*Updated*Car is running like shit (rich at times for no reason) HELP!

[Johnny Tran]

I am having some issues with my car and I can't seem to figure out what the problem is. Please read both of the posts I made yesterday and today belowe and see if you can figure out what the problem could be?? I'm lost!


11-1-04

This just started happening yesterday. The car will run fine in the higher rpm range (3500+) but between 2-3k the car "feels" like its running extremely rich (the car sputters really bad and you can smell gas) Its really weird because it doesnt do it all the time, but when it does it sputters really bad until you get past 3-3500 rpm, then its runs ok???? The only issue the car has is that I DESTROYED my header on a man hole and its dented pretty badly. However, its been like that for about 1-2 months and the car has never done this. The only other thing I can think of is that it started after I got gas yesterday, but if it were bad gas, why would it only act like that in the low rpms?
My mods are Skunk2 stage 1 cams, gears, springs, etc...I'm running a Kenji chipped p-28 tuned by p1auto with a vafc. The car has been tuned and running excelent for over a year now, and non of the settings have been touched, so this is weirding me out.

I have not had a chance to pull any plugs, I also just ordered a new header from p1 and plan to have him look at the car after I put it on and put it on the dyno if necessesary to figure out the problem.

From what I explained can any of you guys think of what it could be?

Cliffs notes:

-Car running like its running really rich (sputtering badly) from 2-3500k rpm (but runs ok in the higher revs)

-only known mechanical issue is a dented (badly) header but its been like that for almost 2 months with no issues besides the car having lost some top end power)

-mods are stage 1 cams, p-28 chipped tuned with vafc (been tuned for over a year no problems)

Edit: Fuel preasure looks good according to the trusty gauge under the hood

11-2-04

The problem seems to be getting worse and worse and it really makes no sense to me. 7/10 times the car starts normally and runs normal until about 10 minutes of driving. After that the car starts to idle like shit and you can smell gas. If you try to drive it from a stop the car shutters like a choked out lawn mower until you get above ~3500 rpm, then it pulls out of it. I know the header is crushed badly (just ordered the new one) but its been like that for ~2 months. If its the 02 then why am I not throwing a code and why is it only doing it sometimes and in the lower rpms?

Im gonna replace the plugs, but again even if the plugs are fouled, why would the car not act like this all the time and only when it's been running for some time?

Basically the car is in some way "flooding" itself out or out of know where running very rich (i think) in the lower rpms and idle after its been running for about 10 minutes)

Someone here please add something cause I'm lost

Just pulled the plugs:

[NationsMostWanted]

check ur other post in civic tech.

try this bro if the sputter lasts long enough when sputtering pull ur plugs again and see if they are rich. im thinking at low RPMS ur cars misfiring but under a bigger load and higher RPM the misfire isnt as noticeable ot there.

check ur cap wire and rotor.

i wouldnt mind having ur o2 sensor checked

[ex2si98]

my buddies car did this...a while ago, running all crazy liek it was running rich, ran the tank out, put in new gas started running fine again...

[jon]

Originally Posted by ex2si98

my buddies car did this...a while ago, running all crazy liek it was running rich, ran the tank out, put in new gas started running fine again...

same thing with my buddies dads rig

[05 tC]

Originally Posted by asianpride559

i wouldnt mind having ur o2 sensor checked

Agreed. It really does sound like a O2 problem. Runs bad in closed loop mode, but good in open loop mode.

Mike, did Kenji or p1auto disable any of the CEL codes? I know COBB can remap a Subaru ECU and disable any/all of the CEL codes. Is it possible some of yours were disabled? It would explain why you aren't getting a CEL now.

[Kike_Si]

I would put the stock ECU back just to see what the CELs are and then go from there.

[Johnny Tran]

Thanks for all the help guys...

I'm also leaning towards a bad 02 sensor just for the fact that if it were anything else the car would most likely run like shit all the time. The only logical explanation is that the car runs ok in closed loop mode, then after its open, is when it starts to act up.

yeah I'm thinking that Kenji most likely did disable the cel codes. Does that mean though that I can't have the 02 tested via a diag test?? I'm thinking about just buying a new 02 sensor because like I said after 10 minutes the car is very hard to drive and I dont want to mess it up even more.

I will let you guys know what happens, and sorry for double posting this, I just wanted to make sure everyone saw it so I could get your opinions asap!

Thanks again.

[40_Below]

My Civic did the EXACT same thing, turned out to be the coil.
If you take it out you can have it tested.

[Johnny Tran]

Originally Posted by Evolution_Tuned

My Civic did the EXACT same thing, turned out to be the coil.
If you take it out you can have it tested.

what coil?? What was your car doing and what did you ebd up having to replace??

[97CIVICoupe]

Originally Posted by Johnny Tran

what coil?? What was your car doing and what did you ebd up having to replace??

Ignition coil, where your distributor's high voltage spark is generated.

[40_Below]

Yes it was the ignition coil in the dizzy, and I bought a new one at checker for like $35. My car only had about 60k on it at the time too.

[Johnny Tran]

What exactly was the car doing/acting?

[40_Below]

In a nutshell it was missing at low RPMs

Don't you have a friend with an SI? Take his dist. off and put it on yours too see if that fixes the prob.

[93h22ajspec]

yeah it was my dizzy too on my 1995 gsr hatch it started sputtering and it went out... i got one for $200 buck though brand new id check the dizzy and possibly but check the cap and rotor first