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Dark Samurai
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 8,931
Car:
Mods: Some random shit
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Tools required for the job:
*Helm official service manual, 2002 Edition
*3/8" Torque Wrench, should handle at least 25 N*m.
*3/8" Ratchet Wrench.
*3/8" Socket Extender, 6" Long.
*10mm Socket (3/8").
*5mm Hex Blade (Allen Key) on a 3/8" socket.
*5/8" Spark Plug tool, should have rubber grommet deep inside to hold plug tip. For 3/8" Wrench.
*19mm Box Wrench with 12 "teeth".
*Thickness gages, .008", .009", .010", .011", bent at about 90°, 1/2-3/4" from the measuring end.
*Flat blade screwdriver, medium-small.
*Pliers
*Dielectric grease.
*Anti-seize compound.
*Good lighting source.
*A couple clean shop towels.
Step-by-Step Disassembly
(1) Move hood prop rod to just inside the fender near the battery, where it supports the hood straight vertical. (Pg. 5-2)
(2) Remove the dipstick, wipe off, and set aside. (Pg. 6-28)
(3) Remove the PCV valve out of the engine valve cover, leaving hose attached. Move it to the side where it won't be in the way. (Pg. 6-28)
(4) Remove the breather hose from the front of the engine valve cover. Use pliers to squeeze the clamp release, and slide clamp to the middle of the hose. Pull on hose to slide off of the valve cover attachment point. It might be necessary to help push-off on the back of the hose with a narrow flat-blade screwdriver, with leverage against the valve cover... be careful not to scratch the valve cover. (Pg. 6-28)
(5) Using a 10mm socket on ratchet, remove the black plastic fuel rail cover (for better access to the intake valve adjusters later) by taking off two nuts (Pg. 11-86). Set the cover and nuts aside. (Do this before taking off the engine valve cover so don't risk losing the nuts in the engine)
(6) Using a 5mm hex blade on ratchet, remove the ignition coil cover by removing four socket head cap screws. (Pg. 6-28) Set cover and screws aside.
(7) Using a 10mm socket on ratchet, remove the ignition coil bolts from each coil. (Pg. 6-28) Set bolts aside.
(8) For each ignition coil, pull straight up about an inch to disconnect from spark plug and gain easy access to the connector. Squeezing the connector to release the latching mechanism, pull the connector from the coil. Continue removing the coil and set aside. Be careful not to drop or bang the coil at any time. (Pg. 6-28)
(9) Using a 5/8" spark plug socket on a 6" extension on a ratchet, remove each spark plug. Be careful to keep the extension straight at all times to avoid damaging the spark plug insulator or damaging the tip. Platinum plugs are not supposed to be re-gapped. Set the plugs aside. A convenient place to temporarily put them is back on the ends of the ignition coils.
(10) Disconnect the connector from the TDC2 sensor by squeezing the connector to release the latch. (Pg. 6-3) Leave the sensor in the valve cover.
(11) Similarly disconnect the connector from the TDC1 sensor (Pg. 6-3)
(12) Using a 10mm socket on ratchet, remove the TDC1 sensor from the engine valve cover. (Pg. 6-3) Carefully set aside the connector and bolt, and be sure to keep it clean. This sensor is removed because it gets in the way of lifting off the engine valve cover.
(13) Move the ignition/VTEC solenoid wiring harness to the exhaust side of the valve cover. Before doing so, carefully note how everything lays so you put it back properly later. Taking a picture might be a good idea.
(14) Unclip and pull forward the attachment clip on the wiring harness that runs above the firewall and behind the valve cover. Also remove the 10mm bolt that attaches the harness/heater hose bracket assembly to the firewall. Set aside this bolt. Push the wiring harness somewhat behind the valve cover.
(15) Using a 10mm socket on ratchet, remove the five bolts from the engine valve cover and set aside. (Pg. 6-29)
(16) Lift straight up and then towards the front of the car to remove the engine valve cover. Be patient, it can be done without any prying. Once it's started, It's hard to do eloquently because the firewall and other objects are very close to the valve cover. (Pg. 6-29) Set aside the valve cover on a clean surface.
Valve Adjusting
(17) Follow the valve adjusting procedure shown on pages 6-12 and 6-13.
Notes:
(A) Turn engine by putting the box-end 19 mm wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt and turning clockwise. This bolt has a pink chromate finish. (Pg. 6-5)
(B) Thickness gages need custom-bent in order to access the gap between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of the adjusting screw. Be careful not to break the gage in the process of bending.
© For the intake side, use the .008" thickness gage as a "go" gage, where the gage fits with minimal drag. Then use the .009" thickness gage as a "no go" gage, where it barely goes in the gap, or does so with a good amount of drag.
(D) For the exhaust side, use the .010" thickness gage as a "go" gage, where the gage fits with minimal drag. Then use the .011" thickness gage as a "no go" gage, where it barely goes in the gap, or does so with a good amount of drag.
(E) To adjust the valve clearance, loosen the locknut with a 10mm socket but don't turn much further. To get more clearance, turn the adjusting screw with a flat-blade screwdriver only about 1 "hour" at a time, retighten with the torque wrench to 20 N*m and re-inspect. To reduce clearance, turn clockwise 1 "hour" instead.
(F) Before moving on to the next cylinder, always double-check the locknut torque on all four adjusters. If the locknut turns during torqueing, re-inspect the clearance at that position.
Putting things back together
(18) Clean engine valve cover gasket with a clean cloth. Replace gasket if damaged. Also clean the surface it seats against on the head.
(19) Inspect inside the valve cover and across the entire exposed camshaft area for foreign material. Wipe clean as necessary. Inspect all spark plug seals for damage.
(20) Reinstall the engine valve cover, nudging wires and hoses away from the cover as it's moved into place. Using your finger, carefully nudge the spark plug seals onto the spark plug tunnels. (Pg. 6-53)
(21) Push the head cover all the way down against the head. Inspect all around that nothing has become pinched between the cover and the head.
(22) If the head cover washers pop up, push them back down into position. (Pg. 6-54)
(23) Install the five bolts finger-tight. Using a 10mm ratchet on torque wrench, follow the tightening sequence in steps as shown on page 6-54.
(24) Reinstall the wiring harness/heater hose bracket with the 10mm bolt, tighten to 12 N*m.
(25) Clip the wiring harness from step #14 back on.
(26) Move the ignition/VTEC solenoid wiring harness back into original position noted in step #13.
(27) Inspect the TDC1 sensor and O-ring for presence, cleanliness, and damage. Push the sensor into place, it clicks. Install the 10mm bolt and tighten to 12 N*m. (Pg. 6-3)
(28) Plug the connector back onto the TDC1 and TDC2 sensors. (Pg. 6-3)
(29) Inspect and Install spark plugs per page 4-19. Note: If the spark plug part number on the plug ends with "S", your car has had the TSB and should be torqued to the higher value 25 N*m. Don't go crazy with the anti-seize, only a tiny bit is needed.
(30) Using pinky finger, Spread a tiny coating of dielectric grease just inside the tip of the ignition coil where it fits onto the spark plug. Start each coil into the spark plug tunnel. Before pushing the whole way down, put the ignition wiring connector back onto the coil. (Pg. 6-54)
(31) Using a 10mm socket on torque wrench set to 12 N*m, install the ignition coil bolts on each coil (Pg. 6-54). While doing so, be sure the wiring harness is not pinched.
(32) Using a 5mm hex blade on torque wrench set to 12 N*m, install the ignition coil cover by installing the four socket head cap screws. (Pg. 6-54)
(33) Using a 10mm socket on a torque wrench set to 12 N*m, install the black plastic fuel rail cover. (Pg. 11-86) Note that the PCV valve hose goes OVER the fuel rail, so make sure it isn't under.
(34) Using pinky finger, Spread a tiny coating of dielectric grease just inside the tip of the breather hose, then install it onto the engine valve cover. Using pliers, squeeze the clamp and move it from the center of the hose, back into the original position. (Pg. 6-54) The thin coat of dielectric grease will make removal of the hose easier next time.
(35) Reinstall the dipstick, and push the PCV valve back in the grommet.
(36) Replace the prop rod to its original position.
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NOISY LIFTERS!
and my lifters are acting up....what would be the most efficient way to fix the problem???? any help would be greatly appreciated!
Linear Mode
