"Should I Buy This?"/"What Do You Think About This" Thread?? - Page 16 - Honda Forum / Acura Forum

FERIO_SiR · 02-06-2006, 08:09 PM

Stage 1 - Features far more aggressive ramp rate then stock with added duration. Excellent for turbo and nitrous. Idle to 7200+ rpm. Intake Duration is 259 Degrees with .405" Of Lift Exhaust Duration is 235 Degrees with .483" Of Lift.

Stage 2 - Street/Strip with slight lope at idle due to increased primary and secondary lobes. Requires Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers kit. 900-7500+ rpm.

i would like to get 160-200 hp with: mini-me, cam & gear, i/h/e

turbo is an option...MAYBE

just street car with a little pep.

KJMagnum · 02-06-2006, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FERIO_SiR

Stage 1 - Features far more aggressive ramp rate then stock with added duration. Excellent for turbo and nitrous. Idle to 7200+ rpm. Intake Duration is 259 Degrees with .405" Of Lift Exhaust Duration is 235 Degrees with .483" Of Lift.

Stage 2 - Street/Strip with slight lope at idle due to increased primary and secondary lobes. Requires Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers kit. 900-7500+ rpm.

i would like to get 160-200 hp with: mini-me, cam & gear, i/h/e

turbo is an option...MAYBE

just street car with a little pep.

I'm no expert but here's my input. If you want 200whp you will need a LOT of work for all motor and definitely need the stage 2 (or just get boost). This requires that you build up the head and will also get a rougher ride. For a more practical street car, get the stage 1. With the stage 1, you wont get 200whp and probably not even the 160whp but it doesn't require a built head and is smoother running. Again I'm no expert, but thats what I think. Without the cam, just the basic bolt-ons engine would be around 115whp.

FERIO_SiR · 02-07-2006, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJMagnum

I'm no expert but here's my input. If you want 200whp you will need a LOT of work for all motor and definitely need the stage 2 (or just get boost). This requires that you build up the head and will also get a rougher ride. For a more practical street car, get the stage 1. With the stage 1, you wont get 200whp and probably not even the 160whp but it doesn't require a built head and is smoother running. Again I'm no expert, but thats what I think. Without the cam, just the basic bolt-ons engine would be around 115whp.

mini-me + 25
cam s1 + 10
i/h/e + 9
piggy-back ecu and tuning
-------------
= +/- 150 hp

good enough

98civcEK · 02-07-2006, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FERIO_SiR

mini-me + 25
cam s1 + 10
i/h/e + 9
piggy-back ecu and tuning
-------------
= +/- 150 hp

good enough

not whp. whp would only improve up to 130.....maybe. if you want to get 160-200 whp turbo is the fastest and most practical way (not in cost usually) to get to those numbers. all you'd need is the turbo kit and very mild tuning and that easily 160whp. getting to 200whp you'd need a cam and I/E and much better tuning.

FERIO_SiR · 02-07-2006, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98civcEK

not whp. whp would only improve up to 130.....maybe. if you want to get 160-200 whp turbo is the fastest and most practical way (not in cost usually) to get to those numbers. all you'd need is the turbo kit and very mild tuning and that easily 160whp. getting to 200whp you'd need a cam and I/E and much better tuning.

How about to 150 whp na.

98civcEK · 02-07-2006, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FERIO_SiR

How about to 150 whp na.

ok you start at about 115whp. for I/H/E you get maybe 10whp, i'm being very optimistic. so 125whp. crower stage2 cam for n/a with new springs/retainers, another 8-10whp (again very optimistic). so 132whp. cam gear with hondata s200 for non-boost apps, +5-8whp. 140whp. without upgrading psistins at this pint your not gonna get more without n2o.

so going back to the pistons, higher compression.....say 10.5:1 another 10whp after tuning with the hondata. then port and polish, bored throttle body with port matching.

after all this a lighter flywheel and better clutch will help get more power down faster.

commador · 02-07-2006, 02:55 PM

200whp NA isnt really that hard with a bseries these days.

You guys and your d's.....hehehe...

NationsMostWanted · 02-07-2006, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by commador

200whp NA isnt really that hard with a bseries these days.

You guys and your d's.....hehehe...

i was really disappointed with my setup getting only 205 at the wheels on the bottle and 165 NA

FERIO_SiR · 02-07-2006, 03:39 PM

i want to keep my 97 d is cause it only has 31k miles on it.

KJMagnum · 02-07-2006, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FERIO_SiR

i want to keep my 97 d is cause it only has 31k miles on it.

Just keep in mind that it has under 100whp so getting to even 150whp will be a lot of work for all motor. It might be cheaper to swap in a b18. It took me some time to realize that. I want to keep my D also, but the only way to really make power is boost.

gurusan · 02-07-2006, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJMagnum

Just keep in mind that it has under 100whp so getting to even 150whp will be a lot of work for all motor. It might be cheaper to swap in a b18. It took me some time to realize that. I want to keep my D also, but the only way to really make power is boost.

werd. bizzoooooosst!

FERIO_SiR · 02-07-2006, 06:56 PM

Looked at some #'s of non-turbo d's. High 14's at best is not going to do it for me.

Will this apexi kit fit on my d16y7?

The kit is for the EG D16Z6

KJMagnum · 02-07-2006, 07:09 PM

The main things for your car are the intake manifold and exhaust manifold. your throttle body is vertically mounted so it doesnt fit with any turbos I've seen. Also your exhaust manifold has the cat built in so if you get a turbo kit you still wont be smog legal. If those 2 things dont matter then you should be ok.

PS: that link didnt work but if you get a kit, I think edelbrock is the best or maybe a greddy (both are legal).