Hi folks. New to the forum and hope you don't mind assisting! My car is a 1995 Acura Integra LS with automatic transmission. The problem I'm experiencing is that the engine will require 8-10 long cranks before it starts after it sits for 1-2 hours. Nearly every day, I come home at 5PM, if I try to start the car at 7PM it will act this way. When I go to work in the morning and leave work in the afternoon it always starts right up. This is what I have done so far, along with additional information:
# Replaced main fuel relay
# Replaced fuel filter
# Replaced purge control solenoid and filter
# Checked fuses (none are blown)
# Battery voltage is ~12.4 sitting and ~14.4 running
# Idle is perfectly 750RPM at normal operating temperature (no surging, fluctuations, lag, etc)
# Replaced spark plugs, distributor cap, and rotor
# Spark plug wires have ~30,000 miles on them
# Spark plug wires measure below 1300ohms impedance
# Entire distributor assembly was replaced ~12,000 miles ago
# Cleaned battery terminals, clamps, and grounds (chassis, valve cover, radiator)
# Timing was set to stock 11 months ago
# Coil measured 0.8 and 18.2k impedance (within the acceptable range)
# CEL acts normal (comes on for two seconds then turns off)
# When the car has trouble starting, audibly the starter sounds like it's functioning properly (no clicks).
# In the past 10 months, 4 or 5 times the engine has died when I shift from Park to Reverse. It easily starts back up. I'm not sure if this is related.
When testing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) resistance at wires BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU with GROUND I'm seeing 0.0 rather than 12v battery voltage. This was measured with the coil removed. For a ground I tried all different places on the chassis, valve cover ground wire, etc. Would this indicate a faulty ICM or a bad ground? Keep in mind the car normally starts 90% of the time, but does not like starting if it has been sitting for a little while - heat related? I'm running out of ideas and this is driving me insane.
I opened up the ECM and it looks perfect. No leaking capacitors or anything. I also have high resolution ECM photos if requested.
At this point I'm not sure if it's the ICM, Ignition Switch, Starter, or something else. Thanks in advance.
Hmm..you measured the ICM for resistance but you're talking about voltage as your result? And, if I recall correctly, I think you're not supposed to measure resistance in solid-state circuitry such as modules, you'd test them for inputs and outputs only..
Hmm..you measured the ICM for resistance but you're talking about voltage as your result? And, if I recall correctly, I think you're not supposed to measure resistance in solid-state circuitry such as modules, you'd test them for inputs and outputs only..
I may have the terminology wrong. I was referring to the Ignition Coil and ICM testing I performed based on the service manual.
Ok, the resistance confused me..what you actually tested was voltage, or input on the module, so you didn't get voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and ground?
Ok, the resistance confused me..what you actually tested was voltage, or input on the module, so you didn't get voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and ground?
Yep, no voltage between BLK/YEL and Ground and between BLU/WHT and Ground. But the engine will start right up after putting everything together. I also have a Clifford alarm and one of those chips that needs to be plugged in in order for the car to start. I'm not sure if one of these is skewing the results. At the moment I'm leaning towards the starter being flaky.
When the car won't start, do you hear anything from the starter? ..Back to the ICM, according to the service literature, your module is bad, then, but you said it starts after plugging it back in..
When the car won't start, do you hear anything from the starter? ..Back to the ICM, according to the service literature, your module is bad, then, but you said it starts after plugging it back in..
When the car doesn't start everything acts like normal. It sounds like it's cranking fine but it just continues to crank and crank. If I give it gas while it cranks it seems to crank faster.
Agreed, based on that voltage test alone it seems like a bad ICM but the car will start up two minutes later when everything is back together. I'm wondering if this false reading is caused by either security systems. My digital multimeter is a radio shack cheapie (~$30) but it seems to work fine for all the other measurements.
did you try cleaning injectors? or perhaps replacing them?
I've used injector cleaner a few times but have not replaced them. My car doesn't idle rough or give symptoms of misfiring so I think the injectors are okay.
95 LS sometimes has trouble starting
Linear Mode
