Updates... Rad fan and CEL issues were due to the C101 connector being unplugged. I don't know how that happened. I guess I did it when I was trying to clean up wiring.
I found the bogging issue that I was having when I gave it gas and then let off to have it return to idle. The fuel maps had the a/f @ 13:1. When i ran the ecu in open loop, it would die everytime. I reduced the fuel below 2k rpms by 5%, and now a/f is a steady 14.5:1 at idle and it doesn't stumble when I take my foot out of it. I was using the k20a basemap that came with the k-pro.
There is still more work to do, but its pretty much small stuff that I can do as time allows.
Now for the pics.
I forgot to take pics of the p/s cooler install when the bumper cover was off, so these are afterthoughts
Simple FAL cooler. A cooler is basically mandatory if you want to run p/s with a k-swap.
You can see that I mounted the cooler on the center post that the horn is mounted too. There are already 3 holes there. I just drilled the 4th on the top right corner to mount the cooler. Be sure to put a block of wood on the backside, otherwise when the drill bit breaks though its going right through the radiator.
This is where I mounted the reservoir. You can see the big hose going to the inlet to the pump. The bottom hose goes down through the fender cover/wheel well liner to meet up with the p/s cooler. It fits almost perfectly. I would like to get a bracket to raise the p/s reservoir up higher and move it back a little. I have to keep the reservoir nearly completely full to keep fluid in the big line. Otherwise the pump squeals on startup until its full of fluid. Not a big deal. I'll take care of this properly at some point, but its fine for now.
You can see my modified p/s pump inlet here w/button head screw. This is the stock fitting from my d-series pump and I hacked it to make the mounting flange thinner. I gained about 1/4" of clearance doing this. Doesn't sound like much, but it was the difference between hood hitting, and not hitting...
Be sure to use the bracket that mounts the p/s line to the valve cover to relieve stress on the pump fitting. I had to cut the backside of the bracket and bend it downward to get better hood clearance.
Updated engine bay shot.
I removed the radiator hose insert from the top hose, so got a new hose from autozone. Part #m248.
I relocated the hose insert to the lower hose. The fan switch *MUST* be near the thermostat. The top rad hose is hotter than the lower hose. If the fan switch is in the top hose, the rad fan comes on prematurely and it takes much longer for the thermostat to open (if it ever opens at all).
Here is my homemade intake. Autozone sells this build your own intake piping. You just buy the pieces you need and stack them kinda like legos. I bought a 6" straight, and a 45deg bend. They are 3". I bought a 3", 8" wide foam air filter from
www.unifilter.com along with their foam prefilter. Unfortunately the uni-filters do not come pre-oiled, so you have to buy the oil/cleaning kit as well. Foam filter filter great and do a better job at filtering than filters like a k&n. I bought a 3" to 2.75" silicon transition coupler to fit it to the throttle body. Got it from a seller named "siliconeintakes" on ebay.
Pic with air intake in place. Notice the black wire running along the intake. That is my IAT sensor. I just tucked it under the big foam pre-filter, so it is directly next to the filter.
Another shot.
Time to clean up those wires. I mounted k-pro in the factory ecu spot.
Much better. The wires are high enough up that a passenger shouldn't be able to interfere with them. Notice the zip-tie between the blue and green connector. See the little white/blue label on the wire above the ecu. That is the charge light for the hybrid harness. Unfortunately hybrid cuts this wire too short, so I had to lengthen it. No biggie, but if they added another 3-4 in of wire, it would have been perfect.
Same as last pic, just further back. I still need to route the o2 sensor wires, and mount the o2 fuel relay (blue wires). Simple enough.
Time for more hacking on the hood. The valve cover is rubbing.
Valve cover shot. This is the front corner near the p/s pump.
Be sure to wear proper safety gear. The dremel gets hot, so gloves are good. I also don't want my bare skin that close to the flying metal fragments and sparks. Glasses or goggles are a must. I like the glasses because they don't fog up as much as goggles. And a mask. Sometimes the dust is really fine and you don't want to breath that stuff in. I had sinus surgery a few months back, last thing I want is an infection
they lok pretty nice but im stil split on d2, omni, or pic
I'll have to look for you around here when you get it running right.
Traction was becoming an issue with the d16. Now with a bigger motor and stiffer suspension, I think that I'm really going to have to go with something a little more track oriented.
