Cylinder Head Removal

[randyman]

CAUTION: To avoid damage, wait until the engine coolant temperature drops below 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) before removing the cylinder head.

NOTE:
* Make sure to have a HELMS manual or Acura Service Manual before doing this kind of work to your vehicle -- especially if you're a "do-it-yourselfer". This write-up is just a guide. Refer to the manual for torque specs, tools needed, and other procedures (for before, during, and after).

* Mark or label all emissions hoses, sensors, and harnesses before disconnecting them.

* Make sure to write down any radio codes, alarm, etc. before disconnecting the battery.



REMOVAL
1. Raise the car up and secure it on jackstands.

2. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

3. Drain the engine coolant.

4. Relieve the fuel pressure (see Manual). Or simply remove the cap from the gas tank. Go ahead and disconnect the fuel feed hose.


5. Remove the strut brace (if applicable), intake tube, ground cable, coolant hoses, emissions hoses, and harnesses.

6. Remove the power steering pump, but do not disconnect the hoses.

7. Remove the header.

8. Remove the intake manifold.
NOTE: This really isn't necessary. I took the head off with the IM still bolted on. But for safety purposes, especially if you're doing this alone, go ahead and take the manifold off.

9. Remove the distributor. You can also remove the VTEC solenoid if you wish.


10. Remove the valve cover.


11. Remove the camshaft holder plates, camshaft holders, and camshafts.


12. Remove the cylinder head bolts.
CAUTION: To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat until all bolts are loosened.

Once all the bolts are free, use a magnet to pull the bolts out of the bolt holes. The head is ready to come off.

13. Before taking the head off, double check for any hose/s or harness/es that are still attached to the head.

14. If everything is ok, go ahead and lift the head up and away from the block.


INSTALLATION
Install the cylinder head in the reverse order of removal.

NOTE:
* Make sure to put the 2 dowel pins onto the corners of the engine block.
* Use new gaskets.


1. Place the head gasket onto the block, making sure that it is the right way up and that it fits the dowels properly.

2. Lower the head carefully onto the block so that the holes line up with the dowel pins and press it firmly down.

3. Put all the head bolts back in and hand-tighten. Tighten the bolts in two steps after that. With a torque wrench, tighten the bolts in sequence to about 22 lb-ft. Lastly, tighten in same sequence to 63 lb-ft.


4. Replace cams, holders, IM, valve cover. Plug the hoses and harnesses back on the head (make sure you labeled them). Bolt the header back on the head.

5. Make sure everything's torqued down to spec. Double check that the hoses and harnesses are in their right places or sensors.






Disclaimer: Always refer to the Service Manual for all procedures and specs. This is just a guide. We will not be responsible for any damage/s incurred due to failure in following the instructions per the "service manual".

--- randyman.

[MN91TEG]

Just like one of those shows on TNN on Saturday morning randyman...make it sound sooo easy.

Don't forget about the timing belt and all that business.

[hondaCuRiouX]

yea wat about the timing?

[randyman]

like i said in the write-up, it's just a guide. the procedure is, of course, in the manual. the timing should be set at TDC for the no.1 piston. i could post all the procedures in the manual verbatim, but that would be in violation of the copyright law.

if more questions, feel free to ask.

[vtec1.8pwr]

with the timing belt...tdc is the white line seperate from the other lines(red) right? and u line it up on the timing cover? and with the tensioner, whats the best tool to use to tighten the spring. i was thinking about using a coat hanger and making a "u" at the tip while i loosen the tensioner bolt. what u think?

[randyman]

yes the white mark is for the TDC and u align that with the marker from the belt cover. as far as using a "coat hanger", i'm not too sure about that. just follow the rest of the procedure in ur manual.

hth.

[matt1022]

Are the head bolts Torx? (did i spell that wrong?) if so what size is it?
Isn't there a drain cap for the coolant before head removal, instead of disconnecting the lower radiator hose?
Thanks

[nof3ar]

any new link for the pics?

[Mr GSR]

Originally Posted by matt1022

Are the head bolts Torx? (did i spell that wrong?) if so what size is it?
Isn't there a drain cap for the coolant before head removal, instead of disconnecting the lower radiator hose?
Thanks

Yeah there is a petcock to let the fluid out. It goes kinda slow, but makes less mess than the removal of the lower radiator hose.

[Transparent]

this thread is more than 2 years old