What would be the difference between a blockguard and resleeving strengthwise? I plan to run about 10 psi on a sotck b18c1 (new rods might be added). Also How do I go about instaling a block guard in a b18c1? Thanks in advance
Sleeves are the way to go if you can afford it(~750 installed @ Golden Eagle), otherwise a block guard is a good band aid but it has some inherent problems. For boosting under 10 PSI a block guard would actually hurt more than it would help. It blocks coolant flow in your engine and is only really beneficial if you are going to run 10+ PSI on your engine, otherwise its a bad idea to throw one in A block guard can cause your cylinder walls to distort because it only supports one area of the cylinder. The proper way to put a block guard in is to make sure it slides in without having to be hit with a mallet or anything, it will change shape as it gets heated and you don't want it to cause any distortion through expansion either... Another cool idea if you have a plethora of funds, sleeve it and then have Endyn post the sleeves ( they put rods that connect the sleeve to the block for added strength, and because they are slim rods they do not block the flow of coolant ). I'm sleeving my block very soon, within a week or so, at Golden Eagle Mfg. down in Cali.. PM me if you want more details on it or just wanna hear how it turns out. Good luck bro!
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Forgot the strength part - a sleeved block is waaaay stronger. Get the GE Godzilla sleeves if you wanna have really strong sleeves. For 10 PSI it is total overkill... but hey I'm doing it and I'm going to only run ~12 PSI, or whatever gets me to about 300whp
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both re-sleeving and a blockguard attempt to do the same function: allow for more piston side loading and higher cylinder pressures from boost pushing against the inside wall of the cylinder and to prevent more damage than usual when you detonate.
if you look at a Bseries block from up top (i.e from above looking down), there is a gap between the cylinder liner and the outside part of the block. It's called an open deck layout. open decks have 2 advantages over a closed solid deck: it allows the cylinder to flex when you run a low rod ratio (high piston sideloads against the wall as you rev higher) and it allows for better cooling since coolant bathes the entire outside of the cylinder sleeve.
the blockguard is an insert that is tapped or placed into that gap so that it supports the outside of the cylinder (sleeve) against the outside section of the block, at the top of the cylinder.
in the old days, this would be bad , since by inserting the blockguard, you prevented coolant flow from reaching the top of the block and cooling it off ( by picking up the heat there and then shedding that heat at the radiator). now that Nuformz learned their lesson and put in coolant ducts to allow coolant to flow to the top of the block.
the problem is the coolant flow rate was not the same as stock.
what you got with the old blockguards was engine overheating and head gasket failures due to the lack of cooling.
re-sleeving is when you take out the cylinders (called liners or sleeves) altogether and replace them with ones made out of a stronger metal (iron ductile or chromoly sleeves). they would be able to withstand both increased sideloading at higher revs in a N/A motor or more boost in an FI motor.
you typically see people re-sleeve if they want a bigger bore than stock that is > 82mm bore (stock is 81-81.25mm bore) to get more displacement or if they are running silly amounts of boost. It is much stronger than a blockguard since the entire length of the cylinder sleeve is made of that stronger metal wheres the blockguard is just a support at the top for the stock cylinder sleeve.
Etylorcen: I think you mean "posting the cylinders" not "block posting".
I only know of one shop that does that: Endyn.
they drill a hole in the side of the cylinder sleeve and place a support rod in and then weld it to the sleeve and weld the other end to outside of the block. It acts like a blockguard for cylinder wall support but doesn't obstruct coolant flow. The flow is "like stock". You still have cylinder liners or sleeves which are stock however.
if you want to see a picture of posted cylinders or resleeving then I cover these over at team - integra.net in the "Engine Package II :Swapping Parts for Power" Article.
you should also check out the overboost.com FAQ Tech article on Golden Eagle Sleeves. After you register there, you enter "Golden Eagle" in the search FAQ Tech section. There's a nice article there showing how the stock cylinder liners or sleeves are removed and replaced with their stronger iron ductile sleeves which have "tangs" that support the sleeve as well but doesn't block cooolant flow . The GE sleeves have stock coolant flow levels as well, like the posted cylinders.
I don't what Endyn charges for posting the cylinders though...do you Etylorcen?
when would resleeving be nessasary on a n/a motor?
should an ls block be resleeved if bored out to 84mm for ls/vtec?
i want to build a strong engine with very little, to no flaws.
thanks
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when you want to increase your displacement by increasing the bore and exceed 82mm bore, you must resleeve or the stock walls are too weak at that thickness and can crack or rupture under high loads.
Originally posted by WOT I think you mean "posting the cylinders" not "block posting".
Everyone I know just calls its block posting. Anyhow another user I know got the holes drills and tapped at a local machine shop for like $100. Not sure what endyn charges themselves.
Mods: B20T-VTEC pistons,rods,intake,bigTB,str fuel rail,550cc inj,hondata 4b,type-r intake cam,huge front mount,no cat,no exhaust,street legal not smog legal
if it aint broke, don't fix it.you can run 10psi on stock integra if you have a good tuner. waste your money later after it blows up, either way you are sleeving it and new piston and rods
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Originally posted by B20T if it aint broke, don't fix it.you can run 10psi on stock integra if you have a good tuner. waste your money later after it blows up, either way you are sleeving it and new piston and rods
are you speaking from experience or out of your ass?
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block guard vs resleeve
A block guard can cause your cylinder walls to distort because it only supports one area of the cylinder. The proper way to put a block guard in is to make sure it slides in without having to be hit with a mallet or anything, it will change shape as it gets heated and you don't want it to cause any distortion through expansion either... Another cool idea if you have a plethora of funds, sleeve it and then have Endyn post the sleeves ( they put rods that connect the sleeve to the block for added strength, and because they are slim rods they do not block the flow of coolant ). I'm sleeving my block very soon, within a week or so, at Golden Eagle Mfg. down in Cali.. PM me if you want more details on it or just wanna hear how it turns out. Good luck bro!
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