"Should I Buy This?"/"What Do You Think About This" Thread?? - Page 8 - Honda Forum / Acura Forum

jon · 03-14-2005, 10:12 PM

i would go with the 4-2-1 personaly

KJMagnum · 03-15-2005, 06:39 PM

Does anybody think that the Nology Hotwires are worth the high price? I need to replace my distributor cap, wires, and spark plugs, so I was looking around for the best performance. What are some good spark plugs too? Are there any alternative caps to the stock distributor cap other than the external coil route?

that one civic · 03-16-2005, 12:42 AM

unless you've got a highly modded motor, you really don't need anything more than OEM spec equipment in the ignition area. just go to Autozone, Kragen, or wherever and get the OEM spec wires, distributor cap, and rotor. see if you can get them with warranties too. for plugs, NGK V Powers work just fine (incidently, that's the stock plug).

that one civic · 03-16-2005, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJMagnum

Well I'm not going to be racing this car at the track. I just want to fix it up to make it more of a fun daily driver. That's why I don't want to mod the engine a lot. I'm looking more into increasing handling through shocks and strut bars. I only really want an intake for the slightly better performance that is gained while driving around on the streets at rpms under 5500. Knowing this what would you suggest for my intake? I also live in sunny san diego where it doesn't rain nearly as much as it is hot out.

sorry it took so long to get back to you. it gets pretty hot down in daygo sometimes, so the CAI might end up being a better choice for you. it'll also help your low end and mid range more, whereas the short ram will end up helping the mid range and high end more. that's probably the most frustrating thing about modding your engine, you can never have the best of both worlds with anything.

me personally, i'd get a short ram, and a heat shield for the dead of summer. another possibility is to just get a short ram, and a K&N drop in filter. that way when it gets really hot outside, you can throw your stock intake box back on (with the drop in filter in it of course), but leave the resonator box off. still one more idea (one that i've been pondering myself) is to get some flex tubing ($19.99 for a 3 foot length at Autozone!) and run it from the hole where your resonator box used to poke through the engine bay, to somewhere inside your front bumper cover. you can even get a ram air funnel (also $19.99 at Autozone i think) if you want (you don't really need it though).

just so you know, i spent the last four years in Oklahoma, where it gets hotter than shit in the summer, and with 100% humidity day after day. in the summer, my short ram (i was running an OBX at the time) really sucked, so sometimes i would just slap the stock intake back on. i was running the OEM spec paper filter though, so power wasn't much better. at night the OBX did okay, but in the heat of mid day, my acceleration was terrible.

of course, that might have also bene due to the fact that i hadn't been very good on changing my transmission fluid, or Sea Foaming my motor...

KJMagnum · 03-16-2005, 07:39 AM

Well I ended up with the cai. I actually had a friend get the v2 for me for $190 so I will be getting that soon.

KJMagnum · 03-16-2005, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by that one civic

unless you've got a highly modded motor, you really don't need anything more than OEM spec equipment in the ignition area. just go to Autozone, Kragen, or wherever and get the OEM spec wires, distributor cap, and rotor. see if you can get them with warranties too. for plugs, NGK V Powers work just fine (incidently, that's the stock plug).

I know that the oem parts will work fine, but I was wondering if there was anything to be gained by upgrading (just like the intake). I figured better sparks would make better combustion and be more efficient.

that one civic · 03-16-2005, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJMagnum

Well I ended up with the cai. I actually had a friend get the v2 for me for $190 so I will be getting that soon.

that's a damn good price for the V2, i'd be happy if i got one for that price.

oh and on the ignition stuff, i think you might gain a little power, and possibly slightly better response, but any real gains will be minimal.

KJMagnum · 03-16-2005, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by that one civic

that's a damn good price for the V2, i'd be happy if i got one for that price.

oh and on the ignition stuff, i think you might gain a little power, and possibly slightly better response, but any real gains will be minimal.

So you cant justify the extra $100 for the upgraded wires and plugs?

that one civic · 03-16-2005, 05:12 PM

not really, not unless you're going turbo next month or some other big build. if you're just doing the basics for now, stick with the OEM spec ignition stuff.

try resetting your ECU though, if you're looking for smoother operation.

KJMagnum · 03-16-2005, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by that one civic

try resetting your ECU though, if you're looking for smoother operation.

Leaving the battery disconnected would accomplish this right? Why would reseting the ecu make it smoother?

that one civic · 03-16-2005, 11:08 PM

yeah, disconnect the negative terminal for about 3 minutes, then plug it back in and start the car. let it sit there and idle for about 5 minutes, DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. doing so will throw the settings off, and you'll have to start all over.

resetting the ECU after mods is important because any breathing mods will change the airflow ratio, which will cause the ECU to run the fuel system a little wierd. if you reset the ECU though, it will compensate for the increased flow (IE: more fuel), and this should help give your car return to more normal behavior.

it probably won't be a real discernable difference, but it does help.

Masterave · 03-31-2005, 05:14 PM

I thought you had to disconnect something in your fuse box too...leastways i remember doing that aways back. perhaps not though...

Masterave · 03-31-2005, 05:23 PM

I've been debating whether or not to buy the Nuespeed front strut bar, I live on very curvy roads and think it will make a big difference. My sister had a Matrix or ractive, i can't remember, but she said it made a noticable difference. my question is, is there a big difference between a $60 ractive strut bar and a $110 Nuespeed? my gut says go with Nuespeed just because i hate any and all crap on a car, but what do you guys think? least it's not APC...gag.

KJMagnum · 04-03-2005, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Masterave

I've been debating whether or not to buy the Nuespeed front strut bar, I live on very curvy roads and think it will make a big difference. My sister had a Matrix or ractive, i can't remember, but she said it made a noticable difference. my question is, is there a big difference between a $60 ractive strut bar and a $110 Nuespeed? my gut says go with Nuespeed just because i hate any and all crap on a car, but what do you guys think? least it's not APC...gag.

I personally would get the Neuspeed strut bar. Thats the bar that I was looking at because it's reinforced and one piece. They have it at the Group5 near me for $96. I think it would be a lot better than the ractive bar.

KJMagnum · 04-14-2005, 09:44 AM

OK, its time for me to get new spark plugs. Whats a good type to buy? It seems that iridium dominates the market so it must have some quality. I dont want to spend more than around $40, but I want performance plugs. I can get a set of the Denso Iridium Power for $37. I also found NGK Iridium IX plugs for $27.50. Any other recommendations?