Bad News/Good News, please read on..

[InsnImprtGuy]

On Monday night, i was followin' my friend as he drove another friend of ours' Mustang Corba, i was playin' catch-up after an intersection... floorin' it in 1st and 2nd, in 2nd around 7k, i heard a pop, crack and a draggin' sound and throw the car into N, the revs die down like normally would when put into N, and at around the normal idle (900-800) it just dies off, and i get out and i'm just pourin' oil like i opened the drain plug! it's just above the oil pan, wasn't sure at all what it could b, at first i thought i lost my drain plug, then got a flash light and say it, k, now what? my oil filter crack, blew, etc, nope, still there in good condition, there's oil all over my engine bay, so i wait until Tuesday evenin' when i can go w/ some friends to look at it somewhat in the air, the 1st thing we find in the light is a small piece of my block.... looks like a threw a rod through the block... bad news? mayb... then i think... B20 frankenstein?
not sure yet, i'll find out when i have it towed to a friends shop and have it actually up in the air, but i'm guessin' its the block, is so i'll do a B20 block, now do i get 11.5-12 compression for NA/AM? or do i get 10ish and decide later? or do i get 8-9ish for some forced induction?? still not sure, but i'm hopin' my insurance will pay for at least some of the "repairs"

k, later,

Jay

[InsnImprtGuy]

does no one care? or care to comment?

does anyone have any personal experience w/ B20 frankensteins? i would do a search on this forum, but for some reason it's been shut off, or just blocked from me...

[JAYMAN320]

sometimes when bad things occur, good things hapen to come around. As for you, I'd comsider you to ber very lucky. Since the engine block is about to taken out and replaced, it opens you to a place of upgrading.

Id go with the ls/vtec or b20/vtec conversion...there are countless websites with valuable information and there are many members that have built and experienced the hybrid motor.

First determine how far you want to go with your car, how much money it will take, and about the future. Then ask questions, collect the parts and go from there. Good luck

[uoboarder]

I'm with jayman on this one. I've been doing some estimates and I think that a good well built all-motor B20/VTEC will cost about 5k. It might cost a little more after install. Definitely worth it.

www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b20vtec/b20vtec.html

[InsnImprtGuy]

i don't see where u get $5k, but ok...

JAYMAN, what all do u have that got u that 13.xx on that LS/VTEC

i'm goin' w/ the LS/VTEC for 2 reasons, one, i'm gettin' an entire LS (2G) motor for $500 w/ only 17k on it and also, (two,) the B20 is only good for the added torque really, and since i'm gonna b doin' alot more road racin' and track tourin', i really don't need it

[sweet]

if you're gonna swap the block (if it's no good) then either go LS/VTEC or CRVTEC. B18B blocks are common but the B20B/Z's aren't as common so it may be difficult to find a B20 for cheap.
the cheapest i've found is $1,100 shipped for the entire B20 and the local yard doesn't usually get them so they charge $1,600 just for the motor. that's crazy!

if you're gonna spend the $$ then get a B18B block or a B18C1 block if you really want to rev high (doesn't even need the rods/pistons) in real good shape. send it out to be relseeved/overbored to 85-86mm so you get over 2L of displacement. run 11.5:1 to 12.5:1 compression custom pistons depending on N/A or N/A with a bit of N2O on the side.

also run rods, SS valves, and a matched set of cams/headwork/header/int. man./TB/Injectors and Hondata.

this setup tuned will be great, even without N2O.

[JAYMAN320]

Originally posted by InsnImprtGuy
i don't see where u get $5k, but ok...

JAYMAN, what all do u have that got u that 13.xx on that LS/VTEC

i'm goin' w/ the LS/VTEC for 2 reasons, one, i'm gettin' an entire LS (2G) motor for $500 w/ only 17k on it and also, (two,) the B20 is only good for the added torque really, and since i'm gonna b doin' alot more road racin' and track tourin', i really don't need it

I use to have my list of mods, but took it out cause it was too long...lol

mods:
-ls/vtec/ls block & JDM GS-R head(port & polished)/ITR internals/Skunk2 intake manifold/ITR throttle body w/ Stage 2 Bore/B&M Fuel Regulator/Upgraded Valvetrain/AEM Cold Air Intake/ITR Headers/Stealth Straight Pipe Exhaust w/ Stock Tip/ITR ECU/ACT stage 3 Clutch/Stage 1 Short Shifter/17" C2 Racing Harts/Skunkworks Coilovers/Tokico 5 Way Adjustable Shocks/ITR strut bar, rear strut, & tie bar(custom fitted)/Wings West Body Kit(Lip,Side Skirts,& Rear)/Titanium Racing Pedals/ITR Gun Metal Shift Knob/ITR Momo Steering Wheel/NGK Spark Plug Wires/Denso Iridium Spark Plugs/Red ITR JDM Valve Cover/Custom White & Grey Vynyl Interior/Infinity Kappa Speaker System/Pioneer Headunit/Blitz Air/Fuel/Oil Pressure Guages/Apex-i V-AFC, Brembo Dimpled & Slotted Rotors

Well there it is...

[InsnImprtGuy]

JAYMAN,

what kinda valvetrain do u have in there??

[uoboarder]

Originally posted by sweet
B18B blocks are common but the B20B/Z's aren't as common so it may be difficult to find a B20 for cheap.
the cheapest i've found is $1,100 shipped for the entire B20 and the local yard doesn't usually get them so they charge $1,600 just for the motor. that's crazy!

B20B/Z longblock $800 shipped www.hondamotorsonline.com

[JAYMAN320]

Originally posted by InsnImprtGuy
JAYMAN,

what kinda valvetrain do u have in there??

I have type r valves, retainers, and springs...upgrading to skunk2 soon

[sweet]

Originally posted by uoboarder


B20B/Z longblock $800 shipped www.hondamotorsonline.com

yeah just called them last week, and with shipping it's $1,100+.
not worth it unless you don't wanna rebuild and just slap it together.

i got a B18B block for $100, all i gotta do is rebuild it with stock or aftermarket parts OR resleeve for $800 with any size bore getting over 2L. that's the better route to go if you're performance oriented.

later