Alright when i installed my skunk2 intake manifold I never pushed it until a week later. After i pushed it the check engine light turned on. Nothing was wrong. When i turned it off and turned it back on the light was gone. When i pushed it again the light turned on. Light turns on everytime i hit 100mph. Maybe the pressure or something loose?
maybe it has a bad fuel mixture when you reach 100? dunno just a hunch.. did you get an aftermarket ecu? i heard that helps because of the fuel curves? other than that i have no ideas. i'm pretty sure someone else knows though...
Originally posted by Kyo Kusanagi Alright when i installed my skunk2 intake manifold I never pushed it until a week later. After i pushed it the check engine light turned on. Nothing was wrong. When i turned it off and turned it back on the light was gone. When i pushed it again the light turned on. Light turns on everytime i hit 100mph. Maybe the pressure or something loose?
If you throw a check engine light, pull the code, it will be stored by the ecu. If it's OBD-2 you need the code grabber, if it's OBD-1 just use the paperclip trick. Search for more info, I don't have time to explain.
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.
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1991 Galant VR-4
1989 Camry -daily beater
1993 Civic dx-sold
1991 Eclipse gsx-sold
If I two-step your A$$ then you know I'm serious!
yeah, reset the ecu
if that doesnt work go to autozone or whatever you auto store is and have them pull the code, they usually do it for free, then go online and find the code
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Originally posted by sassage yeah, reset the ecu
if that doesnt work go to autozone or whatever you auto store is and have them pull the code, they usually do it for free, then go online and find the code
Not if the motor's OBD-1, then he will have to use the paperclip trick and do it himself. If you are actually throwing a check engine light then it will store the code, but is it just flashing on or actually staying on?
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.
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