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Old 01-05-2009, 11:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Help with 1995 Civic no spark

New to the list here.
What a great resource

1995 Honda Civic LX

Problem:

The car was running fine and then sat for 2 weeks while I was on vacation. When I returned and tried to start it would not fire. I checked a plug wire and got spark, I cracked the nut on the fuel filter and fuel seeped out. I cycled the throttle which was a little stick and cranked tried starting it with the pedal to the floor. after 10 seconds it tried to start and almost ran free with out the starter cranking and then died immediately. It acted like it was flooded. So I pulled the spark plugs, they where gas soaked so I let the cylinders air out and replaced the plugs. When I tried to start it again, It wouldn't even try to start. I replaced the very corroded cap and rotor and still nothing. When I checked for spark again nothing this time. I pulled the rotor again and checked the ignition (coil) there was 12V. The spring from the (coil) seemed to be in place (contact with the cap when installed).

I tried to check the obd1 (2 prong blue plug up under glove box). I am not sure I have the right plug. When I jumped the plug the CEL stayed solid but the SRS light was flashing a code. Did I have the right plug.

I have also seen diagrams that show a larger odb1 with multiple plugs to check for voltage for each individual component vs. the flashing CEL.

Bottom line: The car was running until it sat for 2 weeks. I am not getting spark and I was getting it before I changed the plugs. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The ECM is located under the dashboard, behind the carpet on the passenger side. The codes can be read by jumping the diagnostic connector and reading the CHECK engine light on the instrument panel (all models). 1. To view self-diagnosis information from the ECM memory, install a jumper wire into the diagnostic terminal located in the far right corner inder the dash, then turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The codes are stored in the memory of the ECM and when accessed, they blink a sequence on the CHECk light on the instument panel to relay a number or code that represents a system or componet failure. 2. The CHECK light will blink a longer blink to represent the first digit of a 2 digit number and then will blink short for the second digit (for example, 1 long blink then 6 short blinks for the code 16 [fuel injectors]). NOTE if the system has more then 1 problem, the codes will be displayed in sequence then a pause and the codes will repeat. 3. When the ECM sets a trouble code, the CHECK engine light will come on and a trouble code will be stored in the memory. The trouble code will stay in the ECM memory until the voltage to the ECM is interrupted. To clear the memory, remove the BACK-UP fuse from the relay box located in the right side of the engine compartment. Disconnecting the BACK-Up fuse also cancels the radio preset station and the clock settig. Be sure to make a note of the various radio stations that are programmed into the memory before removing the fuse.
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is the battery charged properly? Battery terminals tight? Ignition componets damp or damaged? Incorrectly gapped plugs? Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit? Loose distributor is changing ignition timing? Broken, loose, or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil. Now for it stalling: Idle speed incorrect, fuel filter clogged and\or water and impurities in the fuel system, Distributor components damp or damaged, faulty emisions system components, Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs, Faulty spark plug wires, vacuum leak in the fuel system, intake manifold or vacuum hoses, Valve clearances incorrectly set.
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Check the resistance in the spark plug leads (wires). excessive resistance will cause a dirty spark, or in extreme cases, none at all. What's the mileage on the car? what maintenance have you performed recently?
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When I turn on the ignition the CEL goes out after a few seconds. When I jump the plug and turn on the ignition the CEL stays on I found voltage at both solid. I am assuming this means that the ECU is not throwing any codes. Correct? I tried unpluging wires at the throotle body to get a CEL light but this did nothing. ??

I pulled the cap and rotor and checked for voltage at the coil. The coil has voltage at both the (+) and (-) is this right?
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Old 01-06-2009, 12:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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ok so cliffs notes.. its got spark?? its got fuel?? obviously you didnt toy with timing.... it should at least fire up for a few seconds, and/or give you a code if not id try another ECU, no matter what it doesnt seem right to me that it sat for 2 weeks and now it doesnt run...i find it hard to believe that the injectors gummed up in 2 weeks......somethings gotta be unplugged..............
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Did you piss anyone off? Try some heat, maybe someone put water in your tank. It is real weird that it won't start if all major parts are working.
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Old 01-07-2009, 04:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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maybe its the catalytic converter?
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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ok i just read your last sentence, you had spark before you changed plugs.....did you gap them correctly? are you SURE you pressed the boots on all the way? and maybe didnt rip a wire when you were removing them from the old plugs?
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I am not getting spark out of the dist cap or even from the coil. I have tested the coil and it is good. I am getting 12v to the coil. I think it is the haul sender or something else in the system that is not allowing the field to collapes and thus the coil to fire.

I have given up to the point that I want to take it to a garage. The first and last time a took a car to a garage was when I was 17. I'm 37 and feeling like a 17 year old again.
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Old 01-08-2009, 01:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Do visual inspection on the ignitor im 98% sure this is the problem... im not even sure its called the ignitor (its that piece inside the distributor cap with the small thin shiny metal strip)

-remove the distributor cap
-remove distributor rotor
-remove that black plastic cover thing
-INSPECT the ignitor for any type of thin cracks allong the side walls of it. If there are any present replace the ignitor.

when i say thin cracks, these cracks are very thin and with out inspecting it very closely you will not be able to tell that its defective. You may think that voltage is good in and out of it after your DVOM voltage checks, however these thin cracks will give you no spark. Its usually just one long thin continous crack apprx the lenth of the ignitor and will usually be found on the center/side of the ignitor running perpendicular to the layers.

If no cracks are present then i am stumped. I think 98% of the problem is the ignitor.
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