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Re: Questions on box for sub, wiring and installation
I had all your questions answered then my computer screwed up.
1)Use 3/4" MDF to make the subbox. MDF is very easy to work with and is rigid enough to resist flexing under pressure.
2)Sealed will give you a tighter bass, whereas ported will give you a higher SPL (sound pressure level). Basically ported will be louder than sealed. It all depends on what type of music you like to listen to, and what you are looking for out of you system
3)To run it like the guy suggested, you would bridge two of the four channels to run the subwoofer(s). Normally it is Left + and Right -, but consult your amplifier manual just to make sure. There is most likely a switch on the amplifier as well to run the amplifier bridged.(again, consult your manual).
For the interior speakers, you would configure your speakers in one of two ways.
Both Left Speakers in Parallel connected to the LEFT +/- inputs, and Right Speakers in Parallel connected to the RIGHT +/- inputs,
or
Both Front Speakers in Parallel connected to the LEFT +/- inputs, and Both Rear Speakers in Parallel connected to the RIGHT +/- inputs.
4)Usually firing the port or the subs towards the rear gives the best output. This essentially corner loads the subwoofer, and makes the subwoofer seem louder. You may have to play with the orientation til you find what works
5)Wiring is gonna cost you about that. Make sure that you buy decent RCA cables, or you will regret it. Cheap RCA's usually allow noise into the system (i.e alternator whine). I am not saying buy the most expensive stuff you can get, but don't buy the cheapest either. Go to your local car audio shop, they should be more than happy to help you out.
Hope this helps
1fast2dr
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1fast2dr
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2000 Civic SE Coupe
AEM CAI
AEM Pulleys
APEX 1.5 Drop
GrillCraft Grill
15% Tint
Large Sound System...
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