Car: 99 Honda Accord, 94 Lincoln Mark VIII 280hp 28mpg
Mods:
What would you recommend?
I am looking to get a 94 Civic for a commuter car and have a lil bit of fun with. The one I al looking at Im told needs an engine. So I was wondering whcih engine you would put in a 94? This is a DD so I would like to keep it getting good gas mileage. Im new to the all these engines in these cars. I have a 99 Accord but my fiance drives it so it is stock. I have a 00 Mustang I have installed a 2001 Cobra motor. So cutting and splicing wires is fine. I am looking for a swap where I will not need to custome fabricate. I have no problems with adding a few wires or splicing 2 harness together, but do not want to get into welding anything. An engine with say 130-150 hp would be nice more the better of course and mpg 28ish on the highway would be nice 30 woul dbe even better.
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If a man says something in the woods and there are no women around to hear him, is he still wrong?
I would recommend a B20Z if you can find one. It lays down 146hp and 133tq stock, can be mated to a variety of transmission choices, and installs with just stock Integra engine mounts. You may be able to do the whole conversion for close to $1500 if you shop smart and depending on what transmission you choose. The Integra LS trans is the cheapest because it has longer gearing for better economy. Others such as the GSR, ITR, and B16 offer better acceleration & performance but cruise at much higher rpm on the freeway and knock you down a couple mpgs due to the short gearing.
Still, that engine is easy to install and will require hardly any wiring mods, just some simple extensions of branches mostly. And regardless of the tranny you pick it will be fun as it has great torque.
Commander Hippy Killer of the 69th Swamp Cricket Regiment.
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car. Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Horsepower is how fast you're going when you hit the wall, and torque is how far you drag the wall with you.
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Is there anyway to tell the difference from the b20b and b20z just by looking at the engine itself?
Yes, on the front side of the block (the side with the dipstick) right where the transmission bolts to the block is a little flat spot with the code machined into it. B20B1 or B20Z2 will be the codes.
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My voice will never be heard, but my presence is known. picture was taken 5/1/04 2000 Honda Civic EK MT CX vBulletin Message Sorry, you can not add yourself to your own ignore list.
Ah yes, the coveted CX...the ultimate stripped out swap-mobile. You'd want to pull the motor even if it was running perfectly...an 8-valve 70hp 1.5 liter. Power nothing, a/c optional. People looking for ultralight no-frills chassis to race in love that thing to do swaps/buildups. Why pay for a high-end model with options that you would replace or remove?
On the other hand, if you don't care for all the frills and want a good econo-commuter, it serves well for that purpose also. If the price is good and the body is nice, that's a good find.
Car: 99 Honda Accord, 94 Lincoln Mark VIII 280hp 28mpg
Mods:
I want a good commuter but I can not stand driving a car with no power. I need something that can pull out of its own way you know. The B20z sounds perfect.
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If a man says something in the woods and there are no women around to hear him, is he still wrong?
Although you would sacrifice a little bit of economy, the GSR transmission mated to the B20Z will pull plenty hard...you definitely won't be getting in anyone's way! That combo will probably pull a flat 15-sec 1/4-mile. Doesn't sound impressive, but drive a stock CX, DX or any stock Civic then drive that combo, it will beat anything that came stock in a Civic probably even the 99 Si with B16.
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