K24A2 vs. K24A4/A2 Hybrid

[rwolfarth]

Hey folks. I'm doing some pre-build research and still have a few questions. I'm going to build a FI K series for my 03 Accord. I've narrowed my choice of engines down to a K24A2 and K24A4 with an A2 head.

First of all, my goals:
-7100rpm redline
-No more than 8lbs boost
-Reliable daily driver
-250+hp, 200lb+ tq (are these too low? I am unsure of the true potential of a FI K)

Here's a list of parts that would go on/in both motors:
-Turbo kit(on down the road)
-JE 8.5:1 pistons
-Knifed and balanced crank
-440cc injectors
-Some undetermined ECU...Hondata, E-manage?
-Upgraded exhaust components

If I went with the K24A4/A2 hybrid I'd need in addition to the list above:
-K24A4 block
-K24A2 head
-K24A2 crank, rods, bearings
-KMS High-flow oil pump
-K24A2 IM(not necessary but I hear it's worth while)
-K24A4 throttle body(does this defeat the kind of drive-by-wire throttle the A2 has?)

I already have a K24A2 head, and I can get an A4 motor for around $1000. Which route would be cheaper? I've only begun to compare prices and brands, but it seems like the hybrid would be cheaper than buying a $3000 A2 and changing pistons. Are there any complications that I've overlooked?

I appreciate any advice...it's always good to have your worked checked. So what do you think, ?

Thanks,
Ryan

[kommon_sense]

The ports on the k24/crv head flow very well. If going N/A, then I would definately recommend the a2 head. However for boost, you should still see great gains with a k24 head.

I would not drop the compression so low. Stay above 9:1.

Don't bother with knife edging the crank. Try to get a k24a2 crank for the full counterweights. I'm not sure how the weights are on the k24a4/1.

If you are only going for 8lbs, then really consider just keeping the internals stock. Possibly add oil squirters to the block and call it a day.

[rwolfarth]

Thanks, that takes a lot of thinking out of the equation; the full K24A2 motor is out of the picture. However, I had considered leaving the internals stock, but when I heard about the 'performance' VTEC in the A2(3 lobes per cylinder on both cams), I decided I wanted that head and its extra 600 rpms. I realize I could limit it to 6500 and still see significant gains, but I'm willing to put up with the delicate hassle of changing internals for the full 7100 red line:
-K24A2 head
-K24A4 block
-K24A2 crank and rods
-CP 9.0:1 pistons
-High flow oil pump
-Oil squirters (is there a write-up on this?)

This actually costs around $600 less than a used A2 with new pistons.

Also, how would I go about tuning? I know the new E-manage can store multiple programs, and it'd be nice(pointless?) to have a kinder fuel map stored for city/conservative driving. How much money should I allot for professional tuning?

I appreciate the help thus far. I realize I may be going off the beaten path a bit by changing so many components for only 8lbs of boost, but I want it to be reliable and run well. Any extra help would be very much appreciated.

Thanks again,
Ryan

[kommon_sense]

When you need the engine to suck air, then the 3lobe vtec is the way to go. When you go f/i and cram air down its throat, then it isn't nearly as important. Yes, you will see improved performance, but it isn't a deal breaker.

For tuning, look into k-pro. Professional tuning, I would say anywhere from $400-$800.

[rwolfarth]

So a boosted K24A4 it is. That'll save a ton of money. How fast can I safely rev with stock internals? I understand the rods in the A4 are weaker than those in the A4. Any simplier upgrades that would reap big benefits?