feel it. It is hard to explain but you will feel it. My car is around 2400 rpms. But I get bad 60 ft times by power braking that high. My best 60 ft times are when power braking around 2000 rpms.
Mods: AEM Cold Air Intake, DC Sports ceramic coated header, Thermal R&D Classic exhaust system, PowerSlot slotted brake rotors, A'PEXi S-AFC, Goodridge G-Stop brake lines, Neuspeed Upper Strut Tie Bar, Magnecor KV85 Competition Ignition Cables, K&N
when powerbraking on a car with a factory automatic transmission, you can feel the car wanting to pull harder and harder. this is not good at all for your car. so with an aftermarket torque converter and stall speed...you can rev to right under your stall speed without causing damage? and then launch.
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