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Old 02-11-2008, 06:32 PM   #151 (permalink)
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Finally getting a chance to button up a few loose ends on the car. I swapped to the PRC crank pulley. I didn't know they were different when I built the motor.

The motor is using type-r pistons and cams, revving to 8500, so I figured time to get the right crank pulley and I'm using a 6-rib 52" belt. Looks like I could use a shorter belt, or it might be time to change the tensioner.

The radiator is going to the shop tomorrow to get bungs welded on for the fan switch and temp gauge.

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Old 02-11-2008, 07:09 PM   #152 (permalink)
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Doesn't the part of the pulley where the timing belt goes still have to be half the effective diameter as the diameter of the cam pulleys though? Why would the different crank pulley mean a smaller belt or new tensioner?
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Old 02-12-2008, 06:18 AM   #153 (permalink)
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not on a k-series. They have a timing chain which has a separate sprocket on the crankshaft to drive the cam gears. The crank pulley serves as a damper and drives only the accessories.

As for the tensioner. I think mine might just be worn out. It was used.
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Old 02-12-2008, 10:42 AM   #154 (permalink)
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not on a k-series. They have a timing chain which has a separate sprocket on the crankshaft to drive the cam gears. The crank pulley serves as a damper and drives only the accessories.

As for the tensioner. I think mine might just be worn out. It was used.
are those the spring loaded ones?

i've had to replace alot of those, i like the other design better
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Old 02-12-2008, 01:02 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Yes, I believe its spring loaded. Seems to do well, but I really think I just one that is a little tired plus a slightly odd sized belt.
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Old 02-17-2008, 10:15 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Ok, so knocking out some more of my to-do list and wishlist items. I finally got my radiator welded to allow me to put the thermo gauge in the top of the radiator and the fan switch in the bottom. This let me run straight hoses and get rid of the hose adapter. This works out great, because the hose adapters just don't get the job done because they force you to put both sensors in the same spot. So you have to choose. Top hose and your fan comes on way too early and the thermostat might not function properly. Bottom hose and your temp gauge in the gauge cluster will never read properly. So now I have them in the right place and the temp gauge works great

The thermo switch is 1/8th npt. A bung goes for about $3. The fan switch is 18mm x 1.5 (same as an o2 sensor). Finding an aluminum o2 sensor bung is a little harder. I found one for $5 from www.racepartsolutions.com . I got a local race shop to weld both bungs on and pressure check the radiator for $65. Considering the hose adapter costs about $35, getting these things welded onto the radiator is definately the best way to go.

I'm using a fluidyne radiator and never really looked at it all that closely. Here is a shot of the cooling fins. Notice the little louvres on each one. Thats kinda cool. Now wonder that thing cools like crazy. I wonder if the budget aluminum radiators like the mishimotos have these.



Close up on the thermo switch in place


Close up of the fan switch in place


Radiator shot with its new hardware


My old fal fan setup wasn't designed for an aftermarket radiator so I had to modify it to fit on the fluidyne and then it didn't allow good clearance for the rad hoses. So I said screw it and just bought another fan.


I was using the Autozone m248 upper rad hose, but they kept swelling and deforming. I guess I have bad luck as I went through 2 of these. So again, I said screw it and bought the napa 7940 hose. It seems to fit a hair better than the m248 did. I'm now using an ep3 upper rad hose on the lower. Fits like a glove.


I picked up some speedsource shifter bushings. I got theirs because they are brass. IIRC, brass is self-lubricating, so it should hold up better than some of the other bushings offered on the market which are just made of aluminum.


Old bushings


New bushings in place. Pretty easy to install. These things really firmed up the shifting. You don't want to bang through the gears because now you don't have any slack like you had with the rubber bushings. However you have a *VERY* nice positive feel when it goes into gear now.


Old bushings. They popped out in one piece. I'll pop them back in if I ever have any issues with the speedsource bushings.


When the car got its track debut, I had a hard time hitting 5th as it seemed like just a really long throw to get there. Not good when you are trying to pass someone, shift, etc. at the same time. So I picked up the comptech short shift kit. Not installed yet, but should be soon.
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Old 03-07-2008, 09:32 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Finally got off my butt and installed the comptech short shifter. I gotta say I love this thing. Factor in the speedsource shifter bushings and I have a very nice positive feel when shifting. It is very firm, but you can easily feel when the gear is engaged, so it takes very little effort to shift. No banging through the gears. Just a firm push/pull and you get a nice positive click.

This kit also removed quite a bit of the front/back and side/side slop that was in the shifter.

Only one more shift/tranny upgrade planned. I'm running the whitecap honda mtf. After 1 day at the track, it smelled a little burned/old. It got the job done, but I wasn't exactly blown away by it. I used Redline mt90 in my old d16y8 tranny with great success (>150k miles, >60k with redline and it shifted like butter). I've decided to try something new and ordered some Amsoil Synchromesh MTF. I imagine it will show up in a week or so and I'll give it a shot.

On with the pictures.

Pulled the lower console out. You can see the s2k shift knob on the drivers side floor.


Need to do some drilling to install the comptech shifter adapter. Got this whole set of titanium bits from Autozone for $9.99


Instructions don't tell you to do this, but life it much easier if you secure the adapter somehow so it doesn't flop around on you and make you mess up your hole. You have to use a 1/4" drill bit through the unoccupied hole on the adapter. Its a tight fit and a bit frustrating, but it works.


Even with a cloth around the shifter, I still ended up with a bunch of metal shavings that got in the base of the shifter. Weird... Anyways, have a magnet or a shopvac handy.


Final installed product
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:46 AM   #158 (permalink)
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Wow, this looks awesome! Too bad I'll never have the knowledge on how to do something like this
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:48 AM   #159 (permalink)
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5 yrs ago, I don't think I had ever even changed my own oil. I think I actually learned how to do a rear disc conversion before I ever learned how to change the oil. lol...

If you have a service manual and a torque wrench, you can do anything.... Or at least put it back like you found it
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:37 AM   #160 (permalink)
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5 yrs ago, I don't think I had ever even changed my own oil. I think I actually learned how to do a rear disc conversion before I ever learned how to change the oil. lol...

If you have a service manual and a torque wrench, you can do anything.... Or at least put it back like you found it
i take it you never made it to VIR this past weekend? (i dont know if there was an event or not, i just remember you saying something about the first weekend in march)

btw
did you hear they are moving the Ariel Atom facilities to VIR
i was at a car show this past weekend in richmond and they had a guy representing VIR up there with an Ariel Atom, the thing was sweet!!
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:56 AM   #161 (permalink)
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i take it you never made it to VIR this past weekend? (i dont know if there was an event or not, i just remember you saying something