Strange noises...

[wolly6973]

The noise doesn't change at all except when you are going faster/slower. It is not related to engine rpm and it is still there if the car is in neutral.

I started a new job at a distribution center and I can get parts very cheap now so I think I will go ahead and change the bearings. Even if they aren't the problem, since there is almost 300k on it I wouldn't be surprised if they went sometime soon.

Other than the wheel bearings, are there any other parts that I should/need to replace with them? Any tips on replacing them?

[BD]

I'd get new axles while you are at it. ~$300 for both (remanufactured).

[HondatechAV6]

at 300k, i would definately consider replacing the lower ball joints, the wheel bearings and inspecting the upper control arm ball joints.

check the uppers by jacking up the front end(or one side at a time) and place one hand on the top of the wheel, one hand on the bottom of the wheel, and try and move the wheel inward and outward, while watching the upper control arm.

does it have play? replace it. it should have zero play, but there are degrees of play. you can have a little play and still drive, but too much play makes it unsafe to drive.


also, inspect the front springs. older civics springs break around the top or bottom of the coil.

[wolly6973]

OK so here is a parts list from what you suggested. The coils look good to me, so I will pass for now because later on I plan on upgrading my suspension(bushings, shocks, coilover) when I have some more cash.If you could check these to make sure they are what I need. I would really appreciate it.

Front Axle Left
Front Axle Right
Bearings (2x)
Upper Ball Joint (2x)
Lower Ball Joint (2x)

[HondatechAV6]

only if the upper control arm ball joints are worn silly

i'd pass on the axles if the boots aren't torn and they aren't noisy.

[wolly6973]

lol
sorry about that. I just thought I might as well go for it while I was under there.
So I should just go for the lower joints and wheel bearings for now then? Do they look right?

[HondatechAV6]

i only say the lower ball joints because i don't know the history. typically, you can use a large pair of channel locks to compress the knuckle into the ball joint to gauge how much play there is. but with 300k on original ball joints(right?) i'd just say heck with it, might as well do them.

as for the wheel bearings, i can't hear the noise, so i can only speculate. wheel bearing noise is a whurring/roaring noise that starts out low and gets louder as vehicle speed increases. you can sometimes get it to change pitch by moving the steering wheel left and right as if moving around cones on a practice course.
if you're unsure, why not take it to the dealer and have it diagnosed? it should only cost .5 to 1.0 labor...

[wolly6973]

The nearest dealer is a good 45 mins from me. So until I have a reason to go that way I think I'll pass. I don't know the exact history of the car as I have only had it a few years, but I assume that it is all original, the only work that I know of is a rebuilt engine at about 220k.

[wolly6973]

Finally had time to do some more investigating this weekend. I think it probably is the bearings. I checked into the history and found that the cv axles were replaced about a year and a half ago. I checked the play in them and it seemed fine. I did the ball joint check and they also seemed fine. I am going to try replacing the wheel bearings. I was looking in my shop manual and it says to pull the whole knuckle off, which means taking off the ball joints. Is all that really necessary or is there an easier way? Would I be able to do this myself without that tool for taking of the joints and a press?

[StreetRacin101]

If I remember from the last 96, you have to remove the knuckle to press out the bearing. Without access to a press, its not really a DIY.

[wolly6973]

Just FYI... Hopefully this weekend I will be able to get this done. Tonight I am going to take the knuckle off and get everything ready to take to the shop tomorrow to get my new bearings in. Hopefully all goes well. Thanks for all your help and I will let you know what happens.

[wolly6973]

Got my bearings pressed out finally! They were definitely shot. The guy said that it's a miracle that they hadn't completely locked up yet. So I started to put it back together thinking that the hardest part was over but no.

I cannot tighten the castle nuts on all 3 ball joints on the right side. I can put them on a little, but then it gets hard to turn and the joint starts to spin with the nut! Are my joints shot or is there a handy trick that anyone knows?
(A quick response would be appreciated so that I can get to the parts store today before they close!)

[HondatechAV6]

i know what you mean. what i would do is clean the stud and castle nut as best as you can.

i would actually tap each nut and use a die to clean the stud threads. your joints are not worn out, they just have a slightly more amount of play causing them to spin with the extra resistance of a rusty stud.

use hondalube(aka pb blaster or wd40) to lube the stud when you put the nut on. also make sure the castle nut parts of the nut aren't bent inward. this will also cause the ball joint to spin.

another thing you can try is apply pressure between the joint and the connecting part(aka use a pry bar between the knuckle and the lower control arm to apply pressure to the joint while tightening. this is best done with an impact gun.. anyway,

for the do it yourselfers the best way to fix this is to tap the nuts and clean the studs with a die.

[wolly6973]

Thanks, I'm glad I won't need to replace them. A guy at the local auto store told me that I just need to whack them with a hammer real good and that will set them back so they don't spin. Is this a good idea or not?

[HondatechAV6]

no, do not do that. you will only hurt the stud and you will be screwed then. with 300k miles, i'd expect them to be loose or even ready for replacement, but if you said they were tight before you did the work, just tap and die them.