Mods: B16a swap, MSD SCI-L, DC Sport headers, 2 1/4" Custom Exhaust, J1 Tranny, Unothrodox Light weight Flywheel, CM Stage 3
Can't Start...No Spark
I did a B16a w/J1 tranny, PR3 ECU swap into an '88 civic H/B STD. When I tried to start the engine, I realized that I was not getting any spark. So I rebuilt the distributor, but still no spark, then I took one off a car that I did a swap earlier...still got no spark.
I recheck the DX to SiR wiring, looks fine. I changed the under dash fuse box, pulled the dash and check the wires, looked fine,
I notice that the distributor would get hot (heat) whenever try to start it. And the ECU was coding, but I was using a PM6 to see if I was getting park, because I didn't want to burn my PR3.
What could possible be wrong?
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There are # things to a car; Fast, Reliable, and Cheap!
If it's Cheap and Fast, then it's not Reliable.
If it's Cheap and Reliable, then it's not Fast.
If it's Fast and Reliable, then you can bet it's not Cheap!
sounds like it might be a resistance problem if your distributor is getting hot and if you switched it out, thats obviously not the problem but check the plugs because if they are fouled or in someway damaged it can change the voltage and or amperage of the wires, check the coil too and see if there maybe be a gap somewhere in there that the electricity may be jumping, those would be my best guesses for now
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A.K.A. civicsifanatic
If it ain't Ford, it AIN'T JDMitis - a severe immunological disorder uncurable with modern medicine; resulting in obscene amounts of money being spent on factory japanese parts that only others who had increased susceptibility to this opportunistic infection can notice the differences.
Mods: B16a swap, MSD SCI-L, DC Sport headers, 2 1/4" Custom Exhaust, J1 Tranny, Unothrodox Light weight Flywheel, CM Stage 3
I tried new plug wires and new plugs (NGK Iridium).
I notice that when I disconnect the ECU ground wires (on the thermostat housing), the wire that carry current to the distributor has about 10- 12 volts. But whenever the ground is connected , there is almost no current in the wires. Also, the ECU that I was using (PM6) got really hot, to the point that it was smoking.
Please, anyone who has an idea I'll welcome it. :
__________________
There are # things to a car; Fast, Reliable, and Cheap!
If it's Cheap and Fast, then it's not Reliable.
If it's Cheap and Reliable, then it's not Fast.
If it's Fast and Reliable, then you can bet it's not Cheap!
yeah if you are having problems w/ your ECU then its not just limited to the ignition system, I agree w/ crXTC check the main relay for now, if that doesn't work I have a couple other ideas...
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A.K.A. civicsifanatic
If it ain't Ford, it AIN'T JDMitis - a severe immunological disorder uncurable with modern medicine; resulting in obscene amounts of money being spent on factory japanese parts that only others who had increased susceptibility to this opportunistic infection can notice the differences.
Mods: B16a swap, MSD SCI-L, DC Sport headers, 2 1/4" Custom Exhaust, J1 Tranny, Unothrodox Light weight Flywheel, CM Stage 3
I've already check the main relay. I just found out today, that my injectors are not working either. The fuel pressure is there, but when I try to start it they don't shot any gas.
So this is the problem, no spark and no gas.
Here is what I did already:
1. rebuilding distridutor
2. tried two other ECU
3. changed main relay
4. changed under dah fuse box
5. changed distributor (from a car that is runing)
6. double, tripple, quadurple check DX to SiR wiring
7. Tried two other engine bay harness
8. changed injector resistor box
9. check compression
Here is what I have not done:
1. changed under dash wire harness
2. BURN THE CAR!!
3. GIVE UP ON HONDA AND MOVE ON...
I've done this swap many time, never met a problem like this. Seem like every time I do a swap for myself...it gones wrong.
I love Honda, that is the only make of cars I've ever owned...
__________________
There are # things to a car; Fast, Reliable, and Cheap!
If it's Cheap and Fast, then it's not Reliable.
If it's Cheap and Reliable, then it's not Fast.
If it's Fast and Reliable, then you can bet it's not Cheap!
well I don't think you should give up on honda, you should never give up on honda, but maybe you're gonna have to break down and take it to a mechanic or even the dreaded honda dealer
__________________
A.K.A. civicsifanatic
If it ain't Ford, it AIN'T JDMitis - a severe immunological disorder uncurable with modern medicine; resulting in obscene amounts of money being spent on factory japanese parts that only others who had increased susceptibility to this opportunistic infection can notice the differences.
Originally posted by B16a_15psi I did a B16a w/J1 tranny, PR3 ECU swap into an '88 civic H/B STD. When I tried to start the engine, I realized that I was not getting any spark. So I rebuilt the distributor, but still no spark, then I took one off a car that I did a swap earlier...still got no spark.
I recheck the DX to SiR wiring, looks fine. I changed the under dash fuse box, pulled the dash and check the wires, looked fine,
I notice that the distributor would get hot (heat) whenever try to start it. And the ECU was coding, but I was using a PM6 to see if I was getting park, because I didn't want to burn my PR3.
What could possible be wrong?
hmm...i dunno if this will help...but i had a problem like this b4...
mines a 95 civic, an b4 i swapped out my engine to b16 i had sumtin like this... i pulled one of the fuses that is required to spark and start the starter. i forgot what it was called.
when i took it to the machanic.. they said... i have power going to the ecu.. but none to the spark plugz.
sounds liek the same prob u have as mine .. i think it was kalled
s.t.s? i dunno for a 95 civic it was under the SRS fuse..
tooo lazy too look =)
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B16A w/ Custom Made Mount Kit
K&N Intake w/custom cold air intake pipe
Jizzer Rims
JVC Head - Interfire Amp -JBL 12" Subs
Jizzer Rotors, Axles, H22a fuel Jectors
Knock off Exaust =) w/custom 2.25 piping
Knock off Heads
Mods: B16a swap, MSD SCI-L, DC Sport headers, 2 1/4" Custom Exhaust, J1 Tranny, Unothrodox Light weight Flywheel, CM Stage 3
You guys are great. better than any other club online. But I am the person that most people turn to in my area when they have problems wiith there honda. Now I'm having the weirdest electrical problem. I'll survive.
I'll let you guys know whats up when I change the harnes or maybe I'll rewire the entire car.
__________________
There are # things to a car; Fast, Reliable, and Cheap!
If it's Cheap and Fast, then it's not Reliable.
If it's Cheap and Reliable, then it's not Fast.
If it's Fast and Reliable, then you can bet it's not Cheap!
Mods: Click [url=http://www.cardomain.com/id/fastwrx]here[/url] to see them.
I know when we swapped my b18b into my car we couldn't get it to start. It ended up that the distributor was 180 degrees off. Try swapping your plug wires on the distributor. Take the ones that are directly across from each other, and swap them. This is easier than taking the distributor apart. If that doesn't help, put them back.
Mods: B16a swap, MSD SCI-L, DC Sport headers, 2 1/4" Custom Exhaust, J1 Tranny, Unothrodox Light weight Flywheel, CM Stage 3
I changed the fuse box in the engine bay. I think the module in there was bad, because all the fuses were good.
So if you'all ever see this problem, no spark from the distributor and injectors not spraying, suggest that the person change the box or the module in it.
__________________
There are # things to a car; Fast, Reliable, and Cheap!
If it's Cheap and Fast, then it's not Reliable.
If it's Cheap and Reliable, then it's not Fast.
If it's Fast and Reliable, then you can bet it's not Cheap!