I just swapped in an ls/vtec into my 91 hatchback and the engine is backfiring through the throttle body. The engine has not been started yet because of bugs. Now that the bugs are gone the engine backfires during cranking and has never started or idled. The engine is a 90 b16a1 head on a 91 b18a1 block, i'm using stock cams/gears, pw0 ecu and i did the dualpoint-to-multipoint wiring conversion myself. Please give me any ideas as to why the engine is backfiring, I'm going to double check the valve timing again tomarrow.
I just swapped in an ls/vtec into my 91 hatchback and the engine is backfiring through the throttle body. The engine has not been started yet because of bugs. Now that the bugs are gone the engine backfires during cranking and has never started or idled. The engine is a 90 b16a1 head on a 91 b18a1 block, i'm using stock cams/gears, pw0 ecu and i did the dualpoint-to-multipoint wiring conversion myself. Please give me any ideas as to why the engine is backfiring, I'm going to double check the valve timing again tomarrow.
The valve timing was a little off (about tweo teeth) and now its dead nuts, but the engine will still not start. With the distributor rotated towars the back of the car it backfires during cranking and with the distributor rotated towards the front of the car it'll crank with no backfiring , but it will not start. Could I have messed up on cylinder sensor wiring, or might it be something else. Please, any info is greatly appreicated.
There are no codes. The engine is definetly dead nuts for valve timing. While setting the timing I removed #1 spark plug and stuck a long 1/4" extention down the plug hole. As I rotated to TDC the white mark on the pulley lined up with the TDC mark on the Timing belt cover. Then I rotated the cams so that the two lines at 3 and 9 o'clock were facing each other and checked that the rotor on the distributor was facing the #1 position ( lower left if veiwed from the plug wire side of the distributor if I'm wrong please correct), threw the belt on, tensioned it, and cranked it, and nothing, backfire city. So I took the distributor off and checked the sensors through there respected pins to make sure they were producing a signal voltage and they are. It's about 10 a.m. in boston right now and the last thing I can think of is that I placed the plug wires on the cap wrong. I'm going to reinstall the distributor and check the plug wire locations. If you guys have any other ideas please drop a line.
ok, so I did connect the plug wires wrong. The engine starts and runs, but....when I take the key out of the ignition the engine still runs. Only when i pull the fuel pump does the engine shut off. I think it has something to do with the wire I used to run 12v to the engine wiring harness. If any one has done a dual-point to multipoint wiring conversion where did get and put your 12v supply to the engine wiring harness. Please drop a line.
U can take the radio wire 12v. The last modification is VERY important! You must reverse the green/white and yellow/white wires on the Throttle Position Sensor, because the DX’s turns backwards.
Here is a link: http://www.westworld.com/~joe_r/4gdxtozc.html
Are you using "Same OBD distributor and ECU?" OBD1 with OBD1, OBD2 with OBD2, etc etc.? cause that can cause problems if you don't...take into account other opinions as well though, good luck.
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93 Si - 13.7@101 all motor/street tires stock head bishes...
Mods: Swapped B18C, intake,full bolt on hayame exhaust,lowered on tokico blue shocks with maxspeed coilovers, with mugen rims, more mods to come
it sounds like you have timing off 180 degrees
__________________ Click here to see pics of my hatch [/center] 1995 honda civic hatchback black with /Rota Circuit 8's /swaped B18C-with LSD/exedy clutch kit with 8lb flywheel/With hayame full exhaust-with high flow cat /and intake /lowerd on tokico blue shocks /with maxspeed coilovers
I got the engine running the plug wires at the distributor were not plugged onto the proper posts. The engine now has a new proplem, with the engine running I can take the key out of the ignition and it will still run. Only until I disconnect the fuel pump does the engine shut off. It is not desieling because the car is acting like the ignition is in the on position. I know it has something to do with the way a supplied 12v to the wiring harness. At the left shock tower I spliced in a wire that had 12v with the ignition in the on position to the yel/blk wire that runs to the fuel injectors. I wanted to know what you guys are doing for the 12v supply on a dualpoint-to-multipoint wiring conversion. 98civic thanks for the info on the wiring conversion my civic never had a radio in it but it is wired to accept one, do you think it will still have the 12v line going to it?
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